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Fly Tying

BobHRAH

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About BobHRAH

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  1. Chug, That link is to one of his 3 DVDs. The others are Tying Classic Wet Flies and Traditional Streamers and Bucktails. Great techniques in all 3. Thanks, Bob H
  2. Don Bastian's DVDs address all your concerns and you can see them 'in action.' Now all I have to do is get them to work in my own tying. He also has about the best demo of how to prep and set the quill wings. Keep on tying. Thanks, Bob H
  3. Any critique offered in a gentle manner is a good thing, for us observers as well as the poster. A diplomat is known as someone who can tell you to go to Hell in such way that you look forward to the trip. Thanks, Bob H
  4. Good start. Earlier suggestions are spot-on. I prefer videos that start with an image of the finished fly so I can see right away if it's something I'm interested in. Please give more detailed pattern infor (generic hook type eg 2xl, 1xf and preferred size range; specific threads; type of deer hair such as coarse or fine). Good Luck. Thanks, Bob H
  5. I have the same problem with bobbin holders that have a ceramic INSERT. The floss threaders seem to hang up on the INSERT edge when inserted from the spool end of the tube. Metal threaders are longer and if inserted at the tip won't hang up. Full ceramic tubes (eg Rite bobbins) have no issue as there is no edge to catch on. Norm, thanks for caveat on the Dr Slick glass tube product. Thanks, Bob H
  6. Norm, Any tips on getting the peacock sword to align with the same curvature for all? When I Alexandras, I tie in small bunches (3-5) of fibres at a time, which is a little tedious. If I try to set the whole bunch at once, they always end up mis-aligned. Thanks, Bob H
  7. Try to get copies of Don Bastian's Wet fly DVDs. Probably the most explicit instructions that I have ever seen. Besides the pinch loop method, he shows how to get the quill pair in an open loop and take hold of the butts with your wrapping hand and let the weight of the bobbin close the loop. But the method shown in Jaydub's post is pretty interesting, too. Thanks, Bob H
  8. Could it be that the wax that you're applying is causing the excess darkening. I don't usually wax thread, and don't see extreme darkening. Thanks, Bob H
  9. Mogup, Do you know of a source for Welsumer skins. I Googled and found no info on skins, just the birds themselves. Thanks, Bob H
  10. Most of your topics are covered in the 3 Don Bastian DVDs: Tying Classic Wet Flies, Advanced Classic Wet Flies (excellent married wing technique and a Silver Dr demo), and Traditional Streamers and Bucktails. They are better than anything I have seen on the internet. He covers thread (Danville 6/0), hooks (mustad 3906 and 3399), materials and especially techniques. Dave Hughes book Wet Flies is also very good. Good Luck, Thanks, Bob H
  11. For married slip wings, check out Don Bastian's Tying Classic Wet Flies and Advanced Classic Wet Flys DVD. Better than anything that I have seen on YouTube. Especially the Advanced DVD where he shows a brilliant way to marry the wings without slips all over your bench and not having to worry about which are right and which are left. Dave Brandt did a Catskill Dry Fly DVD which is pretty good. Featherbender Barry Ord Clarke has number of traditional wrap dry flys. They are beautiful, but it seems like such a waste to discard half the hackle fibers (by stripping one side) on good quality feathers. But, they are pretty to us tyers/fishermen. Good Luck! Thanks, Bob H
  12. I agree with GSP thread for deer hair work. Try to use the larger sizes (140d to 210d) for this size bug; smaller threads can cut the hair too easily. But you're off to a great start. Thanks Bob H
  13. If I recall correctly, up-eye hooks were for use, among other things, with the Turle knot which looped behind the eye. The up-eye also allows a greater gap than the down eye, especially in smaller sizes, as Silver points out. Thanks, Bob H
  14. I've wondered about mourning dove feathers, too. Anyone know of a commercial source for the skins? On-line search found none. And how about urban pigeon skins; should be lots of good stuff on those, too. Thanks, Bob H
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