spiaailtli

Sorry if i appears that way. Being disapointed is truely why I posted and I wanted to see if others had the same problem. Before I bought the vise I kept hearing how good the jaws were. After having the problem I looked up the address for warrant repairs and learned the jaws are not life time. When I learned they were only two years and they had a refurbish program for jaws it further made me wonder. Their response to my question about a 1 year old vise simply made me unhappy. I've done warranty work for a bunch of companies over the years and this simply would be considered bad customer service by most. Yes the fee is small, $15 plus $5 to 7 for shipping, but on a vise listed as having a life time warranty with great jaws??? Finding out cheaper vises heald hooks better simply made maters worse in my mind. Reviewing their warranty and finding no exclusion made Dyna King suspect. Pictures of deformed jaws, warranty exclsions, jaw refurbish programs...they know. I have my answers now so lets just put this one to bed and let it fade.

You must have missed the part about them being that way from day one. I only increase the pressure a little at a time to try to keep the hook from slipping. I've since review quiet a few pictures online posted by people using DK and this appears to be a very common problem. I just didn't know how bad they were at holding hooks until I bought soemthing that worked way better. Prior I assume all vise types slipped and dropped hooks. his is an example I found on another sire of someone elses vise jaws. Look how soft they are. See how they deform on hooks?

These are bad as in flat. In fact you can see they were not square as the wear is not even. Also I noticed the back of the jaws close before the front. In the top of the jaws are dents from the hooks meaning the hooks are harder than the jaws. My new vise is a low cost vise that I bought until I figured out what I wanted to do with the Dyna King. The jaws on it hold 100 times better with way, way less effort on the cam. My very first vise I ever bought was a $10 Cabelas vise and I'd have to say the two are pretty equal, but it cam with three sets of jaws. My new vise cost $50 less than the Dyna King, is a rotary, and came with both the clamp and a base. The jaws are made of hardened tool steel...world of difference!

I'm betting the heat treat on mine is bad. The metal is pretty soft compared to my other two vises. I've adjusted the jaws from loose to so tight you can't hardly work the cam and the hooks would slip. The new vise I bought cost less and and there is a world of difference in the jaws ability to hold hooks. The cam closes so easy you'd swear you were not closing anything. I guess it does tick me off a bit that their "life time warranty" doesn't include the jaws, nor does the partial warranty on the jaws. Live and learn. Their site does claim the jaws are the same on all new models.

First line of my email: I bought a Kingfisher about a year ago. Their response: it all depends on how old the vise is. if its old then a new jaw would be best if within 2 years old, then we can re-serrate the jaw. Question: I believe it is only a year old. What would be the cost to re-serrate the jaw? Answer: $15. So.... I think I'll send the jaws in and have them worked on. There are not too many vises you can buy for $15 plus shipping.

Nope, I don't have the midge jaws. I just sent them an email asking if it is cheaper to buy new jaws or have the others refurbished. While the "vise" has a life time warranty the jaws are only covered 2 years against defects or breakage. Mine are not really broken they just don't work. I want to get this vise up and running again as a backup. I really like the design but it is a bit of a pain when the hooks slip or pop out of the jaws while you're tying. I just wondered since they had the refurbish program if maybe it was a design issue. If others are having the same problem I'd just buy another vise like my new one rather than messing with the Dyna King. My best guess is the vise has about 6000 flies tied on it. I've had trouble with it slipping on small hooks from day one. It just got worse after a few months of using it. If no one else is having trouble I might give the Midge jaws a try to see if they work better.

Anyone else think the Dyna King jaws are too soft? I bought a Dyna King about a year ago for my first real vise. While it does hold big hooks it never would hold 12s, 14, or anything smaller. The Jaws are smooth now from normal wear of tying flies. It just seems to me like they are way too soft. I bought a new vise last night and dang that thing is rock solid.

http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=804510 his is the step by step for it. http://flytying.ro/masa_muscarului/article.php?id=313

You are talking about display flies not fishing flies...right? I've always been told by the masters you should never do it unless it is for display. Even then it brings your skills to question. Part of the "art" of tying is mastering materials that are fragile.

Keep them all. The primary wing feathers will have more biots than you can use in a life time. You can use them for tails, wing cases, and even wings. Even so they will be the least useful to you only because of the quanity. Anyone that is into traditional archery would love to have them as a gift. They are expensive to buy and hard to come by. If you harvest a turkey you could keep secondarys for the same thing and pass the primarys along. Even keeping more than you can use and passing along the rest to archery freinds would make you friends with people that might bee willing to share various types of fur in exchange. I can point you to a site with about 15000 people looking for primarys if you decide to go that route. Other that the primary feathers every feather on a turkey has great value to someone tying flies. I would recomment you mount your first tail fan though. You'll have plenty of feathers to use for flies. Shoot your first turkey and you'll be hooked for life!

Here ya go. This site has a bunch of patterns you can tie up. There are versions with and without lead wraps for beads. This one is without. www.charliesflyboxinc.com

Here's one I subbed everything with different colored living rubber legs.

It always amazes me how many world and state records are caught and never recorded.

brown with orange has always worked well for me. I've had days when you couldn't get a bite on black, switch to brown and orange and catch a ton of small mouth. Black a purple works pretty good in stained water or still water. With clear water creeks you often times need to match the color a little closer. Black and purple baits shaped like snalke or water dogs works. Brown and orange for crayfish shapes, like buggers and such. Your bright green will work better than anything about two days after a storm goes thru. The mud clears from the water and you're left with that dark green water. When you see the dark green water those bait you have tied will flat out work better than any othr color. Fish then like minnows. White is also a standard color, as is yellow or even combinations of the two.

These never get a chance to sink and are the best flies I've ever used for bluegill and crappy.

here's two different versions I tied the other night:

Is this it?

Here's the first fly i tied with the free living rubber samples I received. The only material used is living rubber, thread, and a hook. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dc2...6108AbMWzlk0atS http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dc2...6108AbMWzlk0atS

I received my catalog yesterday with the free samples. Pretty cool stuff so I bought some too. I might get to tight up some flies with it tonight, if not this weekend for sure.

I found out that minows made from picture #2 drive crappy crazy. I've caught crappy with those in places I never knew had crappy. The trick is getting them to swim correctly. I use whole feathers on the first attempt and they were hit and miss. If they swam right the fish ate them. The second batch I cut off the quill and tied. Very good results.

Bring a whole new meaning to the word nymph! Let's see...we could call it the coo*** nymph.

There is a bunch of info searching Google

If you're using flies that are already tied, just go buy a bag of rubber bands. Place the rubber band around the eye and then stretch/hook it to the barb. The size of the rubber band will determine the pressure required to release it and you can't get any more weedless than this. bass fishermen have been using this trick since the beginning of time. If you're going to tie new flies, you have another vote for 20 to 30lbs fishing line as a weed guard.

Anyone else having trouble seeing the pictures in this thread?