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Fly Tying


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About ubbrd

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/10/1951

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  • Location
    Sydney NSW Australia
  1. I currently use a Nor vise. I use both the supplied jaws & the traditional jaws. I have used & tried many different vises over the years & the nor Vise is every bit as good as the ones I have used in the past. I also have the Nor Vise bobbins but I don't use them much as I'm too ingrained with the normal bobbins. I'm thinking of fashioning a more traditional bobbin rest that I can swing out of the way when not in use.
  2. Yep. The Norvise is a great vise. I have tried & used many different vises over the years & the Norvise is up there with the best I have used.
  3. I use a Nor Vise at home & a Griffin when travelling. I have owned many different vises over the years & find the nor vise excellent. I do use the Nor vise Fine Point jaws (optional extra) a lot for small scud type flies. I bought a couple of the Nor vise automatic bobbins to try out but I am not very impressed with them. Rotary vises are definately the way to go & Nor Vise is an excellent rotary vise.
  4. Yep. I've owned two Renzetti's. They are very good vises but, I prefer the versatility of the Nor Vise. I sold my Renzetti's a while back as I wasn't using them & found that, for travel, my Griffin did everything the Renzetti's did. Besides, I got more money for the Renzetti's than I would have selling the Griffin.
  5. Pretty pricey vise. I don't think I would consider one. I have 6 vises & have owned & sold heaps over the years. I am now using a Nor vise at home & a Griffin when I'm away tying. The Nor Vise is the best & most versatile vise I have ever owned.
  6. I agree with tyrite. I turn balsa wood in the lathe using abrasive paper rather than turning tools & I then Dremel a concave face & cut a slot along the bodies length. I glue a hook in the slot & paint the body & concave face. All have to do then is tie in some maribou and/or other materials and I have a popper. They work great on our Australian Bass.
  7. ubbrd

    Foam Frogs

    They look pretty good to me. they would be ideal flies for our Australian Bass.
  8. I'm from Australia & I have purchased Togen hooks from Ebay USA at a fraction of the retail price of comparable fly hooks here. I reckon they are fine & I will continue to buy & use them. I use heaps of hooks & I keep thousands in supply, they will all get used & I will continue to replace them with hooks from the USA.
  9. G'day bowfin47. Your tale is very interesting & I enjoyed reading it. I was in Law enforcement here in Australia for over 30 years and although I am half a world away I feel ashamed that some enforcement officers act in the manner you described. We don't have part timers here & after reading your story I'm glad. It seems obvious to me that the part timer you experienced was power crazy which is the very thing good efficient officers don't become. Great yarn though.
  10. I'm glad I read this thread. I'm from Australia & I'm off fly fishing this coming weekend & sure enough, after checking my licence (as a result of reading this) I found it has expired. fortunately we can renew our licences online here, which I have just done.
  11. Yep. I have, it's good stuff & fishes well. I have tied saltwater flies with it but I'm still to try it on smaller freshwater flies.
  12. G'day Big E. The first thing I do is tie in the post (upright & leave a bit long). I then run my thread down & tie in a tail (if required). I then dub to the post I then tie in a hackle against the hook shank in front of the post (hackle pointing towards hook bend). I then dub just slightly past the post towards the eye, leaving some space behind the eye to form a head & whip finish. I then wrap the hackle down the post. I then tie of the hackle by sweeping the hackled post back towards the hook bend with my left hand fingers & tie off the remaining hackle against the hook shank just on the eye side of the bit of dubbing I had previously dubbed to just on the hook eye side of the post. By sweeping the hackled post back I don't trap any of the hackle barbules with the thread when tying off the remaining hackle. I then load the thread with a bit more dubbing (dub light) and, with the hackled post swept back, I dub to just short of the hook eye and then tie a small head & whip finish. I then trim the parachute to length with scissors. This procedure may not be in accordance with the "rule book", if there is such a book, but I have been tying parachute hackles this way for years. It may sound involved but is realy very quick. I'm also a fan of paraloop hackling (no post) & probably tie more dry flies paraloop way than parachute way, in fact, my favourite dry fly for small rivers & streams here in Australia is the Brown Emerger paraloop hackled. I hope this helps.
  13. Flyline 64. I believe you are being a bit pedantic. Although I don't tie using Mr Twisters or similar I don't see any problem. They are tied in a vise, thread, feathers etc. are used and they are cast with a fly rod. If a tyer uses Mr. Twisters as an ingredient in his flies good luck to him. At the end of the day many of us are tying flies to catch fish and if they get fish the tyer has tied a a successful fly.
  14. I buy a heap of tying gear from eBay. the prices, including post, are much cheaper than the prices here in Australia & I have found the seller in the USA to be very reliable and obliging. You blokes have so much available that we don't see here & if it is available here it can cost an arm & a leg. A good Whitings cape can cost up to A$180 here & the same quality can be got from eBay for around US$30. I buy 10 or 15 capes & saddles & it only costs A$60 to have them (the lot) Gamma irradiated here by Quarantine. It is a huge saving. Hooks & thread are a fraction of the Australian shop price I've never had any problems with the USA (& Canadian) sellers.
  15. Dubbing, especially Rabbit. I couldn't be without it. I'm probably a bit of a traditionalist as I use a lot of feathers (capes & saddles) and Peacock Hurl.
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