Jump to content
Fly Tying
Lance Kekel

Spinning Deer Hair

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for feedback from some of those experienced in tying deer hair divers and bass bugs. I just had a GREAT day getting educated in the world of tying deer hair with Chris Helms. They guy is just an excellent teacher!!

 

Early in the class one thing became painfully clear. My pedestal mount Renzetti traveler was far from up to the task for this adventure. Chris was able to quickly set me up with a C-clamp vise for the class so all was good and I finally was able to tie a deer hair bug that wasn't an embarrasement!! However, I still have a longer term problem. The other vises I have are an old Thompson A and a Nor-vise. With three other Nor-Vise owners in the class the general consensus is neither of those will do the job either. So it looks like I'm in the market for yet another vise! :yahoo:

 

I have one limitiation to work around, I can't use a clamp on vise, there is no place on my tying desk to clamp it to. SO the question is who as experience in tying these beastly flies on pedestal mount vises and which ones have you used that you've been happy with? I was thinking something in the Dynaking line with the x-large 5 lb base. Will this work reliably?????

 

Help!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Peak vise with the big white pedestal base. That thing is very heavy and stable, it has never moved on me no matter how hard I cranked on the thread. In my opinion it's one of the best deals for the money out there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use my Peak vise with the pedestal base to do my deer hair work. I don't have any problems with the vise moving and I've been known to break hooks from pulling too hard :flex: (fat guy don't know his own strength :P ). I love my Peak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, and I have the saltwater jaws for my Peak but I have never had to use them, even when I tied deer hair bugs up to size 3/0. I just love this vise!!!! I have the clamp for it, too, because when I bought it I was afraid the pedestal wouldn't be stable enough, even with the assurances I got from several users. Well, I haven't used that clamp, either, if that tells you anything.

 

That's my two cents (and then some).

 

Terry

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using a Peak also. I have the salt and the midge jaws but I have never mounted them. I have tyed 0/4 down to 20's on the stock jaws without problems and have cranked Big Fly Thread down hard. I like the white base with a extra threaded vise shaft hole bored about four inches behind the regular mounting hole. I have a wood dowel in it with a upright spring on the end. The spring on the dowel is a great place to stick off cuts for the next fly to be tied. I have made a living for 40 years with hand tools and I know a good tool. Peak makes a good value for the money vise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds to me like its time to buy another tying desk :D

 

Although I think Two is right, any desk without the ability to clamp to it isn't really that far from a clampable desk. Go get a saw, a drill, and a file........about 10 inches from the edge, start hacking away until you get a hole big enough to put your clamp into. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, theres no problem using a pedestal base provided its got some weight. I primarily use the Masters with the saltwater base. You can get by with a lighter base IF you use "under" pressure (sort of pushing up on the bottom of hook while your pulling down on the deer hair. Pm me and we can meet in the virtual classroom for some tips or a Demo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone so far!

 

Oatka,

 

I actually thought about that one a bit but I've got a pull out center drawer that I keep all of long feathers in and I don't want to give that up which I would have to do if I did that. :(

 

The desk is a nice big deep roll top that helps keep the cat out of my business when I have to get up and leave things set up for awhile. I may have just had a revalation though! I've got some pullout work spaces on it (duh!), I'll need to see how sturdy they are when I get home, stick my old thompson it and see if they move!

 

Bruce,

 

I may need to take you up on that offer though. I'm familar with the downward pressure, it seemed to make sense but I can't get the jaws on my Renzetti to clamp down hard enough to keep the hook stable on anything bigger than a size 4. I'll PM you later tonight.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here is what I did to use my Peak on my non-clampable workbench. I cut, glued, and screwed some pieces of scrap plywood into a raised mount, then screwed the mount to my workbench. Because my workbench is also my handloading bench, I have it screwed to the wall studs with steel angle brackets. It is not moving. Wouldn't do you too much good on a roll top, I know. I tie standing up now, which is easier on my back. Also there is a very simple solution to keeping your cat out of your materials......

 

post-10077-1203284459_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A Bigger/Wider On The Bottom pedestal should work, If you have a heavy piece of wood, You could use some heavy wire to hold the vise to the board, Gives you a bigger pedestal, That spreads the weight out when you are pulling hard. Just my thoughts. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use my Renzetti traveler...I tie several deer hair flies and have no problem. I've spun hair on hooks from size 16 all the way up to 1/0 with no problem at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

You can also make a larger pedestal out of a (maple) cutting board. About an inch from one end drill a hole through the board the size of your vise shaft. Into the end of the board drill a hole a little larger than the dia. of a 1.5” long bolt. Drill this hole to intersect the hole for the vise shaft. In the bottom of the board and 1/2 way between the shaft hole and the end of the board drill a hole just deep enough to imbed (and glue) the nut that matches the bolt. Then thread the bolt through the bolt-hole, through the nut, and put pressure on the shaft. Put some small rubber feet on the bottom and a fridge magnet on the top and you're good to go.

 

The size of the cutting board gives the stability, not the weight. You can get nicer bolts in the furniture building section of the hardware store that are gold coloured and tighten with an allen key. (I also drilled a hole in the end of the base to hold the allen key.) My arrangement cost about $9. It is great for travel because it is lighter than a metal pedestal. The only 'trick' is that the holes are more accurate, and straighter if you can use a drill press.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...