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Fly Tying


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About hopperfisher

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday October 1

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  • Favorite Species
    trout, pike
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  • Location
    Seal Rock, OR

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  1. My first was a cheap PSE Sable TD recurve 45#..... I had a sweet older Pearson (can't remember the model name) 50# glass backed, 42" ...surprisingly smoother than the Bear Super Magnum 50# 46"
  2. training fly for casting big hairy flies...maybe
  3. Never seen this site before as I am not a classics tyer, but WOW!! What a collection of info for those that are!!
  4. I was fly fish only...and dries only when I was in CO...OR is different, I fly fish with wets only for steelies and SRC and gear fish with beads, bait and jigs for both steelies and salmon...I like getting bites and I take home any hatchies up to my limit
  5. You have a great vise! And, a great vice! Get some red micro chenille and red thread and tie a dozen San Juan Worms...these will start you on the right path to thread control (i.e. thread tension, number of wraps needed, etc.) Then graduate to something like a Hare's Ear nymph (thread, tail, dubbing)...dry flies can, and will come later...work on these fundamentals, as well as proportions and you'll do well. You have the first part down pat...a great attitude! THAT is everything!! Happy tying!
  6. Glad I could help! Davie can be hard to understand for sure...if you get some wax and need help preparing it, let me know...a decent hackle plier will be your friend as well, not only for winding hackle but winding fine wire, body materials, floss, etc. and holding tension on things like peacock herl, pheasant tail fibers, biots and the like...tying small stuff can be very rewarding but frustrating at the same time...let us know how it goes and post some pics and we can help!
  7. I have fat stumpy fingers, before I left Colorado I was tying tricos down to 24 and BWOs down to 20. I found that working your way down helps, but also learning to use different parts of your fingers helps too. For example, I started out using the whole pad of my finger which was fine for size 14 and bigger but as I worked my way down I found that using my finger tips is better. Also, make sure your fingers are not cracked (I use O'Keefes Working Hands constantly as my job beats my hands to pieces), dirty, etc. as this can snag thread and materials. A few other considerations... try using a prepared tyers wax (Semperfly, Veniards, Overtons, etc.) it's cheap and will give your thread tons of grip and hold materials in place better so you don't have to use your fingers as much. Check out Davie McPhail's You Tube channel and watch how he ties small flies and how he uses the wax. He also has a video on how to prepare the wax cake for use. I follow his methods and they do work. Hope this helps and good luck on the journey!
  8. I think you're right on! You may find that you need a bit more CDC to float that hook, especially after a fish or two. The length of the CDC doesn't matter to the fish, but the volume will matter in floating the fly. That is a fantastic fly! If my first emerger was that good, I'd be patting myself on the back and filling a box with 'em!
  9. Diggin' the caddis! I tie a similar one in orange for fall
  10. Allen Fly Fishing...allenflyfishing.com good hooks, good prices...never had one break, straightened a couple out but from accidental catches (big steelhead , tiny trout fly)
  11. These replies are perfect! It's like any hobby where you have to buy tools and materials and make an effort, make time/money to do it with no hope for profit, think jewelry making...I'm a cheapskate in that I don't/can't buy every cape/saddle, dubbing, bead, etc. in every style and color...My whole tying kit has probably costed me between $500 and $700 dollars (that's all inclusive...vise, tools, materials, desk (home built), storage, everything), you have to be creative when you're poor! This hobby is worth it me because of the relaxation and satifaction I get from catching a fish on a fly I tied vs. bought. That said, I tie all my own flies, and have only bought flies only as appreciation for advice given at a fly shop. I tie flies for everything from the smallest trickle of a creek to stillwater to open ocean saltwater stuff, all inside of that $500-$700. To answer your question...WORTH IT TO ME for way more than just money! Good thread!
  12. Thanks for the reply...that does help. I have a Hareline calf tail as well, I think I'll just get some bucktail to use for my bigger stuff...calf tail is still my favorite hair for winging...I'm going to try some squirrel tail at some point too...I noticed you use it a lot too, do you have any tips on suppliers, techniques, etc.? Thanks again for all of your posts and information! Dutch
  13. flytire, First off, your flies are always spectacular! I look at them frequently for beauty, inspiration and aspiration. Hard to see scale in this pic, but it looks like about a size 4, maybe a 2? I have a question....where do you get your calf tail? The stuff I've been getting is only long enough to do a size 4, 2 if I'm lucky...and some is only long enough for Wulff wings. I'd like some hair that will do wings on 2/0 steelhead swingers...I was thinking of bucktail but it's too straight for my liking, I like how calf tail is crinkly...thoughts?
  14. Just picked up my flies at the PO yesterday, Thanks guys!!!
  15. Good start! Better looking flies than my first ones for sure! The bugger's good...as said, strung saddle hackle is your friend (and cheap, but get a quality brand) in the fly tying material world the mantra is...garbage in, garbage out, your hackle should be about 1.5 times the hook gap, tie it in by the tip, right in front of the tail and wrap forward, this will give you a reverse taper (wider at the front, skinnier at the tail...preferable for buggers) ...as far as the tail, only use half of what you used, preferably the longer half...keep tying up those spiders in size 10 or 12 and you'll keep your rod bent for sure! All of that said, take those out and fish the hell out of 'em...you might be surprised at how effective they are!
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