Foam Popper Question

[Rick Mc 0]

So I've painted and tied several dozen of the Wapsi Perfect Poppers in different sizes. On all of them that I have done, I filled the hook slot with five minute epoxy. It usually takes two applications to get it filled, and then I use sand paper or a metal fingernail file to smooth the hook slot even with the body. I love the way these poppers are turning out, but I'm wondering if it is worth the effort to fill the hook slot with epoxy. Does anyone have experience with just super gluing the hook into the slot and not filling it in? Do they still fish the way they normally would? Your input is appreciated!

[Stippled Popper 0]

In my opinion, given how quickly five minute epoxy becomes unworkable and the expense, five

minute epoxy doesn't seem like a good fit for sealing a hook. It yellows and cracks much sooner

than longer cure epoxies. It certainly isn't a good choice for clear coating the entire surface of a

popper head.

 

Gel superglue(CA) is what I use to seal popper hooks to heads. First, I wrap whatever thread will cover

the hook shank for the area which will be seated in the body to improve bonding of the hook. Second,

I run a bead of the CA along the hook slot and spread it the inside of the slot with a needle. Third, after

inserting the hook in the slot far enough for the hook shank to be fully inside the hook(but still low in the

body) I run another bead of CA along the slot and again use a needle to fold the CA into the slot. Fourth,

I wipe off any CA outside the slot with a strip of paper towel and set the body aside to cure. I've never

had or have had reported to me that a hook came loose from using this method.

 

The hook slot will usually not be completely filled by this method. I use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler

to fill any remain hook slot voids. I keep my Elmer's in a glass jar and add a bit of water from time to

time to keep it moist. A couple of passes with a fine sandpaper will remove any Elmer's on the outside

of the popper body after the Elmer's has dried.

[Peterjay 0]

I've also used GOOP - if you want to thin it down a bit, you can use Flexament thinner or toluene.

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

I use two different methods for Perfect Popper heads - one for the hard foam, the other for the soft foam... I long ago learned that the hard foam would melt and form a perfect bond with the hook if you first heated the shank of the hook in a propane flame until it began to change color (Mustad 34007 hooks) then immediately positioned it in the slot. When it cooled off it was completely "welded" in place. The next step was a single edged razor to trim off any raised edges on the slot,then filling the slot with that same five minute epoxy (purely for appearance purposes) or any other epoxy you chose. Once the epoxy is in place any excess was scraped away while still soft and the new head allowed to dry. After that painting was optional for me since bugs used in the salt will take a terrible beating and I'm not sure any cosmetics are ever noticed by the fish at all.

 

For the soft foam heads things are quite different. Using the same Mustad hooks, I wrap a base layer of thread on the shank of the hook (where it will be entirely concealed by the popper head, then partially place the hook in the slot. Once the hook is started, I lay a bead of standard CA glue (Krazy Glue is my choice), then properly seat the hook, and finally a clothes pin or mini-clamp is used to hold the edges of the slot together until everything's properly set. I do nothing else with soft foam heads, preferring just to leave them bare. I tie up a minimum tail and they're ready for use (since they take almost no time to do up the name "Speed Bug" fits them perfectly. The result is deadly on small tarpon and large speckled trout (and everything else early in the morning or just before dark in the evening). In use I tell my anglers to fish them like they were small minnows struggling at the surface. Here's a pic or two of the Speed Bug...

 

Tight Lines

Bob LeMay

(954) 435-5666

[Stippled Popper 0]

I use two different methods for Perfect Popper heads - one for the hard foam, the other for the soft foam... I long ago learned that the hard foam would melt and form a perfect bond with the hook if you first heated the shank of the hook in a propane flame until it began to change color (Mustad 34007 hooks) then immediately positioned it in the slot. When it cooled off it was completely "welded" in place. The next step was a single edged razor to trim off any raised edges on the slot,then filling the slot with that same five minute epoxy (purely for appearance purposes) or any other epoxy you chose. Once the epoxy is in place any excess was scraped away while still soft and the new head allowed to dry. After that painting was optional for me since bugs used in the salt will take a terrible beating and I'm not sure any cosmetics are ever noticed by the fish at all.

 

For the soft foam heads things are quite different. Using the same Mustad hooks, I wrap a base layer of thread on the shank of the hook (where it will be entirely concealed by the popper head, then partially place the hook in the slot. Once the hook is started, I lay a bead of standard CA glue (Krazy Glue is my choice), then properly seat the hook, and finally a clothes pin or mini-clamp is used to hold the edges of the slot together until everything's properly set. I do nothing else with soft foam heads, preferring just to leave them bare. I tie up a minimum tail and they're ready for use (since they take almost no time to do up the name "Speed Bug" fits them perfectly. The result is deadly on small tarpon and large speckled trout (and everything else early in the morning or just before dark in the evening). In use I tell my anglers to fish them like they were small minnows struggling at the surface. Here's a pic or two of the Speed Bug...

 

Tight Lines

Bob LeMay

(954) 435-5666

 

 

Face Palm Moment! You are a genius! I never made the connection using the melting of hard foam.

 

Very Nice "Speed Bugs". As the saying goes: "You don't want to spend more time on a fly than it takes to lose it".

Toothy species make short work of poppers and other flies!

[Piker20 0]

Like the soft foam idea. Very simple and effective.

[TheCream 0]

I do something a little bit different to fill the slot. I will fill it with a UV acrylic like Knot Sense. I'll get the head on the hook where I want it, fill the slot, smooth it out with a finger, then shoot it with a UV lamp. It's dry in seconds and does a good job filling the void. It's not as durable on its own as a good epoxy (in my opinion), but after painting I coat the whole head with epoxy for a hard, durable finish. I have had zero issues with heads coming loose.

[riffleriversteelheadslayer 0]

I go in a bit different direction by using gorilla glue I set the hook in the slot add a couple of drops of water in the slot then add a bead of gorilla glue let dry leave overnight then using sand paper take off any of the extra "foam" that the gorilla glue forms

[hotburrito03 0]

I agree with Gel Krazy Glue. It seems to work very well for me.

[Rick Mc 0]

I just finished gluing a half dozen bodies to the thread covered hooks with the Gel CA. I liked it very much compared to how I was doing it. It saves a colossal amount of time compared to the way I was doing it. Any other suggestions?

[Chefben4 0]

I have bounced around trying different ways and finally wound up following StippledPopper's guide. It works great my friend! I use the Locktite Easy Control Gel Superglue (called something like that) and its great for the poppers! Thanks Stipple, your work is inspiring and has given me projects to try.

[KHoss 0]

for any popper material...

 

lay a thread base on the shank

cover in zapagap

place the popper

 

paint/decorate/ throw on some eyes... whatever

 

then use Clear Cure Goo to cover the head

 

 

you are able to use small workable amounts and then cure it (curing takes 5 sec)

add another small amount... and cure

 

there is NO waste and SUPER easy to work with

 

I use the brushable Goos

thin for larger applications

Hydro for smaller applications or touch ups after the thin

 

Here is a cut and painted foam head

this is the softer closed cell foam... floats like a cork, but the softness will cause for poor hooking

the goo allows for a hard surface... with no loss of floatability

 

[CoachBob 0]

Here's the easy solution.

Heat your bodkin and slide it through the head. Be careful, obviously you can burn yourself and unsteady hands can burn out parts of the foam you don't want gone. Make this hole nearer the bottom of the fly to insure adequate hook gap.

[Stippled Popper 0]

Here's the easy solution.

Heat your bodkin and slide it through the head. Be careful, obviously you can burn yourself and unsteady hands can burn out parts of the foam you don't want gone. Make this hole nearer the bottom of the fly to insure adequate hook gap.

 

Would this be used for soft foam, hard foam, or both?

 

Being literal minded, I am easily confused by the generic term "foam". . . Seriously! As a child someone asked me to throw him a board. I did!

[CoachBob 0]

Primarily for closed cell foam.

You can use it on open cell, but the air pockets make the burning process much more efficient on eliminating foam and you really can't manage a small hole.

However, a small rattail file twisted through open cell foam will make a hole that is sufficiently rigid to glue to the thread covered hook shank.