longears

found some more patterns on the VFB thanks guys

Thanks for the info. just needed the hook size. I did a search of the data base but, couldn't come up with the aforementioned flies. Thanks again.

Thanks , what size hook is that tyed on?

Cancun, Thanks for the responses. Day5 , I thought you for a Tequila Man!

Anybody got any good patterns to use in Mexico?

Peg board. Everything (materials ) I own is on a Pegboard. except duplicates and bulk furs.

I like that hook idea. I would also start by just tying chenille on a hook . From there ty a carey, Then add a rib, then a throat then tye a sprately , then a wolley bugger , then a Nyerges Nymp, then a scud, you get the idea; Start with a simple technique and build on it. That way you're reinforcing your lesson plan and building confidence. Don't go on to the next step until people get the one your teaching first and by all means only proceed as fast as the slowest person can keep up. This is what works for my beginners classes.

Don's program is great! for the $$$ I just wish I could locate my password to open mine... I guess that's the problem with using too many passwords...

I got a set of the fine pint jaws for my Norvises' and have since parked the Renzetti's. I teach beginning rotary Fly tying on the Norvises' and all of my students love them after they get the hang of them. I now have 6 norvise's in my shop.The problem with the Renzetti's wasthe fact that I received bad customer service which I can guarantee that you'll get the opposite from Norm. He's a standup guy! Of coursre not everyone is going to like his product but some guys like Fords and some like Chev's right. Go test drive one or ask Norm to send you the DVD and see it in action.

Get a bigger house or a wife that lets you convert one of the bedrooms into a hobby room of your own. Or you can just wait until the kids turn 18 and move out too. The advantage to this is that the in-laws don't stay long if they have to sleep on the living room floor because you're in your tying room tying bugs with all of your friends.

I have 7 Norvise automatic bobbins and several boxes of spare spools. I love them although I haven't tried the automatic bobbin that you're referring to. I like the fact that you can get the automatic bobbin in a kit with 4 spools for way under what you're talking about for one bobbin. And Norm guaranttees everything that he sells.

a beginners class that starts them tying on a size 24??? I have a hard enough time stopping them from breaking the thread on the points of size 8 hooks. Hook and Hackle with make you a deal when you're buying hooks in that quantity

I've been to Ronn's place and seen these hooks. They're beautiful and most are works of Art! Just look at his flies and you'll see why you would'nt want to tye them on a cheapo $2.00 hook. Ronn showed us some beads that go into some of his flies that he has specially produced to his spec's. some of them were $50.00 for each bead. The guy is truely amazing and I was glad to have the oppurtunity to meet him. The guy is a real standup person and all of the materials that he sells is quality stuff! I'm sure that you won't be sorry with anything that you purchase from him. Randy Diefert

I bought a 4 bulb (T-8) Fixture at home depot that has a defuser on it. I bought 4 T-* daylight bulbs from themand I wouldn't want it any brighter although because it does have the defuser I don't get the headaches that I normally get when tying under flouresent lighting.

J.R. That was really good advice. I'm finding how how much that inventory is costing as we speak. You just never know what it is people want either when it comes to materials. I had a guy who insisted on "fish Hair" gotta have the stuff. so I went out and got it in several colors and a quantity of the stuff so I could get a better deal and then the guy comes in a buys 1 package of black and I haven't seen him in months. I can't fiqure it out... What I've started to do is give classes and offer a 10% discount to all of the students.That seems to be working.

Merle what was the material that you used for the wings on those flies? The photo isn't that clear when it's blown up. Those flies look like they would work in the rivers up here.

just joking... Relly watch out for the fleas and Ticks in them though. All they eat is dead or sickly animals that are usually loaded with parasites. I believe if properly tanned they would make some nice hair wing flies, Streamers and wet flies though and as previously mentioned ,it takes up dye easily.

looks like he caught that wascally varmitt! I've got 2 coyote pelts but, never tyed with them. I suppose in this neck of the woods (Pacific NW) I could use it to tye streamers for Dogfish Or maybe some wet flies for Catfish... :hyst:

One of the easist worms that you can tye is one that we found on a lake in the Quensel Area of B.C. It's called a glass worm or some people have called it a ice worm. To me it kind of looks like one of those clear chinese noodles you get in spring rolls and soups. Here's how I tye it: Size 14-18 80250Br Mustad hook Clear fine Mono tying thread. Clear midge Liquid Lace 1. Start thread just behind eye of the hook 2. Tye in clear midge Liquid lace and make 3 very tight overlapping wraps to seal in the oil. 3. Laying lace on top of the hook gently stretch it towards the bend of the hook while lashing it down with the mono. 4. Now that you have the lace tyed at the back of the hook above the bend take 3 very tight wraps to pressurize the remaining lace. 1/2 hitch it with your tying thread. 5. With a permanant black marker make 2 small dots on the side of the lace approx. 3/4 of the way towards the eye of the hook. make sure that these are small dots. 6. Stretch the lace and begin wrapping it up the hook. After the 3rd wrap release tension on the lace and allow it to frelly fall onto the hook as you wrap it. each wrap tightly touching the last and laying in right next to the last. 7. When you get to within 3-4 wraps of the eye really stretch it and take 3 wraps of your thread and whip finish. This is a very simple and extremely effective fly.

check out this site. www.mayfly-material.com he's got some interesting reading on this material. I bought a bunch for my tying students to use. It looks really easy to use and has some great tips that come with the packaging. not that it matters to me but, the guy is from Ohio.

the Ice fishing jigs that we used when I went to Kamloops last New Years where tyed like this: The tail was a short fluffy piece of lemon yellow marabou The bodyt was a chenille (med.) It had a gold rib the collar was a lemon Mallard Flank feather Thia was all tyed on a 1/16 th oz. lead head jig hook We caught lots of brookies on this setup.

I had an ott light. I got rid of it and replaced it with a 4 bulb 4' flouresent fixture with a defuser above my bench . I also tye with a mckenzie atached to the stem of my renzetti. While i can't dispute the fact that the bulb housing on the mckenzie does get quite warm; I never find myself adjusting it so to me it's a none issue. I now get the "daylight" with the flouresent fixture utilizing daylight bulbs. Now all of the materials in my room are "natural colors" and not just what is sitting in the vise jaws. I think that once it is tyed to the hook it doesn't matter does it. you want to find out what color it is way before that. Just my thoughts, right or wrong

The thing that I like the most about my tying station is the pegboard that all of my materials are displayed on. It makes it really easy to locate items and to also see what you've got. The second thing I like is a huge work area. Mine is a cut down drafting table. Everything is within an arms reach for me.

I agree with Mike. Tye with what you're comfortable with but, try different hooks. I tye most of my fly's that I fish with on the new 80000 series Mustad hooks yet I still have lots of other hooks that I use too. I tye alot of salt water so I use Stainless for those and they are Mustads too. I've never had a problem with them and they've been around longer than you or I. I figure that each fly that I tye is good for 5-10 fish at the most Then I toss it anyway. That's the joy of being able to tye your own. On the other hand if you're going to Mustad just because their cheaper; The savings isn't going to be that much unless you're going to buy your hooks by the 100's or even 1000's Tight wraps!

how about the same pattern as above tyed with brown vernille and palmer the hackle on as the wooley worm. After trim all of the fibers on the top and bottom for a centipead of course you'd want to tye this on a 3x #12 or 14 hook.