Stevegud1 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2015 Took my first crack at a dry fly...size 18 BWO...wow, what a disappointment! After watching a ton of YouTube videos, and putting on the magnifying glasses, I did my best, but it doesn't look anything like the storebought one I grabbed for a model to mimic. I am not a novice at tying flies, but i am new at such a small dry fly. Any tips? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bellevue.chartreuse.trout 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2015 Tie a larger version first. A 16, 14, or 12? Got to hone the skills of each step and then try the size smaller. Try to use as few a turns of thread to hold and accomplish what you need to do. BCT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoebop 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2015 If you are like most of us, you will not be "happy" with the results of any fly that you tie for the first time. Even if it turns out OK it will get better the more times you tie it. Just keep at it you'll get the hang of it. Repetition is the key. "It's all in the wrist!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2015 One other thing, you need to downsize your materials. The hackle is obvious, but also the thread. I wouldn't try an 18 with anything larger than Uni-Thread 8/0. Veevus 12/0 or Gordon Griffiths 14/0 would be good choices too. Someone, recently (Flytier?), posted a side by side photograph of all those smaller threads. They are much the same size visually, but on a 18, or smaller, hook, 3-filiments thinner can make a difference. Mostly though, as the others have observed, it's just practice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevegud1 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2015 Thanks for the tips, guys. I did go to 8/0 for the thread size, and that was part of my problem. I either snapped it or accidentally cut it 3-4 times on that first fly. I will have to get better at that, and I really like the idea of starting with larger sizes first. Will have to do that right away. Shoe, I appreciate the Happy Gilmore reference....or was that the hips? Lol I will keep at it, but I didn't realize how bad my eyesight got until just then...ha ha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevegud1 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2015 Checked out my list, and I think I'll tie the #14 Quill Gordons before tackling the #18 BWOs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gramps50 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2015 I think I use more wraps than necessary to hold the material. I need to start counting my wraps so I'm consistent. Reading magnifiers and good lighting will help too. I agree tie the fly in a larger size to get the hang of it then scale it down. May want to work your way down and not make a big jump. Tie some in #12, then goto #14, then #16 you be the picture. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2015 Dang, breaking 8/0 Uni-Thread requires a pretty heavy hand! Yeah, I'd agree that a size 14 would be a better starting point, and get the bobbin tension correct. As a general rule, 3 winds of thread will hold any material in place. Reading glasses are a cheap accessory on your tying desk. Practice, practice, practice. Keep at it, and good luck! Post a picture, or two, when you get something you aren't unhappy with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2015 If you keep breaking the thread, check your bobbin. the tips can get a knick ... or if it's ceramic, it can be cracked ... which will cut the line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adam Saarinen 0 Report post Posted February 19, 2015 I met Barry Ord Clarke last year at the Finnish fly expo, really nice guy! I mentioned to him i used to use to much dubbing on my small flies, then i started to work with the principal if i think there is not enough dubbing? There is probably already to much! He said that is a excellent way to work! Also remember not to croud the eye from the start! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thursthouse 0 Report post Posted February 19, 2015 what mikechell said.... I bought a cheap bobbin when I started and because of that piece of garbage (constantly breaking my thread at various stages of the pattern) I almost quit tying before I really started. Finally got a ceramic bobbin and haven't looked back since Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 There are two things to say, Make only the minimum number of wraps of thread, and watch some of Hans Weilenmann's videos. You'll not find better instruction, or a better tier of small dry flies. Cheers, C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevegud1 0 Report post Posted February 22, 2015 If you keep breaking the thread, check your bobbin. the tips can get a knick ... or if it's ceramic, it can be cracked ... which will cut the line. Nah, it was because I was catching the thread on the hook point. Small-@$$ hooks were making it hard to bring it around. I'll get used to it...if I don't burn through all of my hooks first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crazy4oldcars 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2015 (edited) Well crap! I messed that up. This is in response to Steve's comment about burning thru hooks. Razor blades are your friend. I tied 5 flies i=on the same hook the other night before I got one I was happy with. Once you have learned what you did wrong on it, it has served its purpose. Kirk Edited February 24, 2015 by crazy4oldcars Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevegud1 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2015 Thanks, Crazy...actually, I have been sticking them in my box, and I'll hold a beauty contest later to see which get razor-ed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites