Rustyspinner

The Keystone Flyfishers, based in Western Pa are having an open house on March 25th. If you live in the area, feel free to stop by. For more information, go to www.geocities.com/keystoneflyfishers Thanks, Rusty

An old microwave turntable motor will also work very well. Most are 7rpm motors and are easily adapted. I picked up an old microwave at a thrift store for about five bucks, and along with some wood scraps and a simple on/off switch and I was in business. I use home insulating foam to hold my flies. see the attached photo

I just finished a new realistic. I wanted to make it using nothing but thread and foam. I am happy with the results, but the coloring could have been better.

My contribution went out in the mail yesterday

I will get my "Bob Mead inspired ladybug" out in the mail first thing on Monday. Take Care, Warren

Wal-Mart sells a UV light for about 10 bucks. It's in the sporting good dept and is sold I believe for tracking animals. It clips on your hat and comes with batteries. I use mine to charge glow in the dark flies, and also with my knot sense. Much cheaper than the Loon light and just as effective.

I notice that I need to make fine adjustments more often with my peak, but when adjusted correctly, I have never had any hook slipping problems. The adjustment knob has a very loose adjustment to it, I do wish it was a little harder to adjust the jaw tension as that would solve the above problem. It's just a minor problem to a great vise!

Check out the bag that Bass Pro Shops sells. It will hold a ton of stuff including your vise and a small lamp and I believe it is still under 40 bucks. I have had mine for three years of heavy use and it is still in great shape. Fishpone Coyote is another great option, but is pretty expensive.

Thanks for the info...my realistic will be on the way soon. Rusty

I would like to get in on this. Please let me know where I need to send my realistic.

Shezli's post above gives the best advice. Take the time to get to know your thread and it will really improve your tying. Thread control is everything when tying flies and knowing the breaking strength of your thread is maybe the most important part of that. To tie a very durable fly, you must tie in your material right up to the breaking strength, but not past it. Knowing when to stop really helps. As stated above, take a few minutes to tug on your thread and break it on purpose. Most beginners start out with heavier thread and I am not sure that is the best thing in the long run as they tend to have problems later on as they go smaller. When I teach flytying, I have my student use 6/0 thread for maybe the first night, then go to 8/0 thread (teaching mostly trout patterns). I feel that it helps develop thread control much sooner that way. Your opinion may vary. Good topic

Pick up a spool of Macreme yarn at any craft shop or thrift store. Most spools are 100 yards of braided poly yarn (4 braids, so 400 yards total). The most I paid was 7 bucks a spool at a craft store. Mostly you can pick it up for 99 cents at a thrift store.

I make these all the time. I use regular craft foam in 2mm and 3mm sizes. I cut the foam with pinking shears that have a jagged effect to them then use a razor blade to cut the slits. You can use a sharpie marker to mark your razor blade as a guide to get uniform slits. I then glue them to a piece of stiff plastic sheeting cut to the size of the container I am putting them into. Using some velcro to secure it to the container will allow you to interchange your sheets. You can make a bunch of the sheets, but only need one or two boxes. Once you get the hang of it, it only takes a half hour or so to do a couple sheets. Good Luck, Warren

Thanks everyone! for your kind words. I am working on another, hope to have it done in a few weeks. Warren

Here is a dragonfly that I have been working on for the last few weeks. It is more impressionistic than a real species. I am working on a species specific pattern right now. Hope you enjoy it. http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j55/Rust...pg?t=1166496150 http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j55/Rust.../dragonfly6.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j55/Rust.../dragonfly9.jpg

Uffe, I treat my thread with Flexament or thinned Goop. The thread keeps it's shape, but remains flexible also. Take Care, Warren

I tend to go with treated sewing thread for my fishable realistics. I treat a few feet of it at a time and that will tie up a few dozen flies. Warren http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j55/Rust...pg?t=1164347029

Pick up Paul Whillock's book "Flies as Art" It will answer all your realistic tying questions and get you started the right way. You can always adjust his techniques to match your style, but his ideas are very sound! Good luck with your legs.

Just go out and purchase a cheap set of allen wrenches. There is a wide range of sizes and they work well. The painted eye goes on round by the way even though the wrenches are not round. For a buck or two you have instant eye painting tools.

any updates on the Camel Spider?

Check out Fly Fishing Pressured Waters by Lloyd Gonzales. I think it is what your looking for

Graham, I had the same problem with my Dyna-King Supreme a few years ago. It just shows that the dyna king can take a beating. I wouldn't trade mine (I have three of them) for the world! Take Care,

Graham, the Spider looks incredible but man your vise is beat up Well used I should say. can't wait to see the finished product

Get the extension arm, you won't regret it!

Mark me down for one Steel 2XL Thanks,