rstaight

When I started tying I tried to save waste. You know the tips of hackle for wings, the after shafts on saddle hackle for wet flies and so on. All I really ended up with was a bunch of bags full of trash the never actually got used. It was tossed in the end. Just go ahead and throw it away.

I have a tendency to use sarcasim on a regular basis, but I have to really think about what I am putting in type. I have upset a few individuals in the past that took some explaining but it all worked out in the end. Sarcasim does not work well in print.

If the water is stained motion and sound wil help, with out a doubt. But the rattles I have seen for fly fishing may not created enough sound. Take a spent 22 long rifle casing. Add 3 BB's and epoxy the end shut. That should create enough commotion.

I have the Griffin Mongoose myself and I have no complaints. Even have suggested it to a few others that have bought one and they are all happy with it. You are going to get several suggestions ranging from Renzetti, Peak, Regal, maybe even Norvise. They all provide the required function of holding the hook. Since you aren't able to try some out do your research and what you feel comfortable with.

In my tying classes we were told the wooly bugger was intended to imitate a helgramite. But it does a much better job of imitating a leech. I can't argue about the leech. Keep the tail on the sparse side for action. To much bulk will kill it. And Gene's advice about sticking to the basics.

I use both natural and synthetic. The natural as stated earlier looks buggier but soaks up more water. I probably have more synthetic, that may be that's what was on the shelf at the time. Don't really know. But it really doesn't matter to me as long as it catches fish and I am happy with the results at the end of it all.

I have not seen a bugger tied in that fashion. I'd like to see a pic if you could post one.

Looks like you have plenty of brown in various materials. One thing I have read and what I tell people that are new to fly fishing. Every fish, regardless of species, fresh or salt water, rivers, creeks, pond or lakes. They will eat something that is brown and about 5/8 of an inch long.

Hard to tell what the bodies look like because of amount of marabou in the tails. Way to much, more is not better and like Joseph said you used the wrong part of the feather on the gray one. Since these are your first ties, keep them. When I took my flyting classes the first fly we tied was a wooly bugger. Man mine is ugly, but I keep it in my fly box to remind me of "the good old days" before tying turned into an addiction. One trick I used when I started tying with material proportions, was to say to my self, this is how much I will need and take half of that. It is always easier to add more if needed than remove it if you have to much. You will get the hang of it. Good luck and keep tying.

If you want some poppers, try out Gary Krebs' popper jigs sold by River Road Creations. I know Gary personally, I only live about 1/2 mile from him. You can make 3 different sized poppers out of a set and they all fish identical. I was fortunate enough to get one of his prototype sets and was amazed at how well they work.

In streams it's easy to fish. Just let it dead drift into root balls, undercuts, and rocks. Any place that looks fishy. Fishing it in ponds and lakes strip it like it's trying to get way from something. I only tie it in size 10.

Can't forget a crayfish pattern and a rabbit strip streamer. My favorite fly I got out of Fly Tyer magazine a number of years ago. It's based on a Crazy Charlie. Let it drift into a root ball and the smallies love em. Here is a link of a tutorial I did. http://tippecanoeflyfishers.proboards.com/thread/1603/panfish-charlie

I used those 1 time and they look, well, fake. Like a picture. I would much rather use starling as a substitute.

My first fly tying vise was a Griffin Spyder. I wanted to upgrade to a pedestal base vise and choose the Griffin Mongoose. Sometimes I still pull out the Spyder and use it. For an inexpensive vise it is hard to beat.

I have heard of using head cement on the backside of the feather to close splits.

I have used several different head cements. Seems like everytime I need some the fly shop changes what they are selling. Right now I have Dave's Flexement on the tying bench.

Black and Olive tied with a chenille body and Rootbeer with an Estaz body. All size 6 or 8 with a gold conehead.

I have used Moose Mane for whiskers on mouse patterns.

Here is a link to a pattern called Ten Second Egg. I have used this method and it does take ten seconds. http://tippecanoeflyfishers.proboards.com/thread/846/tying-10-second-egg ​

If I was putting the reel on a bamboo rod it would be the Hardy because I think Hardy belongs on bamboo. Any other rod it would be the Lamson.

I know some folks that own or have used the Sage Bass rods with mixed opinons. The reason for the length is you can't use an 8' plus rod in a sanctioned BASS event. That rule came about because when flipping was gaining in popularity some of the rod lengths were getting flat out stupid. Though I have no tournament experience I have heard at one time they tried one day of fly rod only at some of the lesser tournaments. As you might expect when no fish were being caught everyone was trying to fall back to what they knew. Spinnerbaits and fly rods don't mix well.

Those are some awesome looking flies. Gives me a benchmark to strive for.

It would be nice to have sections for dry flies, wet flies, streamers etc. My fishing clubs website did this but it is limited to dry or wet flies. Even at that it saves you from looking at an Adams or Elk Hair Caddis when your wanting Gold Ribbed Hairs Ear. It would be a nice enhancement. But even as stated earlier, tag it in the name.

Can't comment on something I haven't seen or used. But their website looks like they a have a no BS warranty. I would be interested in who's blank they are using.