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Steeldrifter

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About Steeldrifter

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  1. You're a good guy Ken. You just restored a bit of my faith in humanity
  2. I've done that myself, we have spots here where it's like that if you want to fish. Spot on the Au Sable when the steelhead come in use to be about 75 guys in a stretch that was no more than 100 yards long at best. It's where fish would hold and stage and it was elbow to elbow. I fished that for many years dealing with the crowds. I just don't care for that type of fishing these days though. Dunno if I just enjoy the peace more now, or if I'm getting old.....I like to think its the first one of those things 😆
  3. If you do then try to use a section from an old broken rod (preferably fiberglass). A wood dowel won't offer much if any flex and will cause a shear point and just end up breaking where the end of the dowel stops. A section from an old glass rod will help to flex with the rest of the rod and have a far greater chance of working for you. If you decide to try to fix it yourself shoot me a message and I'll tryin walk ya through it.
  4. I factor in the $30 because it represents the overall value of the rod. If it were a higher end rod and had $300 original cost then $40 for repairs are worth it. Being a $30 price then spending more on repairs than the rod is worth is not wise IMO. Just the way I personally look at things such as this.
  5. Honestly I would say probably not. There's some pretty decent rods you can get for under $100 from Bass Pro or Cabelas so by the time you factor in the orginal $30 you paid, $25 repair, then prob $15-$17 shipping both ways, you'd end in with $70 into a rod that was repaired.
  6. Normally around $20-$25 range for a break repair.
  7. It's prob fixable by trimming back the split's then putting an inner stint in and re wrapping that guide . The good thing is since its right under a guide the action from the stint wouldn't change the feel much at all.
  8. A rod a day keeps the doctor away, or something like that Another just out of the shop and headed to its new home. 10' 3wt with a bit different color scheme which has a pretty neat look to it.
  9. Pa is for sure different. That's actually the main reason I stopped going out to Pa to fish Elk and Walnut for steelhead. Having 50-75 other guys with in an arms length was not my idea of enjoyable.
  10. IMO distance you can cast shouldn't even come into the equation. We get outdoors to find peace & solitude away from others. So it doesn't matter so much how much room is needed for casting, it's more the respectfulness of not encroaching into someone's space in which they are trying to enjoy their peace is the way I look at it.
  11. It's a name given by the manufacture that sells it so it's not an actual type of wood. You'll see all sorts of weird names for woods when these companies name them themselves lol
  12. First rod of this week out of the shop. This one a 10' 3wt with down locking 'dragon wood" seat, dark green main wraps with metallic green trim.
  13. What if you conform to nonconformity?
  14. Very nice Bryon those are looking great!
  15. Yes , but IMO it can be taken too far by some people. You'll hear/see guys that don't take a fish out of the water, never get a pic , always use barbless, never touch the fish, if you are doing that then there's nothing "wrong" with that, but to me I like to get a picture for a memory and that does not hurt the fish. Being an aquarium fish keeper like I am, I can tell you fish are a lot tougher than we give them credit for. With that said I think simple common sense is all it takes. If you are using barbed hook (personally I do not care for barbless) then if the fish gets hooked in a spot that is hard to remove then crush the barb and back the fly out. Don't let a fight go on longer than is really needed. Keep it in the net in the water until you have the camera out, but you are not hurting anything by taking it out of the water and snapping a quick pic or two. Just basic common sense stuff is all it takes imo.
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