spoon flies

[FlyFishin'Jam 0]

Some excellent ideas here, i just want to hear what casting a spoon fly would sound like! I suspect something like a 'bullroarer' from crocodile dundee

[learnin to fly 0]

I have made some similar with the blades by attaching hooks with solder. These are probably too large for what you are looking for but the crappie and bass eat them up. I have not tried casting them with a fly rod but now may have to give it a go.

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

I make them with mylar and 5 minute epoxy on the inside to hold the shape, color the outside and coat with 2-ton epoxy as a top coat for durability. When you strip it, it spins and on the pause and fall, unspins.

 

Kirk

 

 

[learnin to fly 0]

I make them with mylar and 5 minute epoxy on the inside to hold the shape, color the outside and coat with 2-ton epoxy as a top coat for durability. When you strip it, it spins and on the pause and fall, unspins.

 

Kirk

 

 

Now those are really good looking. Would love to see some step by step instructions for those. I'm not too familiar with mylar. Those look fantastic! :headbang:

[Bryan Wright 0]

Eat me :hyst: that is classic

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

Learning to Fly: Thanks. I've been wanting to do a SBS of this. Maybe over the holidays, I'll put it together. This spoon takes about 20 - 30 minutes to construct although about 10 minutes of that is waiting for the 5 minute to cure as you're squeezing it to shape.

 

Bryan: Eat Me on those spoons is what makes them work so well.

 

Kirk

[Jolly Red 0]

Tom Nixon described a spoon fly in his book "Fly fishing for bass and panfish". It is a regular spoon, smallest offered, which has a hole drilled in the end opposite the tie in hole, which is sized to just accept a copper wire, size 14 or 18. The copper wire is cut just long enough to allow forming the heads as it is riveted into the hole,with the hook in ) and the ends peened to form a good solid rivet. The hook can be dressed with any pattern you care to tie. Using a small swivel will help with line twist. Hope this makes sense. I will try to find some I tied years ago, and if I do, will post here. He also said if the front third or so of the spoon is flattened, it will not spin. Haven't tried that, so can't comment on it.

 

[flytire 0]

http://www.nwmangum.com/spoonfly/index.html

[perchjerker 0]

One of our club members, an avid redfish chaser and fly tier, cuts his body forms from old business cards, which he then covers with mylar tubing as Kirk Dietrich does. He used to quip that he had worked for so many different companies that he had to come up with a way to make use of all of his outdated business cards!

 

perchjerker

[Kirk Dietrich 0]

Perch, how does he get the mylar to flatten out and/or stick to the card? I don't use a card or form on the inside. I put 5-minute epoxy on the inside of the tubing and as it is drying, I'll mash it flat, which forms the spoon shape.

 

Kirk

[Druce 0]

All this info is awsome, im sort of hoping someone will make a spoon fly because of this topic and tell me how it goes. I love those spoons by the way kirk those look like regular killers, and its a good thing that most fish are literate because that invitation on those flies probably brings in most of the fish.

 

 

[perchjerker 0]

Kirk:

 

He first works with the mylar tube briefly ti start flattening it, then slowly insets the body form, and continues to try to work the mylar flat. He then attaches both ends to the hook and coats everything with 30 min. epoxy, and puts the fly on a 'rotisseri". We used to do these in our fly tying course, but quit when the church we use bought new tables! We didn't want to be the one's responsible for messing up their new tables! Obviously, you know how messy this exercise can be, and even more so for those who have no experience with epoxy. Need I say more?

 

If you guys will be patient with me, and would like for me to do so, I will get his SBS posted her in the next day or so. (got our club meeting this eve.)

 

perchjerker

[Druce 0]

Kirk:

 

He first works with the mylar tube briefly ti start flattening it, then slowly insets the body form, and continues to try to work the mylar flat. He then attaches both ends to the hook and coats everything with 30 min. epoxy, and puts the fly on a 'rotisseri". We used to do these in our fly tying course, but quit when the church we use bought new tables! We didn't want to be the one's responsible for messing up their new tables! Obviously, you know how messy this exercise can be, and even more so for those who have no experience with epoxy. Need I say more?

 

If you guys will be patient with me, and would like for me to do so, I will get his SBS posted her in the next day or so. (got our club meeting this eve.)

 

perchjerker

 

 

sounds great to me id love to see an sbs,

[perchjerker 0]

OK, Here goes on the SBS for Jerry Loring's Spoon Fly ( he freely admits that he knows at least a dozen people who claim to have first tied this fly!)

 

Materials:

Mustad 34011 or 34007 hook, #2 or #4

0.015 lead wire

Mylar tubing (color of choice)

Body form ( can be cut from business cards, milk bottles, thin plastic hook boxes, shirt collar supports in new shirts, etc.)

Thread, 6/0 white

 

1) Tie a 1" piece of lead wire on each side of the hook shank, starting from the eye of the hook to 1/4" down the bend of the hook.

 

2) Cut a form for the body that will extend from the eye of the hook to 1/4" down the bend; width should be sufficient to stretch the Mylar to its full width.

 

3) Cut a piece of Mylar tubing that is 1" longer than the body form; remove the center material.

 

4) Insert the body form into the Mylar. The end of the body form that will be tied at the hook eye should be at least 1/4"-1/2" inside the Mylar tube.

 

5) Lay the Mylar covered body form on top of the hook; take two wraps of thread around the tip of the Mylar covered form about 1/8" behind the eye of the hook and pull tight. Finish wrapping down tight, form a head and whip finish. Cut the thread and trim the excess Mylar at the eye.

 

6) Reattach thread at bend of the hook.

 

7) Pull the Mylar covered body back, and pinch into shape at the bend of the hook, forming the tail. Pull the body slightly backwards, to extend the body form tight against the hook shank; tie off and whip finish.

 

8) Color the fly with a permanent marker, colors of your choice. Color about the top third of the body on both sides, and be sure to color the tying thread at both ends. Allow to dry.

 

9) Once the marker ink has dried, you then proceed with applying the epoxy, using Two-ton epoxy; being sure to put a good layer between the Mylar body and the hook shank, and covering all edges. Apply 'stick-on eyes' and cover with epoxy. DO NOT get epoxy onto the tail part of the Mylar! Fray Mylar tail.

 

10) Put the fly on your drying wheel and let dry.

 

11) Take it fishing!

 

Hope this helps.

 

perchjerker