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RexW

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About RexW

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    Warmwater
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  1. Also, he lists the alternatives as: Daiichi 1730, Dai-Riki 700-B, Gamakatsu C11-5L2H, and Kamasan B810 Good luck!
  2. Based on Schmidt's "Hooks for the Fly", it appears to be a Mustad model 81002BR.
  3. As I recall, that line was basically an integrated shooting head design. I would look at the 10 wt versions of Rio's Outbound Short, Orvis's Bank Shot, or similar line tapers from other manufacturers.
  4. I still like and use books, but the web can be useful too. Unlike Mike, I tie a variety of patterns and I find it much easier to use a book to search for interesting patterns to tie. I also find books to be quicker if I am trying to remember a recipe or what order to tie the materials for a pattern. I do like the web to learn new techniques. My biggest complaint is there are a lot of poor quality fly tiers out there that have posted videos that are a waste of time to watch. I usually find it quicker to just grab a book than to search for a quality video. I am no where near as organized as Flytire, but here are some of the books that I have available. However, for anyone new to fly tying. the web is wonderful. If it had been available when I started, my learning curve would have been shortened significantly and I probably would not own this many books. I'm also a casting instructor which explains all the casting books. I have found books to be an invaluable reference for an instructor because I can compare how different people have explained different concepts and techniques. I shamelessly steal and use as many good ideas as I can. Good "technical" style explanations are seldom available in online casting videos. On a side note the two books on their side in the first photo are good ones. "Fly-Casting Finesse" by Fields, is an excellent reference for anyone considering the FFI casting instructor certification exam. "The Complete Illustrated Directory of Salmon & Steelhead Flies" by Mann is a great collection of fly pattern recipes and includes many that I can't find on the internet. OK, I realize these are a couple of specialized areas, but if you are interested in them, these books are good ones on the topics.
  5. Happy Fourth of July! "American Flag" Salmon fly (more or less ) Hook: Alec Jackson size 1.5 Tag: Silver small and red silk Tail: Red Am. Pheasant crest Butt: White ostrich herl Body: Blue silk Ribs: Silver med and white silk Throat: Red and white hackle Wings: Red and white goose Cheeks: Blue guinea and Jungle fowl This one exceeded my current skill level, but I'm still proud of it and what it stands for. 🙂
  6. I may be the only person who finds this interesting, but I'm amazed at the colors and quality of today's hackle. Here's a quick comparison of a couple of Cree saddles. One was inherited from another tier. It is a Metz grade 2. I have no idea how old this saddle is, but the retail price was only $8.00. It's been a long time since since you could buy a Cree saddle for only $8. The other is a current generation Whiting Herbert Miner series Pro grade Cree saddle. I got it through the shear dumb luck of being at my local shop when it arrived. Two major differences are color and length. The colors of the new saddle are much brighter with very distinct separation of each color. By itself, the old one looks good, but along side the new one, the colors are more muted and blurred. The first photo shows the old Metz on the left and the new Whiting on the right. The barring appearance on the Whiting is much more defined. The second photo shows the length difference. The Whiting is twice the length of the older Metz. A Metz cape of similar generation (but, I think it is newer than the saddle) is also included for comparison. Anyway, I was just surprised at how much difference there is between these two saddles. Wow! The quality of the hackles that we have available today is significantly better than previous fly tier's had to work with. Life is good.
  7. "March Brown" Salmon Fly - Round two Second attempt at this pattern. I completely misjudged the body color produced by silver monkey and "rusty orange" seal fur dubbing. Fortunately, Mark had an example of the real thing. Thanks for the help! I still don't have any either of these materials, but it is shedding season and the color looks pretty close... I still need to work on my feather wing technique, but I'm much happier with this one than the first attempt. Per Kelson's recipe: Tag: Gold oval tinsel Tail: GP topping Body: Weimaraner (Yep, Chuck stood still too long... ) Rib: Gold oval tinsel Throat: Partridge hackle Wings: Mottled Turkey
  8. Mark, thank you. This is extremely useful. The recipe was taken from Frodin's book: "Body: Silver monkey's fur and a little dirty-orange seal's fur, mixed together". Based on that description, I was expecting more of gray-brown color, but your example is very tan colored. Thanks again for the help.
  9. Thanks Flytire. I have another version of this pattern's recipe that uses Hare's Ear for the body and the tag goes from the barb to the point. I may try that version next. It has been both fascinating and frustrating how a seemingly subtle change such as using medium size tinsel instead of small size makes a big difference in the final "look" of the fly. I have a lot of respect for the folks that are good at this style of tying. But these flies are fun to tie.
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