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Fly Tying


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About Jaydub

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    In a van down by the river

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  1. No, they are nothing alike. Danville is flat, Veevus 16/0 isn't. I have not tied with the 18/0 Semperfli. However I like their 12/0 waxed a lot.
  2. Wilted Spinach Hook: TMC 3761 size 14 Thread: Danville 6/0 red Tail: Two strands of pearl Krystal Flash tied in loops Abdomen: Orange dubbing blend Hackle: Partridge
  3. Sprout Midge Hook: TMC 2488 size 20 Thread: Semperfli 12/0 black Shuck: Black Antron Abdomen: Tying thread Post: White closed cell foam Hackle: Black Thorax: Black Superfine Mole Fly Hook: TMC 2487 size 18 Thread: Semperfli 12/0 brown Wing: Natural brown CDC Abdomen: Beaver dubbing
  4. Here is something I tied, maybe a decade ago. The idea came form a some website, maybe flyanglersonline? The "gravel" is something model railroaders use. It can be purchased at a store that caters to that hobby. I think I tried both Dave's Flexament and 5 minute epoxy. I don't remember which worked better. Basically you coat the body with adhesive, roll it in the "gravel", then form it with your fingers and cover any bare spots. I didn't fish this very much, opting for patterns with more traditional tying materials.
  5. 52 Buick Variation Hook: 2XL nymph Tail: Olive Chickabou (original calls for olive Guinea) Rib: Gold oval tinsel Abdomen: Olive dubbing Legs: Olive Brahma hen (original calls for olive Guinea) Head: Peacock herl
  6. That looks cool. Quicker and more uniform than a straight edge and rotary cutter or scissors.
  7. Darrell, The flies you've listed are a good start. I often fish a Bugger with a Callibaetis nymph trailing a couple feet behind along the edges of weed beds to locate fish. Callibaetis is by far the most common stillwater Mayfly. Several generations hatch through the season. They may start out as size 12 in the spring and get progressively smaller down to 16 or 18 by fall. A size 14 will work most of the time. Nymph, emerger, dun and spinner patterns all work at times. You can keep it simple with a Hare's Ear and Adams or Gulper Specials or tie up something more elaborate. Callibaetis Nymph Volcanic Callibaetis Damselfly Nymphs are productive especially during hatch time. Occasionally a dry adult Damselfly pattern can be a lot of fun. Purple Veil Damsel Cope's Damsel Don't overlook chironomid patterns under a slip-strike type indicator. Most people seem to coating chironomid patterns with UV resin now days, but I've had good luck without. The Chromie, Ice Cream Cone and the good old TDC have been good to me. Scuds, when present, are an important food source.
  8. I've always thought Beaver Pelt and Otter Nymph were close cousins. Coincidentally I tied some Otter Nymphs awhile back. This should have been in the December thread. Trueblood Otter Nymph (AKA Trueblood Shrimp) Originator: Ted Trueblood Hook: 1XL Wet Fly Weight: (Optional) lead or non-toxic wire Thread: Brown Tail: Brown Partridge Abdomen: Otter dubbing Beard: Brown Partridge
  9. I would not worry much about lead absortion by touch. Handling lead then licking your fingers might be a different story. If your concerned about these tools, I would clean them and wash your hands after using them. Years ago I worked in a facility that included people hand soldering electronic circuit boards. These people handled 40% lead solder all day long, every day. When tested none of them showed elevated lead levels.
  10. I concur with flytire on the ID. They appear to be dyed, since the color is uniform all the way to the butt end of quill.
  11. Davy McPhail's technique works well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdPCvwhlRFw
  12. I saw Darrell Martin demonstrate this method of tying dry fly quill wings many years ago. The method is credited to UK tier Donald Downs. 1. Cut a pair of wing slips, but instead of cutting the fibers off of the stem, cut through the stem, leaving them attached. 2. Measure the desired length against the hook shank. 3. Ignore the crappy picture. Pinch a loose loop of thread over the slips. Bring the thread around the hook and tighten by pulling up. 4. Secure the wing with a few more wraps. 5. Pull the wings into an upright position and wrap the thread to behind the wing. Then pull the butt ends back along each the side of the wing. 6. Wrap behind the wing to secure the butt ends. 7. Cut the butts on a taper and cover with thread. Note: The wings are only separated by their natural curvature. If you desire a more split wing, you may be able to separate them with a bodkin and add a drop of cement between them.
  13. Vise height ergonomics are not universal. Having a vise at eye level is great for visibility but it means reaching up and out while tying. That kills my upper back and shoulders in a fairly short period of time. I have my vise so my i can basically have my upper arms at my sides. That puts the vise slightly below chin level.
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