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Fly Tying

ashbourn

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Everything posted by ashbourn

  1. This hook is one of the most requested hook from my customers. So far I have found a pack here and there on ebay or at a show. If anyone knows of a replacement hook that requires no bending I would love to know. Joe
  2. They are amazing rods for the price, and it is not just a few models that shine but almost all of them. Joe
  3. I feel they are on the same level as Ewing it is more then dry fly quailty but it is not the best value by far. Joe
  4. I have a rubbermaid box for everything (sometimes more then one), or some small boxes for thing I want to have a few of near me then keep the rest of it in the garage. For each pattern I tie I have a bag with a couple of each item needed to tie it (I usually leave out the thread, beads, and tinsel). I do have more then one of everything and I always have one in the larger containers. An example would be my poly box, I have all of the colors in the main box and when I need it I know there it is, if I tie it offen enough I will make a bag for it and remove a card or two from the box in and put it in the bag, I would then replace the one's I took out of the box so I know where it is when I need it again. This works very well then things like hackle, where I do not have to hunt for the correct shade I have it in the bag for the pattern (always keep at 2 of each color hackle in the bag) and when I need to find a new one I know there all my "stock" is. Things like threads, floss, tinsel, or beads are sorted by brand/type and will be in smaller boxes, if the pattern calls for one of them I may include them in the bag if it is something that is the same no matter the size. I do not put tinsel or beads in the bags very offten because as the size of the hook changes the tinsel may change and putting a bunch of spools in a bag annoys me. I do know people that take material cards and wrap various sizes of tinsels and floss so it fits in a bag easy and you don't have to hunt when you need it. Joe Fox
  5. Whiting has Pro Grade Capes and Saddles they run $22 per cape and $15 per saddle. The only thing different from them and the higher grades is the amount of flies you can tie per cape of saddle. Right now ebay is a place to find them, a few shops do carry them but supply seems to be low. Joe
  6. I have never been a big fan of craft store material, just because most I have come across has been fairly poor quality. There have been a few finds here and their, ostrich plumes, mallard every now and then, peacock, even some rooster feathers good for streamers all of these finds were one time finds, new shipments were not as good, store stoped selling something, etc. Joe
  7. It is not a movie, but in the 2nd half of the Dette book there are drawings of how to post wings. I found it one of the best souces for this, there are a few others but I am having trouble remembering their names. The problem with many of the movies out there it is from a different angle or they do not get in close, or it is just done too fast. Joe
  8. The only thing that would cause the feather to twist, is and very uneven base. This does not mean smooth but just no large peaks and valleys for the stem to slip into, this can cause the feather to twist. Another problem could be the hackle it self, a hackles stem is four sided to almost rounded, some hackle is three sided and when it is like that tying with it is very hard. Hackle quality shoud not have much to do with it. The Whiting hackle will be ezer to tie with because of the softer stems, it allows for more forgiveness the softer stem will tend to work with you where the stiffer stem may need some manipulation. Ways to learn to tie neat stright hackle are put a layer of dubbing down before you wrap the hackle, it will do two things, it keeps the stem from twisting as much and the dubbing on the side of the stem keep the hackle more inline. Saddles are a good way to start, there is little taper in the stem and are finer and ezer to control. Also try just laying the hackle down on the bare shank. Don't be afraid to untwist and adjust the hackle. The more you work at it the better it will become. Joe
  9. The only time I have ever need to touch a vise was if there was a funny sound and most of the time it was something sliped into the wrong place. I have oiled a few old vises because of a squeak, but over all there is little need, most have an enclosed system and if well greased when assembled it will last for years. Joe Fox
  10. I'll talk to Mary Dette about sending you a fly. Joe
  11. The Green Drake nymph is not the most effectie nymph because it only comes out as it is making its trip to the surface. Because of this I like GD emergers but for the nymph I would use this pattern. Tail: pheasent or whatever floats your boat shell back: turkey tail or something like that ab: creamy red fox with a bit of yellow added to just give it a hint of yellow rib: gray after shaft or gray ostrich counter wraped with gold wire thorax: same dubbing as ab throat: partridge Tie in tail, tie in shell back over the top, tie in ostrich and wire, dub up 2/3 of the way to the eye, wrap ostrich, pull shell back over ab, wrap wire. Dub thorax, tie in and wrap hackle, pull shell back over thorax. and give it a nice clean head. Joe
  12. Hey Ted, I am who you think I am. Granny is doing great. She is on LI for the winter, I am staying up here doing that school thing and tying a bit. Joe
  13. I have no problem using a sub as long as you are unable to tell. The problem is many subs do not tie as well. A perfect example is bustards, there are some subs that look the same but 98% of the time the sub does not tie as well. Joe Fox
  14. Partridge hooks have been growing on me. They have alot of unique hooks like the Klinkhamer and the Swedish Dry, but still have a nice range of standard hooks. Their quality it great I just wish I could get them in 100's packs. Joe Fox
  15. Well the easiest would be a Flick Blue Winged Olive, med dark dun tail that is a little long, olive dubbed body to match your local hatch, and med dark dun hackle a little more then 2 times the hook gap. Joe Fox
  16. Looks ok, you should pick a tail feather small enough so you see 2 black bars without being too long. The hackle is a little sloppy. A true Catskill Dry tied like Cross, Dette, or Darbee should have hackle 2x the hook gap with the wings a bit above the hackle. The hackle color is a little light a darker brown might improve the look. Joe Fox
  17. White Poly Yarn is our main material of choice, Krystal Flash is another for smaller flies, a material called DNA, Grizzly Hackle wraped as hackle then split is a great one, so hackle tips, and woodduck brest feather. Joe Fox
  18. Catskill Style dries are 2x the hook gap. Joe Fox
  19. We use a CDC post, Mink Tail tail, and dubbed body on a curved hook, this year I have also been making a klink hammer verison that had a med dun hackle around the post. Joe Fox
  20. are you going to wrap them as hackle to make them float or tie them in at the back?
  21. Use a heavy tippet, leaders twist because the fly is too big or too heavy or is too wind resistant, a heaver leader will fix the problem. On a size 12 fan wing 3X is needed most of the time. Joe
  22. I called Whiting Farms today and asked what was up with the droping of the Silver Badger from the Whiting line. They told me they never dropped it. I ordered me self a couple just in case I will let you know what they look like when I get them. Joe
  23. I'll be calling Whiting Farms tomorrow, do you want me to pick you up one with my order??? Joe Fox
  24. Whiting Hebert Pro Grade, it is the best thing to happen to hackle. $20 per cape and they are all dry fly quality. Joe Fox
  25. I switch to a Stright eye at around size 20 or I use a hook with a wide gap.
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