josephcsylvia 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Boiled linsead oil! Great stuff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Boiled linsead oil! Great stuff I will give that a try on my next project Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freddo 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Up and running! Not as aesthetically perfect as I would have liked, but I'm happy with it overall. As Freddo said -- it's all learning. IMG_4998.JPG IMG_4997.JPG Hey Byron! Nice work - well done! That'll be fun for you to have at your tying station for sure - good and functional. Is that mahogany or walnut? Either way it looks sweet? Did you put a finish on it? I like Danish or tung oil (or similar) as it makes the grain pop and easy to reapply when/if necessary. One day I'll get to design and build a station for myself. My shop needs to be liberated first. Enjoy your lathe too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Hey Byron! Nice work - well done! That'll be fun for you to have at your tying station for sure - good and functional. Is that mahogany or walnut? Either way it looks sweet? Did you put a finish on it? I like Danish or tung oil (or similar) as it makes the grain pop and easy to reapply when/if necessary. One day I'll get to design and build a station for myself. My shop needs to be liberated first. Enjoy your lathe too. Thanks Freddo. Appreciate the kind words. It's walnut with a couple of coats of tung oil (so far). I'd like to eventually do some more of these (to sell or donate) out of different kinds of wood, maybe some maple or something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retrocarp 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Maybe I'd like it better if it had a finish of some kind. There is some grain detail, but it needs something to bring it out. Yeah Mike he could paint it Pink and Blue .......lmao Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 The only thing I see wrong, aesthetically, is the wood is too dark. I am fond of lighter wood colors with more pronounced visual grain. As far as the aesthetics and functionality of your project ... looks damn good to me. It could use some sanding and a few good coats of clear polyurethane, but it's a good looking piece of wood work. Thanks Mike! I have to tell you, I thought I had replied to your comment right after you left it, but as I was looking through the thread today, I didn't see my reply. Not sure what happened there; I feel bad b/c you were the first to comment and, up to now, I've responded to everyone but you. Sorry about that! I'm working on the finish, too--it has a few coats of tung oil on it so far, but that stuff is going to take forever to give the result I'd really like, so I'm thinking about doing a coat of wipe-on clear polyurethane. What do you think, would that work? I was wondering if I'd stated things wrong and had you mad at me. I seem to be doing that to a lot of people lately. I don't know if polyurethane will stick to it, now that it's got the oil in it. But if the oils is bringing out the grain, I wouldn't worry about the urethane. Besides, You'll probably decide you want to build another one (with improvements) anyway, so I wouldn't change anything on this one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freddo 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Hi Byron, If you want to wipe poly on a project it's great stuff cut cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits (if it's oil based only) and use a good lint free cloth. "Thin" coats until your happy. I did an entertainment center this way and it looks nice. Regarding the wood choice, and no digs to mikechell, I like the darker wood because it makes the beautiful Dr. Slick tools pop with contrast and easy to see (all personal preference of course). Walnut is just gorgeous wood. My new shotgun has a walnut stock and forearm; high gloss and took a couple of dings already but just the top coat and that can be repaired one day. But then we "USE" the stuff so these things will happen. My shotgun and your tool caddy are to be used; nothing for a museum - these should be heirlooms! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Based on Mikechell's and Freddo's comments above, I think I will just stick with the tung oil finish--I lightly sanded with 320-grit and did a 3rd coat last night and I think I will do maybe 2 more coats for a total of 5. I do like the fact that I can always "refresh" the oil finish if it dulls later on. I really appreciate everyone's helpful suggestions and encouraging comments. It's got me wanting to build more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Pictures ... what's it looking like as you apply more and more oil ??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Mike, I will post some more pics for sure after I get another coat or two of oil on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MuskyFlyGuy 0 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Byron, Terrific job! I like the size and depth of the cut-outs you can place the bottles in. My desk has some that are too small and too shallow and subsequently are underused spaces. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Byron, Terrific job! I like the size and depth of the cut-outs you can place the bottles in. My desk has some that are too small and too shallow and subsequently are underused spaces. Tom Thanks Tom! Some of the holes on the base of my caddy could stand to be a little deeper, too. I just have to remember not to spin it too fast so nobody falls out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freddo 0 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Thanks Tom! Some of the holes on the base of my caddy could stand to be a little deeper, too. I just have to remember not to spin it too fast so nobody falls out. Also Byron, the closer the hole diameter is to the bottle's OD without there being a friction fit will keep the contents put too! I've got a small piece of oak pictured here and the hole for the head cement bottle is just big enough for a loose fit and deep enough that the bottle cannot tip out of the hole. I experimented to get that hole depth just right (that's 1 x thick stock; 3/4" actual). I can shake the tar out of the base keeping it against the desk and nothing in it tips out, not even the hackle pliers/clips. Play around and you'll see. BTW - looking forward to your pix! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Here's a couple of pics after the 3rd coat of tung oil -- doesn't really look that different to me from how it did after 2 coats. I actually like the way it looks now and will probably call it good. If it needs "refreshing" down the road I can always do more coats. sorry about the quality of these pics -- they were taken with my phone whereas the first two were taken with my DSLR. I'll take some more with the DSLR tonight and edit this post to replace these crappy ones with some good ones. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Tung oil is more of a preserver, not a "wax". If you want the shine, you have to put a coat of furniture wax on and polish that to a shine. But it look pretty good. It'll do for awhile. (Looking forward to when you do one in Cedar, or Birds Eye Maple) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
