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dazzyd

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Everything posted by dazzyd

  1. It's a thread cutter that you can set from sewing shops. I believe they are for use with sewing machines so you don't have to have scissors in your hand when finishing the sewing.
  2. I had one of those bottles with a fine tube for head cement but found that once the cement had started flowing, it didn't stop until the tube was blocked with a pin... made too much of a mess so I've gone back to dipping a needle into a bottle of cement.
  3. mikechell a fantastic way of depicting the 3 stages:) - I'd recognise those 'madges' anywhere!!! hehehe Darrell
  4. Acrylic wool is available in craft shops, wool shops, walmart etc, no need to buy from fly shop. Darrell
  5. One great pattern that uses yarn is the Aztec. There isn't much info on the web about it but its easy to tie and you can use any colour combination you want to try... http://www.flydressers-guild-herts-branch.co.uk/fly_tying_patterns/fly_tying_pattern_aztec_streamer.html Darrell
  6. Nice Tie Alan What cutters did you use? Darrell
  7. My eyesight is a bit poor for close-up work, so I use a clip-on magnifying lens attached to my glasses. Because I have to move my head towards the vice to focus, I work fairly close to the vice with my head just above slightly looking down. It can cause neck-ache occasionally but until bionic eyes are invented there isn't much I can do about it... Darrell
  8. Alan Yes, there are scissors and scissors and valid arguments for and against on many levels - each to their own and no one is really right or wrong... my fav ones are Surgical steel quality I obtained FOC from a client who supplied hospitals - they retailed 10 years ago at around £65 each and surfice to say I never lend them out! "...still using the same scissors after 30 odd years" That reminds that the "old guard" in my branch keep trotting out the line "I've used this brass bobbin holder for 40 years!", but they fail to recognise that the manufacturing quality back in the day was much superior to the cheap tut that is made today - When I teach my Novices group I advise Ceramic tube bobbin holders because for just a couple of pounds more than a cheap brass one if they break the thread it probably won't be the tube's fault - I've seen too many novices struggle with broken threads due to a cheap brass tube bobbin holder with a nick somewhere inside it... Now standing on quicksand and waiting for a rescue Darrell
  9. Daniel as a side issue - and if you remember what I said about opinions - scissors is where Alan and I have differing opinions... Alan ties commercially whereas I don't, but I purchase better quality scissors and have them sharpened by a professional company when they become dull. Sharpening costs between £2.50 and £4.00 per pair which is about the same as a cheaper pair, and they come back often sharper than when they were new... sorry Alan I too use hand cream - I work in print and paper is great at sucking out moisture from your hands but be aware that some hand creams can leave your hands greasy, so look for a light cream that soaks in easily. Standing on dodgy ground with better tyers around me - Darrell
  10. WOW - thats a load of questions Daniel! My advice is to buy the best tools you can afford - as you have discovered, cheap tools need replacing or cause frustration, but high-end tools won't necessarily make you a better tyer - that comes from practice, practice and more practice... Some call me a Tackle Tart because most of my tools are by C&F - a bit pricey but well designed and really nice to use - I have several Bobbin Holders (ceramic tube - less likely to cut thread), Whip Finish Tool, Hackle Pliers and dubbing needle and a £250 Waldron Vice - I appreciate well-designed tools... but does it make me a better tyer? Thread I use is Uni 6/0, 8/0, Trico 17/0, UCT 70 and 140 Den - but use each thread for a particular size/style of fly, you wouldn't use Trico for a streamer or 6/0 for a #20 dry fly (well maybe you could try!) Lighting - any bench-top anglepoise lamp will do - or two even... Varnish - Sally Hansens HAN, diluted with Acetone (NOT nail varnish thinners). If your eyesight is poor, I use a clip-on magnifier for my glasses - you have to move your head towards the vice to focus but better I feel than having a magnifying lens in the way of the vice. Dubbing - Empty dubbing boxes are available or you can just use small ziplock bags, if you want to mix your own then an old coffee grinder works but then so does a plastic bag into which you blow air from an air duster can - there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube etc that will show you so you can decide which you prefer... Hope this helps - but remember that the answers to your questions will just be opinions - and like bumholes, everyone has one! Darrell
  11. I polled with Sally Hansens HAN, and when thinned heavilly with acetone (not nail varnish remover - it clouds) it penetrates really well. I do use Veniards Black varnish to finish over a final coat of HAN if I want a solid black finish. But i never bother varnishing any of my fishing flies... A 3 turn whip finish is all I use... Darrell
  12. Craig Welcome to the world of fly tying For some it comes easy, for others we have to work at it - some styles have a steeper learning curves than others (for me that's classic wets and streamers) ... Lighting is really important in making tying comfortable to do, which encourages you to do more and learn quicker. Everyone starts off a little heavy-handed and it is often worth just practicing running thread onto a hook and then starting again until you develop a 'feel' for the thread you are using - i'm guessing you have started with 6/0. Tying need only be as difficult as you want to make it, but don't be afraid to post a photo and ask for advice, there are no stupid questions ( so i'm told!) - we've all encountered some problem or other as we learn new tying skill-sets, as a tyer of 12 years i'll happilly admit to needing help from time to time! And last but not least, any way of magnifying your tying will only be a help:) The forum is really friendly and i'm sure you'll enjoy your visits Darrell
  13. That is certainly a beautiful fly box:) I'd be too scared to take it fishing!
  14. I use C&F model and a cheapo Stonefly version - both are simply designed - no springs or over-large hooks and work great. Having non-too smooth fingers, these tools are perfect for me and I can place a whip finish EXACTLY where I want it on the fly (not always at the eye!). And if Charles Jardine is happy to use one - then so am I !!! -) Darrell
  15. Milo Sally Hansens can take a little while to dry if your fly has a large head and you want a really nice finish - touch dry in 10mins or so depending on how thick a coating you put on... If you dilute it with Acetone (NEVER use nail varnish remover or thinners - SH goes cloudy) it will dry much quicker. When I am trying streamer patterns I put several coats of really thin SH which soaks in and then a single coat of 50% diluted and when that is fully dry, a coat of undiluted SH which gives a nice smooth coat:) On my usual "fishing" patterns, I rarely varnish the head - just one or two 4-turn whip finishes is usually sufficient:) Darrell
  16. guitarplayingfishingguy I tell my Novices Class that decent tools make tying easier, less stressful and therefore more enjoyable - decent materials will always be a bit of an issue unless you are prepared to hunt a bit and reject a lot of 'tut' that is often sold on ebay... From then on it's all about fine-tuning all those skill-sets of each tying technique to be able to tie the patterns you fish with:) Darrell
  17. I use a Snowbee Waldron, comes with a 5 year guarantee! Darrell
  18. Here's a link to a heather fly - a similar pattern http://www.flydressers-guild-herts-branch.co.uk/Fly_Tying_Step_By_Step_Fly-Tying-SBS/Fly_Tying_Heather_Fly_SBS.html Darrell
  19. Nice patterns - i've tried horse hair for bodies - even torturing myself tying to weave it!!!! LOL - but not found it any better for soaking in water.
  20. this sounds like fun:) I'm in the UK - what would postage be???
  21. I use Sally Hensens but have 3 or so bottles on the go because it does get thick quickly. The best thinner for it is plain Acetone - NOT nail varnish thinners which contain oils and such like. - One nail varnish thinner I tried even separated in the bottle with the nail varnish sinking to the bottom of the bottle!
  22. This stupid fashion has made me med - all it's achieved is pushing up the price of decent hackle material... As an experiment I rang a few hairdressers in my neck of the UK to see if the craze had reached our shores - and not one of them were interested! Darrell
  23. Rick when you go and buy your scissors and bobbin holder/s (always a good idea to have at least two so you don't end up changing threads all the time...) go for the best you can afford. My advice is: ceramic tube bobbin holders - these don't cut thread unlike the brass tubes can, so if you're breaking thread it's probably because you're being heavy handed. Scissors; look at Dr Slick Razor Scissors - VERY sharp, excellent value for money. But NEVER cut wire with scissors unless you want to ruin them! If you want to cut thick material/stems/deer hair, get a pair of serrated edge scissors. They hold the material better during the cut. And try and get to a tying club or ask a fellow angler who ties about a bit of 1-2-1 tuition. Its better than learning from books, but some of the YouTube videos are really good - check out Davie McPhail. All the best for developing your new skill-set and welcome to the world of fly tying - BTW: its a GREAT way of spending cash!!! LOL! Darrell Membership Secretary/Website Manager Herts Branch Flydressers Guild - www.flydressersguild.co.uk
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