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proboardermike

How do you fish a nymph for trout????

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opening day is in less then 2 weeks!!!!!!! This year, im going to do a lot more fly fishing than usual. I just need to know they basic settup for fishing a nymph. where do i put my indicator, do i use weight, if so where do i put the weight if im using a drop fly, do i fish a bigger nymph as my first fly and a smaller as my drop? dunno.gif

if anyone can help me with some of these questions or wanna throw in a few more pointers to a beginner, i appreciate it. Thanks, Mike

 

P.S. how do i make a pic come up next to my name like u guys do??

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Although I don't use indicators, my leader length is directly proportionate to the depth of the water. Generally I start with a 9' leader and add 12-18" of tippet. (unless you're on small water) On faster larger waters I might even go a little longer and start with a larger tippet diameter. In other words, if the objective is to use a 5X, I'll go with a 4X and taper it down to 5X with the tippet. This allows me to turn over the weighted ones with a longer leader. I have used this method with great success in tailwater areas.

 

I'm sure you'll get other replies

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When I fish a nymph it's pretty much always on or near bottom. Tie your nymphs weighted unless you plan to use them as emerger patterns as well. I never use a dropper fly, but you sure could. Adjust your weight to keep your nymph ticking along the bottom and follow the drift with your rod tip. Use the shortest practical amount of line, and keep as much line as possible off the water to cut drag and increase reaction time. Use whatever leader matches your fly size and fish in the area, but for nymphing it's usually a 7'-9' leader and about a 2' tippet. I use a strike indicator of white yarn treated with floatant(silicone) and set where my fly line/leader connection is. I use white yarn because it's easy to see and matches the foam you commonly see on the river.

Commonly, your drifts will be short and your casts will usually be only from 10' to 30', with the latter being a long cast with a nymph. Try to find info on the 'Leisering lift', a short-line nymphing technique(which I kind of described here) that will surely keep you in good contact with your fly, and consequently, more fish. Good luck Mike.

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Mike:

 

Wow, a huge question. I actually went to a seminar on this while I was at the fly tying show in NJ a few months back. So much depends on the water but one thing I think everyone can agree on is early on, fish them deep. Fish are not expending much energy early on and you got to get it down to them. My basic motto is, "if you are not losing flies, you are not fishing".

 

The Don

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Let me start by first saying. What works for one person may not work for another.

Stream conditions will warrant different approaches to how I fish it.

 

Starting out I think and indicator is a good choice. Dead drifting can be productive, especially on early season stockies.

My basic dead drifting set up consist of a indicator, lead split shot and a fly. If I need to get the fly deep in a large pool or fast moving water.

I need a larger indicator to keep the set up floating. Underneath my indicator I will usually have 3, size 6 lead split shots.

The first one about 8 inches above the fly an the next two 10 inches apart. If the water condition warrant a nymph with a beadhead. I will spread the shot out a little bit more. The indicator is adjustable allowing me to change the depth I am fishing at. I fish the rig on a 9 foot 5x leader, nothing special, because its not a special rig.

 

I like to stand a couple feet to the right of were I think the fish are. Cast upstream, mend the line and the fly should hit that zone just as your indicator is in front of you. Use your fly rod to follow the indicator in the current. At the end of the drift. Cast up stream and mend line, doing it all over again. Take a few steps up stream or down, to cover the area.: Using the same technique

 

MOST IMPORTANTLY, mend your line. Regardless what presentation you are using.

 

Once I thought I had dead drifting down, all I did to my set up was remove the indicator.

 

Starting out I would stay away from a dropper system. They are harder to roll cast, more likely to snag, and become tangled.

 

Let us know how you make out !

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I agree with all responses. In our heavily fished waters it does become important to provide a natural drift which makes mending a must. Keep it close to bottom also.

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When J. Johnson said 'mend' he meant it. The water at the surface is a lot faster generally than the water down low. You don't want your nymph racing through the fish, it should drift naturally.

A good experiment for checking water speed at different depths is to hold your rod perpendicular to the flow and slowly lower it through the water column. In a decent current it will bend quite a bit when on top of the water and straighten out as it gets near the bottom.

I learned this between yawns waiting for the hex's to pop. blink.gif

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this is mike

 

 

what do u mean when u say "mend" dunno.gif

 

Also, if ur not using an indicator, can u feel the trout hit the fly???

 

thanks for all the replies, keep em comeing

 

 

Mike

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I really can't add much to this but there is one thing. I always try to to tight line nymphs and avoid casting very far. I fish with a longer rod (9') and try to use the length of the rod and leader and tippet to reach my target area. The less line you have on the water the more natural the drift. Since I started doing this my catch rates have improved 4 fold. Have Fun!

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How can I explain mending with out showing you...

 

Mending is placing the fly line up upstream of the fly, allowing the fly to get down with out the fly line dragging the fly in the water column.

Presentation is key, you want the fly to look natural in the water. It needs to move at the same current speed as it drifts down stream.

 

A simple, but controlled flick of the wrist causes the rods energy to move the line.

 

Picture your self in a stream. Fish are holding in a 4 foot hole in from of you. You want to cast upstream a few feet a head of the pool.

As soon as you line is on the water, use your rod hand to create a firm circular motion. Using your forearm and rod as one will move the line behind the fly with out pulling the fly out of the strike zone. If you see a belly in the line, caused by the line being ahead of the fly you need to mend the line to get it behind the fly.

 

In my opinion mending is the most critical part of being successful in fly fishing, more important that havening the right fly.

 

Watch other experienced fly fishers watch what they do as soon as the line is on the water. Before long mending will become second nature and you will be in to fish.

 

One last piece of advice. Keep you rod arm extended straight out. Follow the line/indicator as it travels down stream. Do not let a lot of line out. Start working with the shortest amount of fly line as possible. A longer rod helps with keeping the fly of the water.

 

 

good luck !

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Your best bet is to pick up a fly fishing video or meet up with another fly fisherman.

 

You can also just watch from the bank for a bit to pick up on how the other guys are doing it as well.

 

Another tip would be to start with a dry fly since you can see it in relation to the speed of the water, once your able to keep your fly floating at current speed by mending start working with sub surface flies. Your fly should never pass the foam or other items floating with the current.

 

Be the fly... j_k.gif

 

Longer leaders / tippets also help with sub surface or deep flies since they cause less drag.

 

--edit

 

This may help some.

 

Found this artical on reach mends.

 

Reach Mends

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