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Any Sources for Tungsten Washers?

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The pinewood derby stuff looks like a winner. I can roll the dice for 9 bucks! If it about 1.5 times heavier than lead it is in the wheelhouse; Fin-ite's source implies a 1.7 ratio...

 

And, the next question will be whether the are corrosive reactions with other metals. Read somewhere that tin and tungsten do not co-habitate well?.??

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You can get tungsten carbide plates from McMaster Carr and then machine the part that you need. Not sure of the application but I imagine that would be easier than mixing and working with epoxy.

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You can get tungsten carbide plates from McMaster Carr and then machine the part that you need. Not sure of the application but I imagine that would be easier than mixing and working with epoxy.

 

Thank you, Andrew, welcome to the forum, sorry if I am repeating myself. I have noticed your pithy comments before, but not the "Beginner Status," so post away.

 

I am going to check this out, but you would be laughing harder than me if you could see my "machine shop" work. Right now, I have trouble spinning foam correctly on a cordless, drill-powered, Mini-Lathe.

 

I just need a small, round spacer disk, that is very heavy. Did a lead mockup, about 33%. too light... And other friction issues!

 

FTF members are problem-solvers, so a solution will be revealed, and it will be Good!

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Ok, going with pinewood derby source, can use product on other fly apps and cost very good.

 

Plan B is Andrews suggestion with McMaster Carr, they have 1x6 "bars" that are expensive but may be cost effective if I can get 5/6 "washers" from one. Still don't know how to drill or cut this stuff;)

 

Why do I want this? I am trying to counter-weight my Rite tying Bobbins so they do not wobble so greatly with spinning. I have run into a bunch of terrible thread recently and between this, and desire to reform my sloppy habits for benefit of fellow Swap members, I now care about bad thread wraps, although, lucky for me, most of the big, unexperienced, Wyoming trout are completely indifferent.

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Fyi - Pinewood derby shipping costs double the $9 I planned for 3 ounces of product. Still beats Loon at $50 per plus shipping by a long shot. I ike Loon stuff have a lot, but come on, this looks like a RAW material without special processing costs.

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Guest Tony P

Fyi - Pinewood derby shipping costs double the $9 I planned for 3 ounces of product. Still beats Loon at $50 per plus shipping by a long shot. I ike Loon stuff have a lot, but come on, this looks like a RAW material without special processing costs.

If you have a local Boy Scouts of America office/store you can get most pinewood derby supplies there.

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Thanks Tony P, good to know for next trip to Billings or Denver, I am not sure there is any such store in Wyoming.

 

Correction- May be such a store in Casper, thanks again Tony P

 

If this fix works, at least I will feel better about the $23.50 I spent in Jackson Hole at the Dennis store for my first one... maybe Wrong Bobbin for me.

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Instead of adding so much counterbalance weight that you need tungston, can you reduce some weight on the opposite side so lead or steel could be used? Or make some well placed bends to change the fulcrum location?

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Instead of adding so much counterbalance weight that you need tungston, can you reduce some weight on the opposite side so lead or steel could be used? Or make some well placed bends to change the fulcrum location?

Heavynets, in looking at the device, I do not see how I could do it in a more simple manner, with less destruction of the most useful (to me) features, than adding weight to the high end of the balance scale. I thought it could be done with lead, but was wrong. It was close but no cigars. And friction issues arose when pulling thread.

 

I committed to the raw tungsten powder from the pinewood derby supplier yesterday. Seems I will have extra to play with, and along with some UV resins, could possibly make some other weighting apps for both lures and flies.

 

Appreciate your suggestions nonetheless!

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I know you're pot committed already with the powder, but in case that doesn't work out you may consider the Loon tungsten tacky weight for less than $7. No idea if u could use something that's malleable but they claim its still heavier than lead. I'm sure any nearby fly shop could even order it for you to save on shipping, and be able to tell you how much you get in a container. Or call Loon?

 

http://www.jsflyfishing.com/hareline-tungsten-tacky-weight

 

 

Edit:

I just went back and looked at my google search and see that you can get tungsten putty from pinewood derby companies as well. Walmart sells it also I guess, at least online...

 

Either way, I hope that you can figure out a solution. Keep us updated

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ev8d, welcome to FTF and thanks for posting.

 

The tacky weight could be my new Plan B. I saw it as I researched but was afraid of the friction issue like the soft lead if I created a spacer; and, I feared that the gummy stuff would reduce the weight to mass ratio of the tungsten. I do like the idea of a quick weight that I can apply to the tippet to get a nymph down if I underestimate the current. Planning to fish rivers a bit more this summer ;)

 

Appreciate your suggestion, and I may post my first video,if I can get that motha to rotate smoothly.....

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Uranium ... that's heavier than lead !!! You can find your own with a Gieger Counter, too !!!!

Actually the military uses depleted uranium for bullets. Years ago you could buy them from military surplus stores. It's soft but about twice the density of lead I believed, would make for great beads! Might Glow as well!!!

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Actually the military uses depleted uranium for bullets. Years ago you could buy them from military surplus stores. It's soft but about twice the density of lead I believed, would make for great beads! Might Glow as well!!!

As a penetrator in 20mm and larger projectiles... no doubt all sorts of things were available in oddball surplus sales, but DU "bullets"? Also uranium is anything but soft- the penetrators in those projectiles were known as "self sharpening" because of the way they fractured on impact. It is roughly in the same hardness range as many high carbon steels.

Irrelevant maybe, but just sayin'.

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