Dillon Martini 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 I've tied flies for about 9 years and have started adding the science to the art to get not only realistic looking flies, but also realistic acting flies. Recently I went fishing with a friend and found while we were both catching lots of fish, he was doing slightly better using beadheads versus my same designs without the beadheads. As a result, I would like to try tying some beadheads, but am not sure how to tie them on. Should I cement them on and then tie them on, or just build up the thread on the aft side of the bead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maddog48 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 I tie and fish a bunch of beadheads. The biggest thing to remember is that the hole drilled in the bead has two sizes. When you put the bead on the hook, the small hole goes towards the hook eye. I then build up just a bit of a thread base to hold the bead at the eye. Another thing to remember .. beadhead flies have their place. So do non-beadheads. Don't get yourself pinned down like I have. I have gotten very dependant on beads and they're not the best in all situations .. IMHO. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
day5 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 Mike pretty much nailed it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crappie 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 I save little pieces of chenille for this. Put the bead on and make two soft sraps of thread aroound a little bit of chenile. with you bodkin or a neddle push this into the gap between the hook shank and the bead edge. This fills it in a little faster than building thread up. Crappie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chase Creek 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 I put just a slight amount of super glue on the hook shank where the bead sits, then slide the bead over it against the eye. It's quicker than building up thread behind the bead, and I never have any problem with the bead wandering around. Just be careful to use only a very small amount of glue, when the fly is done, your materials will hold the bead in place. The glue is just to keep it in place while tying. When I tie, I tie at least 6 of the same pattern, so adding the bead to all the hooks first is faster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grunt 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 I like the beads with the slots on the backside. The slotted beads seem to go around the hook bend easier so you can use a smaller bead and you can stock only a few sizes. I also keep them in copper rather than gold and in black. I can paint the black ones with different colors of fingernail polish. I think copper matches more bugs. The ones with the little facets are more reflective. I guess the reason I like these beads is that I dislike crimping splitshot on my tippet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fred H. 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 all good points,just remember the reason he was doing better that day was the bead made his heavier and had a shinny reflective quality.some days the fish might prefer your version . keep both on hand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dillon Martini 0 Report post Posted March 9, 2008 Thanks for the advice. It helps a lot. I'll make sure to not only have beads, I don't think that'll be a problem as I tie thousands without beads already and understand beads aren't perfect for all situations. I just like a large variety. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moosie 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2008 I usually put a couple or three turns of lead-free wire on the shank and then shove it up into the bead, then lock that in with just a few turns of thread. I like that chenille idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dale 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2008 I also stuff a few turns of wire up into the bead. It centers the bead on the shank and is much faster than using thread wraps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoyalWulff 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2008 I dont like putting too much weight on my bead heads, unless weight is what I am after. So I usually use peacock herl as the thorax or use some thick coarse dubbing to build up behind the bead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spiaailtli 0 Report post Posted March 12, 2008 Here ya go. This site has a bunch of patterns you can tie up. There are versions with and without lead wraps for beads. This one is without. www.charliesflyboxinc.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dontheo 0 Report post Posted March 13, 2008 Iuse the lead and thread technique of jamming it in the hole to lock it in place. My problem is casting those rascals. I look like an idiot and everything goes to hell with all the weight. Is there a trick to flinging them. I not doubt have to wait longer for the rod to load? T Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grunt 0 Report post Posted March 13, 2008 I also end up using 1xl or 2xl hooks with my bead heads. These hooks give me enough room to play a little bit while tieing. The small silver lined glass beads look like trapped air or gas bubbles underwater. Cool!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites