Cortland slip on loop failure.

[natedubay 0]

I just had a Cortland slip on loop slide off my fly line while fishing carp. I've never had a problem before with them. The only thing I can think of is a willow tree caught a couple of backcasts and I had to snap the tippet. Anyone else using these? I have one left, my question is should I install another one or attempt welding a loop? The fly line is good for at least one or two summers. This is on my 8 wt which I use for carp, steelhead, salmon... so it does take some abuse.

 

Thanks, Nate

[Jaydub 0]

If you are talking about the pre-packaged Chinese finger puzzle loops, I don't trust them. For a more secure way to make a braided loop, check out Dan Blanton's instructions here: http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/

[natedubay 0]

Yea, that kind. I've used them for years on lines before the factory loops became so prevalent. Never had an issue. This particular ones has been on 3 years. Thanks for the tip.

[riffleriversteelheadslayer 0]

3 years on one loop? hell you must never fish then I change mine every year never had a problem

[natedubay 0]

Is it something you change out? I had mine flexamented down after I slid it on, so I never considered it an option.

 

Yea, three years may seem long, but it's probably 50-60 days total on it. It's my big gun so it doesn't come out much.

[Kudu 0]

I have been using the whipped loop knot and it works great. Got the idea from our friendly curmudgeon j.smyzk

[netabrookie 0]

I have had two of them to fail on me but I don't really blame the loop that much. I lost the first one in a steep mountain stream but I'm sure that being drug over the rocks for countless casts had something to do with its failure. The second one was lost on a big trout but was used before that day in some of those mountain streams. Mine actually broke in the loop part and I just lost the leader, fly and fish. I tried to find the first one because I didn't like leaving a 7" leader in a beautiful little brookie stream, but I never spotted it. One can only hope that the brookie got off of it somehow and that a bird or some other critter didn't get tangled up in it. I invented a few new words for the English language on the second fail because I was solid into a huge rainbow when it let go. A heat gun works a lot better for the shrink tubing than a Bic lighter streamside. A breeze moved the flame enough to melt part of the new loop and made it worthless, but a nail knot was thought up long before loops and will always allow you to keep on fishing...

[natedubay 0]

Mine either slipped off, or broke the fly line at the base of the slip on loop where the shrink tubing goes to hold down the frayed ends. I could watch the braided section swim around for a bit before the fish went deep. Couldn't tell if the fly line was inside it.

[netabrookie 0]

I didn't trust the shrink tubing on the first one that I used and added a little super glue to the formula and thought that everything was good, but after just a short while I noticed the coating on my line cracking just above the shrink tubing. The super glue made everything so hard that the line could no longer flex and it started a pivot point right above the loop and would have broke my line there eventually.

[FlyFishin'Jam 0]

I have been using the whipped loop knot and it works great. Got the idea from our friendly curmudgeon j.smyzk

Hehe, i have special fondness for that curmudgeon. Experienced angler. If given time the best way is to double needle knot the butt section right to you fly line and go from there. Eliminates 'hinging'.

[Crackaig 0]

Braided loops have let me down in the past as well. I wouldn't use one now. If I need a quick repair I use the Greys Loop. For the last 3 seasons I have used the "super glue connection". Basically a knotless tapered leader butt inserted into the end of the fly line with a drop of super glue to hold it in place. I've been amazed how good it is. One has never let me down. It is the smoothest connection possible.

Cheers,

C.

[flytire 0]

when the loop is installed onto the fly line as far as it will go, tie a nail knot 1/4 - 3/8 inch from the end of the fly line for added insurance.

 

i also use crazy glue in the area of the heat shrink tube.

 

shouldnt come off until you cut it off.

[Brian Myers 0]

I have used them a long time , up until last year when one came off while I had decent smallie on. I had a spot of CA on the end of it and the heat shrink tubing over that . The thing pulled right off , luckily the the fish was close at hand and I was able to chase after and grab my leader. I'm done with them after that. Now I just nail knot a piece of heavy tippet with perfection loop on the other end to my line and put dab of pliobond or CA over the nail knot.

[Peterjay 0]

I've never had a problem with factory-installed braided loops in salt water, and I've given them some very hard use. In Trey Combs' book on offshore fishing, he recommends using braided monocore loops for tuna, marlin, etc. His method of attachment involves super glue (I think it's Loctite 406) and nail-knotting them down securely with hard nylon. If they'll stand up offshore, they'll stand up to anything. I would never trust heat shrink alone or over glue for a minute, and a powerful fish or other stresses can pull a nail knot right off the line along with the coating. If you want a bombproof knotted connection, a locked Allbright is a much better option. That said, I used nail knots successfully for many years in fresh water, but it was mostly for trout, where stress was minimal. Like just about everything else, there's no hard and fast rule that covers all types of fly fishing. Fishing for brook trout with a 7X tippet is vastly different from pulling a 15-pound musky out of the weeds with a 10wt.

[riffleriversteelheadslayer 0]

. Fishing for brook trout with a 7X tippet is vastly different from pulling a 15-pound musky out of the weeds with a 10wt.

Obviously you never been brook trout fishing with me