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A few with Silver Creek's UV

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I recent got some of Silver Creek's UV stuff and it is certainly as advertised. I got it with the the high powered Lithium light and can say it is certainly worth the money. The stuff dries with absolutely no tackiness and in only a few seconds with the high powered light. I find it best to hold the light a bit away from the fly or it starts to smoke, as Henry said it would, but I have had no problems with discoloration. One thing about the stuff is it is fairly thin and is quickly susceptible to gravity. I find that it is best to apply a quick thin coat, cure it, then add to it if you want a thicker coat. It does droop fast if you put on a thicker coat (I mean before you can pick up the flash light) so a rotary vise comes in handy so you can even out the coat before zapping it. With the applicator brush, it is really easy to lay a thin base coat before building up a head or body, but it definitely droops faster than 5 minute epoxy, Loon UV, or water based stuff like Fabric Fusion.

 

Here are a few I did with Henry's stuff

 

post-18514-0-73659300-1398119502_thumb.jpgpost-18514-0-08570600-1398119546_thumb.jpg

post-18514-0-89666400-1398119565_thumb.jpg

 

And a surf candy. The body really built up nice and makes for a great translucent glass minnow

post-18514-0-59990700-1398119625_thumb.jpg

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Look good. I use it on thread wraps now in place of nail polish. Good tip about using a rotary vise to even it out before zapping it.

 

Kirk

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YEAP...Henry's has great stuff...I bought the lithium battery light was well as the laser one. Haven't used the laser light yet but I have used the lithium light and it works fast. Yes it will smoke and I am like you I do not care if it discolors. As far as I am concerned Henry's is number one in my book. Great customer service too!!!

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I use it too and like it, but I have also found it is just a touch too thin. But it cures fast and tack-free, and a couple of thin coats are usually better than one thick one anyway.

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I had to make a couple of choices when I decide on a formula for the resin. These resins give off heat when they cure. So the thicker the resin, the slower the heat can escape. A thick resin MUST be designed to cure slowly or else it will overheat. A thin resin can be designed to cure faster. I went with the fast cure decision.

 

My resin is compatible with the CCG resin that I tested. I have not tested them all but I am pretty sure they all are free radical polymers and should be able to cross link with each other and with my resin.

 

What that means is that you can use a thick tacky formula of CCG to do the initial build up and cure it to tackiness. Then coat the tacky surface with my resin and cure it to a hard shiny surface. I think y resin will cross link with the uncured CCG and it will form a single unit of resin. That is much better than coating the surface of CCG with Sally Hansens.

 

I may be contacted at picaboo(at)charter(dot)net

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I only tested it with CCG because I already had the CCG resin. Maybe someone has bug bond that they can try it on.

 

What I did was to mix 2 parts my resin with 1 part of CCG thin and mixed it up with a toothpick. The mixture cured tack free with my UV light.

 

Then I coated the tacky CCG with my resin and that cured tack free.

 

Someone that has Bug Bond can try the same experiment.

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I recently got Silvercreek's UV resin and high powered light as well. The resin is great, cures tack free really fast and goes on super thin if you want it to. The brush applicator works very well, I can get the resin just where I want it without a big blob going everywhere. Great stuff, very well priced and great customer service!

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I have use4d it on some small flies I have been tying for friends.

Like the thinness so it does not build up.

Have the low powered light that cures in about 10 seconds.

 

Rick

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I just got his products , the high power light and a few bottles of his crystal UV coat and could not be more pleased . Eyes are great and production tying barbell eyes with GSP bonds and does not slip anymore . no mess like epoxy.

thanks for a great product Silver

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I was given some of Loons new UV resin called "Flow". It seems to be about the same viscocity as Silvercreeks resin. Funny though, the stuff takes forever to cure! Practically un-cureable under a UV flashlight, I had to take them out in the sun.

 

I've used it all, and Silvercreeks resin is still by far the best stuff out there.

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I was given some of Loons new UV resin called "Flow". It seems to be about the same viscocity as Silvercreeks resin. Funny though, the stuff takes forever to cure! Practically un-cureable under a UV flashlight, I had to take them out in the sun.

 

I've used it all, and Silvercreeks resin is still by far the best stuff out there.

 

 

Interesting since on this post, Loon's "Flow" is supposed to be a "game changer." I thought I could stop making resin, if Loon Flow worked as advertised.

 

http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=79327&page=2

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I was given some of Loons new UV resin called "Flow". It seems to be about the same viscocity as Silvercreeks resin. Funny though, the stuff takes forever to cure! Practically un-cureable under a UV flashlight, I had to take them out in the sun.

 

I've used it all, and Silvercreeks resin is still by far the best stuff out there.

 

 

Interesting since on this post, Loon's "Flow" is supposed to be a "game changer." I thought I could stop making resin, if Loon Flow worked as advertised.

 

http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=79327&page=2

 

 

Please don't stop making your resin Henry! If you do, let me know because I will have to get a lifetime supply from you. Nothing else comes close.

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