CoachBob

I own one. I use it, mostly for saltwater patterns. Not as good as vises 4 times the cost, but worth the money. Remember, however, a pedestal base will cost another $15.

Renzetti Traveler. I have two. Look at the topic "Dremel Popper for SW" and you will see a 2/0 hook in a Traveler. I put a lot of torque on these flies and the vise holds without a problem. You also can get a second pair of jaws that will supposedly accomodate down to a #30 (although I've only tied town to a #24).

I put this pattern under the Warmwater heading, but actually use it just as much for saltwater -- particularly for speckled trout (spotted seatrout) and jacks. Curiously, yellow/white seems to be very effective, but blue/white is always good. I just couldn't figure out how to list this entry it in two locations. By the way, using this method I have tied flies on 3/0 with no problem, but mostly use 1 or 1/0 in something like a Mustad 34011. This will also work for tarpon flies.

I don't want to raise a hornet's nest here. I spent years spinning hair. It is an art and produces beautiful flies. Lately, however (which in my case is the last 5 years) I have moved almost exclusively to foam. I use it for poppers, for parachute posts, for humpy backs, for anything in the gurgler family, for all terrestrials and dragonflies. Essentially, I have moved away from hair except for things that you can't really replicate in foam (elk hair caddis, muddler minnow, etc.). I have attached a photo of a bass caught on a foam slider. There is another of a bass on a diver. If you look at the dremel popper pattern recently posted, you will see divers and poppers. Using that tying method I can create an almost unlimited number of variables in floating flies. My feeling is that, while in the future, I might spin hair occasionally to remember how and to do art pieces, I will stick with foam for fishing flies. I like spinning hair, but, you know, there are favorite records I bought on LP, 8 track, cassette, CD and now MP3. Everything changes in time.

A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by CoachBob: Dremel Popper

It's kind of hard for a beginner to beat the Jack Dennis fly tying kits at Cabelas.com. For a first book try Ted Leeson's Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying.

At every Conclave or Rendevous in recent years someone is tying an "in-line spinner" style fly. Absolutely non-traditional, but designed to be cast with a fly rod. Basically, once fly tying moved to man-made materials, all bets are off.

After a lot of thought on your question I think the answer you are looking for is a foam frog. The concept is much the same as a foam beetle, but the key is in the construction of the legs (multiple rubber legs not separated but knotted to make the feet) and a slightly wider body. I use a lot of foam dots to color the back and to make the eyes. It is a simple tie and I do use a mono loop (around the bend to the eye) to make it weedless. I will probably post a pattern eventually, but I tend to procrastinate.

Any scud or sowbug pattern would be okay. There's a crawfish pattern in the database here as well.

Yes, I have had the ego to name a new fly pattern, but not after myself. I have a conservative attitude when it comes to naming a fly. Whatdaya think?

Good quality dry fly hackle is almost obligatory. Albolene (see thread named "flotant") is probably your best and cheapest option.

Try the Pro Weld Plastic Welder at cabelas.com for $26.

BWO=blue winged olive For trout there are essentially three ways to rig a double dropper: (1) Tie slightly larger tippet (e.g. 5x) to the end of the leader with a triple surgeon's knot then tie the first dropper to the tippet with any of the following knots: improved clinch, Pitzen, Palomar (the best knot but requires a larger eye), or Uni. I have known guides to put the first dropper on a perfection loop or Rapala knot, but that's not my preference. (2) Then use smaller tippet for the second dropper and tie one end of the second tippet to: (a) around the first tippet above the knot for the first dropper. This is a perpendicular line-to-line attachment many fishermen prefer -- but not me. ( to the bend of the hook of the first dropper (This is convenient and a favorite among many fishermen.) or © to the eye of the first dropper with a similar knot as (1). (This may not be possible due to the size of the eye, but if it can be done, it is a very effective way to rig.) The second dropper should be about 12" below the first. For panfish the best approach is to use 6lb. Vanish flourocarbon tied to the leader with a triple surgeons knot then use option © above and again use 6lb. Vanish for the second dropper. Panfish are not nearly as line shy as trout and will tear up small tippet (or you will break it because they require a harder hook set). Why a triple surgeon's knot? Because it is easier to tie than other options, and a blood knot or double Pitzen is the next best choice -- neither is as simple or fast as the surgeon's.

In the pattern data base click on Speckled Trout. What'dya see? Trout flies, right? Guys, this is a speckled trout -- a spotted weakfish. It is a saltwater fish. It does not eat nymphs, or larva, or mayflies, or emergers, or terrestrials, or any of the things that 99% of the flies listed there are intended to replicate. So why are these flies under speckled trout? Because some people see the word "trout" and don't think. Thanks a lot. Now the rest of us have to page through 15 pages of freshwater trout flies trying to find the few patterns actually tied for specks.

Guys, There are about 400 tie-a-fly sites on the net. Some good, some not. If you're noting a site in this thread, it's supposed to be a step-by-step instruction site.

Move your tying activities to a location where you can talk to her while tying. (Not as rub-your-stomach-pat-your-head as you may think.) If you have kids, be willing to stop tying and deal with them. Tie a limited number of flies every night and ask her opinion as to the finished product. Ask simple "Does it look buggy?" sort of questions.

Pretty decent site there. For those of you interested in step-by-step instructions, here is a list of sites that include at least some s-b-s. I have tried to include a pretty broad variety here. http://www.highcountryflies.com/fly_tying/..._steps-main.htm http://www.akflyfishers.com/flyofmonth.html http://www.invictaflies.us/ http://www.kidfish.bc.ca/frames.html http://www.troutflies.com/tutorials/ http://www.davefink.btinternet.co.uk/ http://www.stripstrikecharters.com/Fly_Tying.htm http://www.stripstrikecharters.com/Fly_Tying.htm http://www.americanflyfishing.com/retail/c...ore_id=212& http://www.mustad.no/action/flyofthemonth/...e/cz_nymph.html http://www.flyfishsaltwaters.com/Creasefly.htm http://www.riverroadcreations.com/gallery.htm http://www.texasflyreport.com/patterns/default.aspx

An Oklahoma fisherman recently suggested using Albolene as a flotant. I finally tried it. What a great recommendation! It is a make-up remover that costs $11 for 12 oz. -- which is about enough for a lifetime. It is available from most any drugstore or grocery with a cosmetic department. Here's what you do. Buy a jar of Albolene. Buy a few small squeeze bottle dispensers. Boil 2" of water in a small saucepan. Put the Albolene jar in the hot water. Let the gel-like Albolene melt. Pour through a funnel into the small bottles. Apply to any fly you want to have improved flotation. Frankly I wish more folks shared their secrets.

I have to agree. I've used this similar pattern with great success.

Got the same set as a Christmas present. The presentation case and foam is neat but not too practical. Transfered the tools to the wood vise case I use for travel and have been very pleased with the quality of the tools. You should find them to perform well. No issue with the threader and ceramic bobbins after, oh maybe, 50 uses. Not to worry there.

GENERIC BEETLE PATTERN Hook: Thread: Flat waxed nylon in a color to match foam Body: Fun Foam Underbody: chenille Legs: round rubber or silicone skirting 1. Wrap entire shaft of hook with thread to provide base for other materials 2. Cut a rectangular strip of foam approximately 1.5 times the width of the hook gap (equal to for larger hooks). Trim one end to a point. 3. Tie in point of foam at middle of the shaft. Make sure the tie-in tacks down all of the angled portion of the point so that only rectangular area is left. 4. Bring thread to the hook saft above the bend. 5. Tie in chenille. Wrap chenille forward or to 1/4" behind eye. 6. Tie in three strands of rubber leg material or silicone skirting material by doing the following: a. Lay legs on top of and parallel to hook shank b. Make two snug but not tight threadwraps over the center of the legs c. Turn the legs 90 degrees d. Using 3 figure 8 wraps tack down the legs which should now face perpendicular to the shank e. pull back the two rear most legs and make a wrap of thread in front of them f. pull back the four rear most legs and make a wrap in front of them. 7. Move the thread to the space 1/4 inch behind the hook eye 8. Pull the foam tightly over the chenille and tack down with thread wraps behind the hook eye and whip finish. 9. Trim the excess foam. 10. (optional) Cut out a dot of highly visible foam with a standard hole punch. Super glue this to the top of the beetle shell. 10. Coat the entire top of the beetle and thread wraps by hook eye with Hard As Nails. EXTRA DOTS: Foam beetles can disappear in the surface film. Extra foam dots can be added to the back of the beetle with super glue or zap-a-gap to allow the fisherman to see it better. The dots don’t discourage the fish.

Independence Pass between Aspen and Leadville Colorado, elevation 12, 064 feet.

Never had your problem using Crown or Traveler vises for hundreds of flies with a 3407. I tie saltwater on 4s and 2s and freshwater on smaller sizes. The wide gap on an 8 works as well as a scud hook. While 3407 is a good hook, try 34011 if you get the chance. The longer shank makes it much more versatile.

4th of July 2008

I have 2 Travelers and 2 Crowns and a variety of unused models. The Crowns are excellent $50 vises (although the lever can be hard to squeeze) and you can get a set with tools for $80. The Travelers are excellent for $100+ but don't have a nice case to carry them around if you are going to tie away from your desk. The most important thing is GET A PEDESTAL BASE. "C" clamps have very limited applicability.