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haziz

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About haziz

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    Beginner

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  • Favorite Species
    Trout
  • Security
    22

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  • Location
    Western Massachusetts

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  1. Thanks. A used copy of the book was already on it's way to me. Looking forward to it. It is good to know that this information is covered.
  2. This maybe elementary to veteran fly tiers, but to us newbies, rooster cape anatomy is a bit of a mystery. Now that I have received 6 great capes (and 2 saddles) from Charlie Collins (highly recommended BTW), I am trying to figure out my way around each cape. Are there illustrations, pictures, or in this age YouTube videos, that illustrate where, on the cape, to grab spade hackle tailing material, hackle for small flies, hackle for larger flies, stiffer barbs, softer barbs, and general fly tying, particularly hackle, know-how and lore? Basically is there a photo of a cape with arrows or lines pointing to where you would opt to pick your tailing material, best hackle, large hackle etc.? I did grab a bag of Spade hackle from him, but that is only in Grizzly, and I would want tailing material in other colors. I do have a hackle gauge, so I am already exploring on my own, but some advice and lore would also be very welcome. Thanks.
  3. Is this wax usable for waxing silk thread, for soft hackle flies ("North Country Spiders"), like a partridge and orange? I am a little confused by the manufacturer refering to it as a dubbing wax. https://www.semperfli.net/semperfli-prepared-fly-tyers-wax.html If not, what is the proper wax used to prepare silk thread? Thanks.
  4. Can you elaborate on what you mean by front to back as opposed to back to front? Is this referring to hook bend to eye? Thanks.
  5. Is it braided or chord like, like their usual thread? Thanks.
  6. I generally prefer "chorded" and round thread e.g. Uni thread, and find "flossy" threads difficult to deal with. I would like to branch out into GSP. There seems to be three marketers of the GSP thread in the US. They are all flossy to some extent, which I regard as a negative, but as best as I can tell there maybe a difference in how tightly they are spun/wound. Which is the LEAST flossy [i.e. most chord like] of the brands? Thanks.
  7. I did finally break down and ordered the Kindle version of the book, since it was less expensive. The book is clearly very well done and the integration of the video links and supplemental material exceptionally well presented. My one issue is that he certainly jumps into fairly complex patterns from the very beginning. This is not a book that eases a newbie in with a woolly bugger, or woolly worm. I guess I could have figured that out by watching the videos of the first few patterns, and possibly saved my money. However, I am quite impressed with the book and will certainly keep it, I just need to work my way up to these patterns. Great second or third book, but probably not a great choice for a relative newbie, albeit one who has been tying a little for a couple of years in my case.
  8. I think I finally figured it out! After practicing 50-60 times- the wrong way, of course! I started re-watching every YouTube video on whip finishing out there. I finally got it! My problem was that after engaging the Matarelli tool hook and bend around the thread, I used to rotate the tool creating an upside-down figure "4" with the horizontal section of the thread UNDER the vertical section, this meant that by wrapping in a conventional/clockwise direction it would take me at least one and sometimes two wraps to finally trap the horizontal section of thread, and at that point would often end up with either a small tangle or at least the feeling that it was quite awkward. By rotating the tool in an opposite or different direction, I actually end up with the horizontal section of thread OVER the vertical section and it is trapped with only half a turn and far less room for things to go wrong. Interestingly even some famous tyers seem to show it both ways, sometimes even the same tyer! E.g. Tim Flagler in his regular Tightlines video seems to show it under the vertical section and requiring him to make a complete turn before trapping the thread. This is the way I struggled with. Interestingly in his (different) video made for the Orvis Learning Center, he turns it so that the horizontal section of thread is over the vertical, and requiring only half a turn to get trapped. It is only after watching the latter video a couple of times that it finally clicked. It is a little hard to explain in words, I hope the above description is clear.
  9. I would like to tie some soft hackles, particularly a partridge and orange. A couple of questions: 1. For the hackle, which partridge feather is traditionally used? Are these from a cape, saddle or just random body feathers? Do you buy an entire partridge skin or do they sell capes and saddles, or just random feathers? Which partridge species? Hungarian? Gray (which I think is the same species as Hungarian partridge)? Does feather color matter? If I substitute hen for the partridge, do I get a hen cape or saddle? Again, would color matter? 2. I realize that traditionally this was tied with silk thread. I am assuming that any "modern" thread can be substituted instead? If so, would you use 6/0, 3/0 or other? I would presumably aim for a slightly dull orange color. I am planning on tying in sizes 12-18. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks
  10. I do practice on a bare hook tied into the vise, essentially doing 10-20 whip finish(es) on the bare hook, until the hook becomes "lumpy", then rinse and repeat. I am still struggling with the "proper" whip finish direction.
  11. The Feather Bender's Flytying Techniques: A Comprehensive Guide to Classic and Modern Trout Flies by Barry Orde Clarke, looks interesting, but it seems to be written by a European tyer. I realize that tying technique in general, and many fly patterns, are universal, but still wanted some feedback as to how relevant and useful US based fly tyers find this book? Any feedback regarding the book, in general? Thanks.
  12. I wrap thread in the conventional direction, away from me, over the hook (clockwise when directly facing the hook eye). However when using a whip finish tool, I find it much easier to essentially whip finish in the opposite direction. Rotating the whip finish, towards me, over the hook. I am not sure if this would weaken my wraps slightly. If I try to whip finish in the same direction as my usual thread wraps, I find the trapped portion of the thread (the horizontal section of the thread in the upside down "4" shape) created by the whip finish tool to be very awkward in positioning. I have tried practicing multiple times in the "correct" direction, but still struggle with it. Does it matter? Should I keep practicing, or just do it the way it comes naturally to me. I find whip finishing by hand to be very awkward, so that is not the solution for me. I prefer to use a Matarreli style whip finish tool. Thanks.
  13. I ordered a decent quantity of dubbing from Flyshack. This is their own branded ("Flyshack") material, presumably made by somebody else for them. Now, I wonder if I should have ordered from a more established brand? I simply went with Flyshack since I was making an order for other items from them. Any experience of their own Flyshack brand dubbing? I suspect it is made by one of the more established brands but is essentially being sold under their OEM label. Thanks.
  14. I ordered "extra fine" dry fly dubbing online, but until it arrives, can I use rabbit dubbing in the meantime. I would use it very sparingly. My understanding is that the rabbit dubbing would take on water and may end up sinking the fly, but I am too impatient to wait for the usual dry fly dubbing to arrive. Any issues with using the rabbit dubbing in the meantime? This is for my own personal use, obviously. Thanks.
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