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Fly Tying

Bryon Anderson

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About Bryon Anderson

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/10/1970

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  • Favorite Species
    smallmouth bass
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  • Location
    Holland, MI

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  1. Cow elk works well for humpies and is easier to find than yearling elk. Deer body hair is a decent substitute as well.
  2. PM me if you're interested and we can talk 🙂
  3. Interesting design! I'm very curious to see how it comes together, especially the adjustable size feature. With the Weldwood plastic resin glue, there's not so much a formula as a general approach that I use, which relies more on visual and tactile cues than exact ratios. The glue comes in powder form. The instructions on the container say to add the powder to a container of water and mix. I tried that once, and it was a disaster--the powder formed hige clods that would not be dissolved while the water just sloshed around and made a mess of everything. What I do now is this: For a trout net, I put two scoops of powder--and my scoop is a random one that I have, it didn't come with the glue; I'd guess its volume at around 2-3 tablespoons-- into a glass mixing bowl. I then fill a cup with room temperature water. I add the water to the powder gradually, stirring constantly, until the mixture achieves a consistency slightly less viscous than wood glue. You want it like batter, not like dough. I then paint a thin even layer on all the bonding surfaces using a throwaway "chip" brush. If it starts to thicken up before youre ready to clamp your laminations, you can add a little more water to thin it back out. I hope this helps! Please keep us posted with photos of your progress. 🙂
  4. Received my parachutes yesterday -- what a great set! Every last one is going into my dry fly box. Nice job everybody!
  5. Sorry about that flytire! I totally passed that off as if it were my own--which the photos definitely were not; they were from an earlier post of yours, as you know. 🙂 It wasnt intentional, just forgetful. I must be getting old or something...😁
  6. I used spray paint from a big box store-- couldn't tell you specifically what it was, just a spray enamel. Krylon or similar. I don't have a source for bulk lead eyes, sorry. Someone else here might.
  7. Thanks niveker--and everyone!--for the kind words. I wish I could take credit for the trout spots on that net handle -- that would be the work of a local artist who specializes in pyrography (wood burning). I took a class on pyrography from him, but it turns out I suck at it, so I decided to commission some of his work for my nets instead. 😄
  8. Michael, Thanks for the kind words - I'm definitely enjoying the process. I've been making forms out of scrap plywood. I draw the shape I want onto a piece of 1/4" and cut it out on the bandsaw. I then use that to trace the shape onto a piece of 3/4". After I cut that out, I glue the two pieces together and run them through a flush trim bit on the router table. That leaves me with a form that's right at 1" thick. For glue-up I've actually been using a product recommended to me by a local net maker --here's a link to the product https://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/weldwood-plastic-resin-glue/ I started out using West Systems marine epoxy for both glue-up and finish, but found it demanding to work with at both stages, not to mention very expensive. The plastic resin glue is nice and cheap -- $9 for a 16 oz. container at my local Ace Hardware. I can get 3-5 nets (depending on net size) out of that quantity. It sands much more easily than epoxy, and has the advantage of water clean-up. The only tricky part is mixing it -- don't follow the directions on the package. (If you decide to try it, PM me and I can describe what's been working for me.) For finish, I've tried several things. First the epoxy, but that was short-lived. It requires some sort of apparatus to turn the net while the epoxy is curing, and it demands a temperature-controlled and absolutely dust-free environment. I just don't have the patience for all that LOL. Plus, I prefer a more natural-looking finish to the "buried-under-glass" look of the epoxy. If you're interested in the epoxy, I can refer you to a good DVD that my net maker friend sells in which he details his process. The last few nets I've made have been finished with a combination of a wipe-on oil finish and a varnish topcoat. For the oil I use either Tru-Oil (a gun stock finish; available anywhere guns are sold) or Watco Danish Oil. Once the oil finish is fully cured (I give it a week to be safe), I topcoat it with a wiping varnish made from marine spar varnish thinned with mineral spirits. I keep adding coats of that until I'm happy with the build-up, usually 6-8 coats. I'm going to go ahead and throw in the link to that DVD here -- the guy who produced it has a unique process, different from anything you'll see on YouTube etc., but you can't argue with his results. https://flyfishingnets.net/collections/for-net-makers/products/building-your-custom-landing-net-dvd I hope this is helpful -- best of luck if you decide to build some nets! I'm happy to report it's just as fun and addictive as fly tying. Bryon
  9. LOL I walked right into that one...😅 Thanks Mark
  10. Quarantine and cold weather = lots of time in the shop learning about net building. Here are a couple I've done recently, plus one that I'd posted on here before, now all finished. I appreciate all the encouragement I got from folks on here - it helped me push through several failures on the way to these successes. 🙂
  11. Something is counteracting the weight of the bend and lower portion of the hook, causing the hook to roll point-up. Perhaps youre using weight(e.g. dumbbell eyes) that is concentrated near the hook eye, or you have exceptionally buoyant material concentrated on the top side of the hook shank? Having said the above...woolly buggers are tied "in the round", meaning they look the same in the water viewed from any angle. Assuming that by "belly-up" you mean hook point-up, does it matter if they swim hook-up or hook-down?
  12. Robert's Yellow Drakes are done -- need shipping address please. Thanks! Bryon
  13. I'll join this round if you'll have me. I'll do a classic Michigan pattern, Robert's Yellow Drake
  14. For my fellow cork popper enthusiasts - I got these stoppers from Bangor Cork for $.07 each. Bag of 100 came to $10 with shipping. I believe that beats craft store prices, and you can order bulk quantities of just the size(s) you need. See phone number and website in photo. Just thought I'd pass it along.
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