knotjoe

Yeah, same here and it's the first thing I did when I bought the new phone just to see if the connection is the difference. It's appears to be the iPhoneSE, the MBP and iPhone6 described in opening post still work without the process described above. Apple phones differ a surprising bit in how they do things. Some of this might be a quirk in the latest Safari and may very well correct itself or be different in the next software update. Now, I do know what niveker speaks of because I have several hotspots (cellular) and some MVNO's do have quirks with them which can alter website appearance and function quite a bit. For awhile, I had to drop MTU on MBP settings from 1500/auto to 1492 or some lower number to even get the connection to work in this part of the country with ST hotspot. With any tech gadgets, I'm always looking for a bag of tricks to deal with whatever strangeness comes up next. And there's always something.🙄

Notorious FTF thread nav buttons work just fine on my 2015 MBP (OS X El Capitan 10.11.6) and 2015 iPhone 6 (12.4.8) with one press taking it to the next page. With my new iPhone SE (13.6.1), no dice. 😖 Here’s what does work and it’s only one extra screen action to get to the next page. It’s similar to the cut/copy/paste press & menu option on text, but when you do it over a “potentially functional” navigation button it gives you different pop-up menu options. See below... This is much easier to do than going back to the topic list and selecting the next page number to read. Also give ability to flip back & forth between pages easily because tabs stay open on iPhone, something we do on occasion when crafting a comment or response. So give it a shot if you are encountering nav button issues, gents. Can’t speak for any other devices or OS capabilities, but I suspect most of them have features of similar nature and may provide a simple workaround. The FTF nav buttons probably work on many if not all systems/devices, just not always on one direct click. We may have to use hover (or click, click&hold, etc) to get a menu pop-up for opening in a new tab depending on device. One caveat is that you will open many extra tabs in the background using this technique, but FTF tabs are rather polite and don’t try to stay live and drain battery like some ad heavy background tabs do elsewhere on the web. One can clear individually with the corner X’s or just hold tab key (lower corner of screen) and clear all at once when done browsing. Test your stuff and report back here to help others if you are inclined, never hurts to list device and current OS while doing so.

May never, but there's an powerful energy and inspirational element that comes along with shiny new toys.👍 Of course you know this, your name is Pbass and you mentioned the wife tolerating "musician addictions". New vices are a lot like new guitars, they want to be played with constantly and help us improve. Both have a very grabby aura and you can't just walk past them in a room, you must engage them for a bit with great frequency. Just how it is with some things.

I do somewhat, but only with the heavier streamers. For small stuff, I never really saw a need because so much depends on materials and tying style that knowing the precise weight of the bead (or eyes) doesn’t tell me much. I’m much more relative on the lighter end of streamers simply by tying same fly, different weights. That last part up there has certainly been worth the effort on many days, very worth doing whether you know exact weight or not. Just have lighter and heavier, maybe an inbetweener on same chassis and fly recipe. Sometimes when folks go heavier, they feel compelled to go bigger. It can work, but the increase in material also tends to cancel-out the extra weight in drift speed, sinkrate, or both. Flytackle has some pretty low limits on reasonable weights to sling so if I’m gonna go there I want the max sink rate and control in at least a few ideas. Long time fan of small, but heavy craws and buggers. I like using the smallest indy possible when indicating, so getting max depth/control in current using as little weight as possible is very alluring. Smaller streamers maximize effect of whatever weight used, it takes too much added weight for the bigger stuff and the resultant effective indy size can get pretty ridiculous. Sucks to cast, too. Unless you are really stuck on proportions, you can probably use tungsten beads alone in various sizes for your #16 Zebra idea. With light tippets, you will likely notice a big difference just in two or three sizes. Nice to have same fly in "super light" for the frog water and slow slacky shallows, brass is very nice for that purpose.

You certainly are patient and calculating in your manufacturer disputes here. By the time you address this issue with them, they may have a new model out and ready to go.😆 OK...not saying this is your fault, but I can kinda see what avenue they (Bobbin folks) may take with you when you describe this problem to them. Sometimes when we tie under higher tension, we inadvertently squeeze the bobbin hand too much and it racks the spool holding part. You can damage a bobbin this way depending on the design. Could also happen the way you imply if the thread is coming off the spool on the non-secured end of the spool and it creates enough leverage against the attached side. I have a light use bobbin with little brass balls for spool holding and frequently forget and squeeze too hard dislodging the spool.😡 I consider this my "training and reminder" bobbin for where to properly grasp a bobbin under higher tensions. Many of them just aren't designed well for squeezing. Again, not saying it is the case for you, just something to prepare yourself for if this anticipated conversation ever takes place. They might be cool and replace it, but they do have some wiggle room on arguments here. I really dig the other bobbin styles suggested in this thread, the flat spot handles are reminiscent of "thumb bobbin" design and effectively stabilize the bobbin without needing to squeeze the thread carriage. More surface area=good thing.

Thanks, chugbug27! I was wondering about the Clouser/Cam series on that very issue. Most of the photos I could find typically show the lever in wide open position and it tells little of the movement range. If the Cam series can get to flush/nearly flush with the arm, it certainly makes the that particular Renzetti idea very appealing. Nice price on the Traveler series, too.

I grabbed these photos off the web with absolutely no permissions, so someone should get credit for them. Casey Smart on the first, CGG (StripersOnline) for the second pic. To me, this represents probably the best solution for long streamers and doesn't involve the obnoxious cam levers in the material space. No idea if Renzetti still makes simple screw-downs, but I'm gonna keep an open mind toward them if they do. They seem to have gone "cam crazy" like everyone else. PBass, if you can do something like the above concepts with a Clouser arm on your vise, you've probably got the best solution partially done accomplished right in front of you.

Personally, I’m looking at the Regal Revolution with some optimism if I were to buy another vise. I like the extra room on straight jaws and Regal puts all the lever crap on the side of the jaws (for the most part). Cams levers are great until you flip it over and it’s in the way of materials, same for offset jaws at an angle. Clouser Minnow vise concepts (Renzetti) are pretty sweet, too. If you can grab a non-cam option it would be near perfect for long streamers. Clean and roomy! Cams aren’t inherently bad, just the location is in bad areas for access and intrusion on long winging materials. Below is some quick & crappy snaps of what I do now, even with the straight Patriot jaws the big ‘ol cam lever is annoyingly in the way when rotated. Really dumb placement on a rotary vise if you ask me because it gets in the way when doing the long top wing, easier just to flip the darn fly instead of rotating and fighting with the lever intrusion. Tests my patience on closure wraps and even fiber distribution around shank when trying to get proper lay. Untrimmed streamers can be quite floppy as with as anything having legs left long for tie-back conveniences so space + material clip options is essential. Patriot is good up top for this, underneath is the big nasty lever though. Griffin Odyssey (and most offsets) are awesome for little flys, way too cramped and crooked for longer stuff. While I've done it in the past, one can see how lack of space is a huge issue even for simple top/bottom tie fiber minnows. Won't even address in detail large craw patterns and big in-the-rounds for this vise (SUCKS!). Whatever you choose, I suggest long straight and narrow jaws with minimal protrusions in the material space. There ain’t many options when ya get right down to it and they’re all pricey (but, IMO, probably worth it).

Whichever way you want!😉 However, I would agree with Brian Myers on the hook down most part claim. Reason we elaborate on this issue a bit is because it’s not 100% of the time due to variability in tying and hook choice. Many folks on FFing forums have issues with buggers and even Clousers not riding the way they desire. If you have trouble, just explore the ideas above and correct the issue to your liking. One thing that applies to all orientation aspects is to use the lightest tippet you can get away with so it doesn’t interfere with the natural orientation of your fly underwater. If you want more specific information, it never hurts to state hook style/size (it really helps).

Not entirely certain what you are wanting to ensure, are you wanting to ride hook up or hook down with the bullet/bead version? If wanting to ride hook up like the barbell eyes, the easiest way is to do a pullback belly and form a keel to keep proper orientation. Below is an older experimental “bullet” craw which is basically a winged synth-bugger, but even with the wing it still requires the keel to ride only hook up with any consistency. If you want hook DOWN on bead/bullethead, use straight-eye hook (slightly oversized with heavy bend) and trim a bit of material on the keel side of the body. IOW, create the opposite keel of what you see in the above pictures. You can do pullback bellies for downriding keels, but they are kinda tough with the hook point in the way. Trimming is easier. With any kind of heavy dubs or palmered materials, you almost always have to take bold measures to control how the fly rides underwater. It'll look a bit different from what you envision, but it'll ride the way you wish every time. Do note that many while many apparent hook down trout nymphs have a huge steel to material ratio, some of those can even flip hook up in actual fishing quite often just by the wing case + belly legs creating a keel effect.

Now that folks can actually register and join the site again, I’ll venture a guess things will pick-up in the future with regard to new membership and participation. I’ve visited this site for quite some time and only recently was able to register and join. Some folks quit trying after while, they may try again later or they may not. It’s a consequence of spam attack shutdowns. Didn’t intend to imply you were stirring things up, just that I couldn’t find any evidence of folks who were run-off or discouraged by unwanted criticism. I’ll take your word on the private conversations and no reason not to shoot for improvement if one thinks it possible. 👍 As for the ladies? Know plenty who love to fish, not a single one really into the fishing/tying conversation and forum thing. Color me skeptical of this quest because it’s just not a draw for them. A few do blog, some prefer smaller club forums, but overall not likely in a wide reaching public forum. I’ll postulate they “prefer a more intimate setting” on these matters or at least one more germane to their participant interests locally.

Yeah, Poopdeck...I hit that one all the time as well. If there’s several pages, I’ll invariably end up in the OP’s profile trying to hit a page number.

Maybe not the total reason, but probably the most frequent and typical reason. Depends on what the default is on link saved. Yours may look more like below if you can save the version as such. The button circled toggle between the style in the first photo I posted and the version below. Pretty cool software and it allows for nice customization of view options, many prefer the version closer to "full site" despite the cramped link buttons on cellphone sized devices w/touchscreen. If you want similar visits to your Youtube channel, send Mark Knapp $500.00 and he'll change profile and last post links to be redirects to the video channel. Everyone with a fat thumb is gonna learn how to tie a fine fly!😊 (it's a monthly fee, BTW)

Some of it has to do with cellphone browsing and (errant) thumb presses. The close proximity of last post and profile on a cellphone screen often results in a miss or overshoot. IOW, accidental profile views when trying to go to last post in a thread. See below, then look at your phone screen, you'll understand. Also, your avatar looks smaller than it is due to background color matching forum default. In reality, the active area is the same as the typical round circle avatars like mine. Folks think there is more space between and overshoot with the thumb press, hitting the active profile area.

For me, other. While the first five reasons do pertain to me, it’s more about broadening my own horizons with regard to materials, techniques, and general information. There’s always something new on the flytying horizon and this place is the best source for information and discussion on it. Takes the place of what used to be great print magazines long ago. Nicest thing about any discussion forum is it often becomes a round robin style panel of ideas, opinions, and perspectives on any given subject. Singular authority can be useful, but it often overlooks or misses something in it’s certainty and once a book or article is written, that’s it. All told, it’s flytying and pertains not only to flyfishing for me, but to all other tackles I fish with. The “craft” is the crux of it all, so to speak. I make the vast majority of terminal tackle I fish with at the vise so crossover has become the norm.

I think the site is just fine the way it is/was Given the stated premise by moderators that “nothing is changing, it’s just current principles being put into written terms” this is a rather perplexing array of questions for a poll. If there was an option of “This poll is a solution looking for a problem” I might have chosen that one for my vote.😆 Why? I simply googled flytyingforum and constructive criticism and clicked more results like these. Google will dump upon you well over a decade of politely stated and worded responses to forum submissions, questions, and displays of work. This is impressive, try it and see. Here’s a bit of thought on reality and flytying which may offend some, but I think it’s pretty accurate. Fly submissions, in many cases, are not only displays of fish catching attributes or pure functionality. This is especially true of named & famed recipes which often are functional, but also have a history of tradition and are often evaluated (at least partially) as an art form. Once a person submits their example of a named and known pattern, that is an undeniable declaration of their pursuit of proper proportion, color, and material usage. Follows logically such submissions will be evaluated and commented on accordingly. The attributes addressed or critiqued in a given submission may or may not have anything to do with how well the fly functions and fishes, but those criteria were accepted by the tier who submitted the named and described recipe. If easily offended, make up your own darn flies or recipes and tell us why they’re great. Full disclosure, I’m a warmwater bass/bluegill kinda guy at the vise and we really don’t have these issues often. For the aspiring troutsman at the vise, they need to understand that they are tacitly accepting these critiques and associated evaluative criteria when they chose to submit well known recipes. It’s a different type of tying and often has an inseparable academic rigor associated with it. No pain, no gain, know that going in if anything less than 100% positive approval hurts and always remember indifference hurts worse than anything in the long run.

Interesting premise, but I think Chell's words o' wisdom are more realistic. The internet offers a rather diverse slice of human psychology and some folks interpret just about anything as an attack. Hence my mention of gratification motives earlier. You just never know. BTW, do these waders make me look fat?😯 Love the first part, good life strategy in general. Works for me. As for the second postulate, it can be near impossible to know how another person is going to interpret or what they may read into something we post. Sometimes you don't even know if they're really asking what they appear to be asking. Either way, some folks are probably gonna need to grow a thicker skin if they're feeling offended a bit too often. It's flyfishing, it has it's share of historical accuracy watchdogs, and many of our most precious and "original" ideas ain't always that original. Often, it really is just another wooly bugger. Other times, seemingly minor details can be huge digressions in some named, famed, and described recipes with folks taking efforts to correct and inform. Regardless of any intent, I think it naturally ends up being the responsibility of the participants not to feel butthurt.

Does this apply to proper fish handling, general safety precautions, and matters of ethics and legality? I get the part where one can "ask if someone is open to critique" but if such critique might be deemed unflattering a person may refuse or decline accepting input publicly. Could be PM'd, but then we'd lose the benefit of the thread readership learning something from the critique. IOW, it'd never see the light of day if the OP was more into the gratification aspects of posting. I don't personally have an issue withholding critique, just that I have admittedly learned a lot from others unsolicited critiques as annoying as they may have been to the original poster. There's a lot of "Wow, I never thought about it that way!" which occurs in internet discussion threads.

I do the same sometimes, depending on the fly and bead size I may tie in a short piece of non-lead wire underneath to stabilize the bead. Fits nicely into the slot and keeps the bead locked down. Thought I was the only one annoyed by wandering beads.😊

Clouser minnow or anything with dumbbell eyes and a stable orientation at speed. If you're doing this with topwater, something like a slider. Poppers and even some divers will spin. You can also achieve the same stability with an oversize hook on streamers.

These and the resin/epoxy ants Silvercreek has posted pics on from time to time always looked like the go-to mossy rock/algae flies. So easy to wipe green slop off of smooth bodies like these relative trying to clean it off dubbed bodies. Same for wet cottonwood gobs. If there was ever a technique which extolled the virtues and "need" for a rotary vise, you very nicely demonstrated it in this video. Nice job.

Indeed, I happen to be a big fan of Daiichi 1730 for craws. However, most bent hooks are similar with the bend around mid shank. The combination of attributes in giaccipop’s hook looks like a modification with regard to the bent part. Could be production run, but I’ve never seen it and can’t find it. Cool hook, though!

I'm kinda wondering if there's a reason it was the last one, specifically because the bend shown below at the yellow arrow looks a lot like an "end user" bend. I do the same to hooks with cone nosed jewelry pliers to get similar effects when desired. Do you have any existent ties on this hook style which can be razored to verify other hooks have such a shape? I'm not meaning to question your authority on your own materials, but that's a strange shape for a production design. Even if it is was an intentional design and no longer available, there's still plenty of substitutes (great suggestions already given) which are easily modified with wire pliers (cone nosed, cylindrical, etc) should you be so inclined. Anymore, I just get as close as I can on purchased style and alter from there. In full agreement with you on how hook shape can really make a pattern shine and refuse to be stymied by "discontinued product lines". Bend 'em your way! Edit to add...if you are going to DIY this shape, just look for Limerick bend and match it to the shank length and eye angle. If you noticed, most curved shanks are straight eye and the td eye hooks are typically shorter. Start with the closest td eye/straight shank Limerick and you got it.

BHouk, I needn't look at your profile to see where you live. It's a Hoosier thang and not going away anytime soon, it's the same folks who DON'T know it's legal to turn right on red unless specified otherwise. They suck in either position...which is not as good as it sounds.☺️

Well then, you're set! You may also appreciate this approach if you ever fish in hip boots as exhibited in skeet3t's quote below... It's the "for the most part" concept I seem to have a problem with. I always have to take it one step too far on the retrieval attempt and here comes the cold, wet leg thing. The crappy sacrificials are just so much easier to pop-off and stay dry while wading in hippers. Sloppy flytyers probably live longer in some regions on account of this alone, retrieval attempts can get downright dangerous on well tied flies.😟