First Attempt at an ADAMs--- harder than it looks

[eric_sthjrsy 0]

Last week I read Silver Creeks post which included Charlie Craven wrote about proportions. I tried to implement that into trying out the AdamsUp until now its been streamers, zonkers, some simple nymphs, and an EHC. From what I have read the Adams is supposed to be a relatively easy fly to start out with BUT man this thing has been a pain in the butt(But Fun)

 

First question is, I used Pheasant tail fibers for the tail... is this an issue. It wasn't what the video called for, but it was much easier

to handle than the teeny tiny fibers from the hackle feathers I had (Mine all seemed very short to even try and handle). I guess after that I would just ask for any input. This was my third attempt and I feel already has drastically improved from my first. I am sure practice,

practice, practice will certainly help. ANY INPUT??

[Christopher K 0]

Not too bad for a first try! The adams was my worst fly for a long time, but now I actually enjoy tying them. First of all pheasant tail won't work as well as hackle fibres, they are too soft. If you have trouble with the hackle fibres try about 5 to 7 moose mane hairs stacked. I'd say your body is well done, a nice clean taper. Your brown hackle appears to be gauged correctly however your grizzly is about a hook gape too long. The hackle could also be about 2 turns of each colour denser. Your hackle tip wings should also be a hook shank in length, shorten them up and you should be fine. Now let's see the next one!

[Bryon Anderson 0]

I have never understood why the Adams is taught in beginning fly tying classes. It is NOT an easy fly for beginners to tie, with the mixed hackle, the feather-tip wings, and the three clumps of hackle fibers that have to be stacked for the tail. So, first of all, don't feel bad if it's giving you fits.

 

In regard to your question, yes, the pheasant tail fibers that you used for a tail will be an issue with the traditional collar hackled style Adams. The tail on that type of fly has to help balance the fly on the surface film of the water. Pheasant tail fibers are too soft to do this, especially after they get wet. That's why dry flies tied in that style typically use stiff hackle fibers or something like moose body hair for a tail. The moose hair is much easier to work with and only requires once small bunch to do the job. If you want the speckled look of the mixed hackle, I think I've seen versions that used badger hair. I personally use a coveted (and now illegal) bunch of mongoose hair. I think they also make MicroFibbets (artificial tailing material made from paintbrush bristles) in a mottled pattern. Or you could buy your own fine paintbrush and some permanent markers and make yourself a lifetime supply of these.

 

General suggestions --

 

1) Proportions. The tail should be the same length as the hook shank (from the back of the eye to where the hook starts to bend). Your wings should also be the same length as the shank. The hackle should be 1 1/2 times the gap (the vertical distance from the shank to the hook point).

 

2) the body - it should be smoothly tapered from the tail to the point where you tie in your hackles. Your first couple of turns of dubbing ahead of the tail look about the right diameter, but then the body abruptly grows to a much larger diameter, which is maintained all the way to the end. One suggestion here would be to not try and put enough dubbing on the thread to do the whole body all at once. Start with just a tiny bit -- you can always add more, but once it's on the thread, it's a pain to remove. Once you've done a few dozen flies, you'll get a feel for what the exact right amount of dubbing is. Until then, just do a little at a time -- that makes it easier to shape the body as you go. Also, only dub up to the point where you will tie the hackles in.

 

3) Hackles - Try to make your turns as close together as you can. This is much easier if you're wrapping the hackles on a base of thread instead of wrapping over dubbing. I try to do 2 turns of each color behind the wing and 2 in front. You can wrap the hackles at the same time or one at a time.

 

My last suggestion would be to consider tying your Adams parachute style. They are no harder to tie, you can use whatever you please for the wing and tail, and they look more realistic on the water. Just my $0.02 there.

 

Have fun and keep tying!

[singletrack 0]

I think overall this is a great start. The advice above is great. I would agree the grizzly hackle is to long it should match the brown hackle in length. Last night I just tied 2 dozen of these so funny you posted this. I would also suggest to go with the hackle tail it makes for a very nice fly when its done. I also noticed you ran dubbing under the hackle. I have always stopped my dubbing half way down the hook shank. I am not sure which pattern you were following I am sure this is a technique used but I feel like most people stop the dubbing. You should try to bulk tie 10 flies in the same pattern and size when learning a pattern it helps so much to do them all at once.

[eric_sthjrsy 0]

Thanks so far for the advice.. Single Track, I agree with trying to tie a bunch at a time, but 10 flies would probably take me 5 hours with this pattern lol..... I am gearing up to go to a 2 month long school with no TV or type of entertainment... needless to say I will be bringing my fly tying stuff and be able to put much more

time into it.

[utyer 0]

One other point that I didn't see mentioned: The wings. Try and find a grizzly hen for the wings. They will have a broader tip and give a much better wing shape. Rooster necks and saddles these days are too thin to make good hackle tip wings. Hair wings will also work quite well.

[phg 0]

If you have hair wings, and a moose tail, you've got a Thunderhead, not an Adams.

 

I can't really add anything. Just tighten it up. It all comes with practice.

[sandflyx 0]

you need this;

pm me if interested

 

[SilverCreek 0]

To tie a proper fly, you need the correct "type" of materials. They need NOT be the exact color. My view is that it is not very important to tie an exact "Adams". What is important is not the color of the body or the hackle or the wings.

 

It is much more important that the materials be the proper size and consistency than the correct color. For example, you used pheasant tail for the tailing fibers which is the wrong material. But the hackle you used to wind on the fly are long enough and stiff enough for tailing. Why not use them?

 

The hackle fibers you used are too long for the hook, so why use them? If you had shorter hackle even if they are the wrong color, I suggest you use those. You fingers don't care that they are the right color, but they do want to practice with the right size and consistency as you would use for a proper fly.

 

When you do get the right materials of the right color, you will have practiced and be able to tie a well made Adams.

[mvendon 0]

In a back issue of Fly Rod and Reel, A.K. Best did an article where he guessed there could be about 1, 400 plus variations of the original adams dry fly. Like most know, the original didn't look anything like the modern version does.

 

Regards,

Mark

[flytire 0]

since proportions are based on the hook, this is all you really need

 

 

 

 

 

read this again

 

http://www.flyfisherman.com/2013/12/13/tying-flies-beautiful-flies/

[Randyflycaster 0]

Just curious: Do you folks do a figure eight after you set the wings upright? I find that when I do this my wings

get knocked out of place.

 

Randy

[eric_sthjrsy 0]

Second attempt. Feels like it is getting better. The hackle lengths seems OK now, and there is no dubbing under the hackle this time..... the tail is hackle fibers now, although a little weak looking. Looks like maybe the body should extend forward a little bit. This go around

seemed like it was getting slightly easier. Will keep working on it!

[phg 0]

It's coming, but it still needs a lot of work. The tail isn't bad, although it should be mixed brown and grizzly. 9 to 12 fibers are about right for a size 12 hook (you didn't say what size you used.) A size 14 would take 7 to 9, a size 16 a bit less, etc. The hackle is too full, now. It should only occupy the front 1/3 of the hook. You've got a full 1/2 of the hook covered with hackle. As a consequence, your abdomen is too short. It should cover 2/3 the hook shank. For my tastes, the body is too fat as well, but that's just my preference.

 

The wing is still just a tad too long, but better than before. As you are using rooster hackle tips, they will be slender. The tricky thing is that hackle tip wings don't take as much space as other kinds of wings do. For hackle tip wings, I find that I want to mount them a bit further forward at the 3/4 mark. You've got them at approx 2/3, which leaves the thorax a bit long. It's OK to have some dubbing under the hackle in the thorax area, it helps the hackle set correctly.

 

For the hackle itself, there should be more turns in front of the wing than behind. Two turns behind the wing, of each color, is plenty. Balance that with 3 turns in front, and you'll have it about right. Keep the turns as close together as possible. The hackle length and color mix are good, though.

 

This fly will fish just fine, but I'm sure you can make it better.

[flytire 0]

copy me

 

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/details.cfm?parentID=56

 

yes its perfectly OK to use moose body hair for the tail!

 

check out the measurements described in step 3, 7 & 9.

 

the width of the grizzly hackle wings should equal the hook gap. in your example they are too skinny

 

read what charlie says about the number of hackle wraps in step 23. remember he is using 3 hackles but you can use only 2 hackles and the same number of turns for each one. 5 TOUCHING wraps behind, 4 TOUCHING wraps in front of the wing