Commercial Tying book

[Byron 0]

This is interesting.

 

I remember reading Eric Leiser's book about the Catskill tiers. The "young ones" - Darbee and Dette wanted to learn how Rube Cross tied his flies. He didn't want any competition and would not show them, so they bought some of his flies. One took the fly apart, wrap-by-wrap and the other took notes so they could replicate his method of tying....................

 

This was in the old days before books, internet and videos on tying.

 

To the author of this string, if you are interested in "exactly" how a fly is tied, I would look at videos on youtube by Davie McPhail, etc.

 

Byron

[Scud 0]

What's the difference the first and second printing. Is there any difference in the info in the book?

 

Jeremy

[sandflyx 0]

to learn a lot of techniques get the flytiers benchside manual

[H Dot Verseman 0]

The difference between the first and second printing in AK's book, is that he expanded upon his original ideas from the first printing, and added new information.

 

I would recommend the newest possible printing if possible, although the original is great as well.

[Chase Creek 0]

"If you are hoping to learn the proportionate value of a fly, that is all well and good, but there is no "standard" per fly recipe with exact thread turns, and if there is, it should be burned. Learning a fly's proportions comes with tying that fly over and over again until you think it looks perfect, and then having the fish agree. "

 

Gotta agree with that. I don't think there is a fly pattern out there that hasn't been tied with a tweak or two beyond it's original construction. In other words, there is no "exact" way to tie any pattern. There are guidelines (as far as proportions and technique) - I was told once by a VERY experienced soft hackle tier that you should not need any more than 3 wraps to secure material to the hook.If you want to use more, or less, then that is up to you. Whatever works for you. There are just no absolute rules in tying.

 

You can tie up a pattern exactly as described from one source, then look at the same pattern from another source, and it will be somehow different, due to material substitution or whatever. You won't find set rules in tying.

 

If you are thinking about tying commercially, consistancy is the name of the game. In that case, you would want to use the same number of wraps to secure each material. Doesn't make any difference to the fish at all, just the customer.

[H Dot Verseman 0]

^Agreed. With many things, you should only need 1 wrap to secure it temporarily in place. Because if it isn't in place at that point, you will have to force it into place with thread, which compounds the problem. Now, if you want to add security wraps, that is fine. However, when you go to secure the next material in line (great tip from Davy Wotton), unwind the excess thread wraps and then tie in the new material.

 

Typically, I like 2-3 if i want it in place permanately. anything beyond that, is usually unnecessary and wasteful and if I did need those, I probably didn't do it the right way with the first one or two.

 

So if you wrap a body material, and tie it off with 5 turns of thread, and you bring the rib up, take off 3, and instead of adding additional thread wraps, you have 2 materials secured with minimal waste.

[riffleriversteelheadslayer 0]

a tip I learned from some of the Salmon guys is 2 wraps laid next to each other is much stronger then 4 or 5 on top of each other plus when we tie them flies we wrap 5 on then take 3 off

[Bugsy 0]

What's the difference the first and second printing. Is there any difference in the info in the book?

 

Jeremy

 

There is no difference between a 1st printing and a 2nd printing,...or between a 1st printing and a 5th printing for that matter. A printing is the set of copies made during a single press run; a subsequent printing may be done to meet demand for exhausted supply. All printings of a book within a single edition are impressions of the same original material. When changes are done in the content or layout, the new printing becomes the first printing of the next edition.

 

In the case of Production Fly Tying, you may be thinking of 1st edition (1989) vs 2nd edition (2003), in which case there is some added text and photos in the latter (plus it has better availability). Where collector value is important, the 1st edition (and preferably the 1st printing) is most valuable.

 

If you want to preview the first chapters on tools and tailing in Production Fly Tying, you can do so here:

http://books.google.com/books/about/Production_Fly_Tying.html?id=deW3Py91XfYC

[Byron 0]

Rarely absolutes. Nmbr of wraps often determined by the pattern. Consider the difference between a delicate soft hackle and a big bushy Wulff.....