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artimus001

uv resin challenge

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Artie

 

LinasUV resin has been talked about on numerous fly tying forums as an alternative to the name brand resins for quite a number of years so don't go thinking you're the first to stumble on it

 

There are threads dating back to 2012 regarding lina brand resin

 

I'm sorry the smoke signals didn't reach you up there in the great white north or wherever you are in Canada just yet

 

Other than the cost of lets round it up for talking purposes of $3 vs $15 you win the argument on that one but to continually throw cheaper cheaper cheaper into our faces is getting quite stale and obnoxious

Art, Artie, Arthur, Artimus. i've been called them all.

 

links would be nice.

 

being cheaper is one of it's strongest points. sorry to say, it stays for us more common people.

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if i needed to put my flies in a dark space as soon as they were tied, then i would need a 10sec uv.

 

 

 

If your resin doesn't instantly set up it WILL NOT WORK for a wide variety of applications.

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Artie

 

Cure time could be a deal breaker here honestly... For me anyway. Time is money at the vise for me. Also, cure time could render the nail stuff utterly useless in some applications. When I tie Low Fat Minnows with a solid resin head I apply the resin and use my rotary vise as a "turner" until the resin is nice an distributed around the hook. At this point I zap it with my UV light and it's set instantly. To make your method work, I'd need a $$$$$ fly dryer, and a $$$$ stationary UV lamp. I'll buy Loon Flow for $13.

what ever method you throw at it fails at, then so it be. it might score a 5 in some attributes, and 3's in other. taking me out of the equation for series of controlled test by a third party is nothing more then what i could have asked for.

 

for your Low Fat Minnow i would think something like this might work:

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3-PCS-Color-UV-BUILDER-GEL-CLEAR-WHITE-PINK-NAIL-ART-False-Tips-SALON-Tool-Set-/321773795690?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4aeb36796a

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/All-Season-UV-Nail-Gel-Clear-Thick-2-oz-/231467122196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e483fe14

 

my best bet is the either one of these uv's would be sag free with the amount of light that gave the fly in the this video that Curtis posted:

. exercising the lotion or SHHN option should leave you with the same results (i will include lotion and SHHN tests with the resin that i have). a light box quite possibly would leave you with a tack-free finish with the either of the gels that i posted.

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if i needed to put my flies in a dark space as soon as they were tied, then i would need a 10sec uv.

 

 

 

If your resin doesn't instantly set up it WILL NOT WORK for a wide variety of applications.

 

would 'setting up' be defined as when the resin sets to the point that the concern of resin flowing or sagging is removed?

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"10 sec tack free vs 10 min tack free? simple answer 10 min all the way. what happened to the rest of my questions?


if you feel that using a secondary light source to finish is a minus for the Lina resin and a plus your yours; then just say so."



yes, I need one light.



finally i would like to ask you is there any other tests that you would like me to perform? i'm asking for the tests that you know the Lina resin will fail miserably at. i want your best one-two combination knockout for performance, cost aside.


i have been quick to respond to any of your questions, yet you seem to be dodging most of mine it seems.



Sure, Perform the "does it cure tack free in under 30 seconds test."


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yes, I need one light.

"ONE LIGHT TO CURE THEM ALL." i think i've already seen this movie already, lol. as it stands right now, my 9w nail light is the only light that i'm using at this point. sag-free in 10 sec/tack-free in 10min.

 

 

Sure, Perform the "does it cure tack free in under 30 seconds test."

no it doesn't. i think that i have posted that evaluation already somewhere. i think a lot of resins aren't tack free after 10sec as well.

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THE DROPPING OF THE UPPERCASE LETTER FROM MY NAME I WILL NOT STAND FOR!!!! lol it's no the first time that it has happened, and it won't be the last. lmao.

 

i was specific about any threads in the past year on this site, and you bring me this??? truly laughable in all aspects (IMO), lol. the best part???

 

Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Connecticut, USA
Posts: 759
reputation_pos.gif
icon1.gifRe: UV Glue/Resin
when its out, the sun makes an excellent curing light!
you recommending an alternative light source, lol.

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None of these "evaluation" take into account the amount of product being cured. Curing the shell back of a small freshwater fly is a lot different than curing a 2/0 Surf Candy.

 

for heavier applications would would suggest using a uv nail gel such as this:

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/181437193480?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480408811677&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I suggest you use a thicker version of the UV Resin you use. For example, CCG Thick or CCG Tack Free or Loon Thick. It does not matter what brand you use as long as it works for you and help you get the results you want.

 

This is a great thread, but I do not see anything good coming out. If you look at Kirks test on Popper Coating, that was a fare test that he did and showed what he experienced. I do not see how any testing done with the above "Guidelines" will get an unbiased test. The biggest problem these tests are going to have is what light to use and time to cure. Not all UV Resins cure at the same wavelength and intensity. (lets not get into the light debate)

 

The only way to test these products is to develop a test criteria including some of the below:

  • Get fresh samples of each in various viscosities and the light from the manufacture with new batteries. Ideally transfer all samples into a generic bottle with generic labels and then give that to the tester.
  • Develop a Cost/Mil and total cost for say 60ml(can be any number - a fare representation of what an average tier would use in say 2 years) + Light + Battery + Any Other Manufacture Recommended Supplies.
  • Classify them by viscosity - Thick, Thin, Very Thin (i.e. Hydro and Flow) and Flexible.
  • Make three different test beds/flies in various sizes. Could be as simple as shell casing/back, thread head/wraps and Surf Candy
  • Test on a glass surface for transparency, hardness, tackiness and cure time.
  • Devise a test for "tackiness" and "Slime" and what is done to remove it or mask it or does it go away in time.
  • Test them for Hardness after fully cured.
  • Devise a Time to Final cure state, not necessarily to tack free state.
  • Compare results for Devcon 5min and Devcon 30min epoxy since it is once of the longest used epoxy resins around.

As you can see, making a fare and level testing field is not a simple task, NOR IS WHAT I LISTED ABOVE IS A COMPLETE CREATE TO CREATE A LEVEL TESTING FIELD.

 

When all is said and done, It does not matter what brand you use as long as it does what you need and helps you solve and enhance you tying needs.

 

post-1614-0-50639200-1434035177_thumb.jpgpost-1614-0-94259300-1434035177_thumb.jpeg

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It does not matter what brand you use as long as it works for you and help you get the results you want.

 

 

 

 

 

This is a great thread, but I do not see anything good coming out. If you look at Kirks test on Popper Coating, that was a fare test that he did and showed what he experienced. I do not see how any testing done with the above "Guidelines" will get an unbiased test. The biggest problem these tests are going to have is what light to use and time to cure. Not all UV Resins cure at the same wavelength and intensity. (lets not get into the light debate)

 

The only way to test these products is to develop a test criteria including some of the below:

  • Get fresh samples of each in various viscosities and the light from the manufacture with new batteries. Ideally transfer all samples into a generic bottle with generic labels and then give that to the tester.
  • Develop a Cost/Mil and total cost for say 60ml(can be any number - a fare representation of what an average tier would use in say 2 years) + Light + Battery + Any Other Manufacture Recommended Supplies.
  • Classify them by viscosity - Thick, Thin, Very Thin (i.e. Hydro and Flow) and Flexible.
  • Make three different test beds/flies in various sizes. Could be as simple as shell casing/back, thread head/wraps and Surf Candy
  • Test on a glass surface for transparency, hardness, tackiness and cure time.
  • Devise a test for "tackiness" and "Slime" and what is done to remove it or mask it or does it go away in time.
  • Test them for Hardness after fully cured.
  • Devise a Time to Final cure state, not necessarily to tack free state.
  • Compare results for Devcon 5min and Devcon 30min epoxy since it is once of the longest used epoxy resins around.

As you can see, making a fare and level testing field is not a simple task, NOR IS WHAT I LISTED ABOVE IS A COMPLETE CREATE TO CREATE A LEVEL TESTING FIELD.

 

When all is said and done, It does not matter what brand you use as long as it does what you need and helps you solve and enhance you tying needs.

 

attachicon.gifnonpareils-candy.jpgattachicon.gifth.jpeg

 

my end goal is to show that there is another uv option that fulfills your opening statement, and one that isn't going to break the bank.

 

i asked Kirk to join the challenge which he did. my hope is that he would put the Lina uv through the same torture tests he did the other uv's.

 

lights source does matter, imo. uv rays are 400 nm to 100 nm. in length. it appears that most uv's cure between 365 to 400nm. whether it is a laser, led, or florescent tube as a source makes a difference as well a wattage.

the manufactures keep it all one big secret as at what wavelength their uv cures at, to sell their lights. it wouldn't take a whole lot of share of opinions and experiences to develop other options besides manufacture spec'd lights.

 

your layout for a test is excellent. it would provide data that is equally comparable. my goal is only too get the word out. no charts, pie graphs, or areas to colour for me, lol.

Ski Canda Magazine does a ski shootout at the beginning of every season. the skis are masked to cover the graphics, so the skis are judged on performance alone. it is i believe the most comprehensive, respected tests out there to review the newest skis for each now season. your test would provide results that are just as comprehensive, and respectable.

 

When all is said and done, It does not matter what brand you use as long as it does what you need and helps you solve and enhance you tying needs. learning how to save a buck or two never hurts either.

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Lights are biggest key to all of the UV Acrylics. The problem you will have in your "test" is are we comparing apples to apples if you use different lights? I have found that most UV Acrylics cure between 395-400. The problem that manufactures face is the balance between the resin and the photooptic activator. They can balance the curing properties with mixing ratios and the light and intensity/power. The only fare comparison you can do is one the uses the manufactures light and their Light Cured Acrylic.

 

I think a lot of this would have been simpler if you just said. "Hay I found this stuff and it works for me and it cost this. Why don't you give it a try. It works for me with this light." The creation of a "test" to prove you can save money is simple, look at my receipt to see what I paid and look at what this stuff does. No need to bring others into it.

 

I played with this stuff a long time ago and found that I was better served at that time by CCG because they had all the formats that I needed, it worked for my applications and I could get it from my main distributor. I also did a study to see if any Light Cured Acrylics were worth using in my commercial tying. Most of the flies I evaluated proved it was more expensive in time and materials. Look at what Loon is doing with their line of light cured acrylics. The only thing they are missing is a flex.

 

Waiting patiently for the "test" results.

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Art, it wasn't a torture test. I applied each resin to a few bream sized popper heads, timed the cure touching frequently and divided to get average. Nothing really scientific. I'll do the same with this stuff. Pretty simple.

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Art, it wasn't a torture test. I applied each resin to a few bream sized popper heads, timed the cure touching frequently and divided to get average. Nothing really scientific. I'll do the same with this stuff. Pretty simple.

raspy little teeth, lol.

 

great to hear the Lina is going to receive the same test.

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with the critical mass this subject has generated, and two independent tests pending; i will no longer be needing the test group to submit their thoughts. thank you all that were willing to join me in the deep end of the pool :) p/ms have been sent to all the testers.

 

thnx again, Art

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