1st Dahlberg Diver

[Wellman 0]

Never tied one of this before. Looked way to hard with all the spinning and trimming, but it was a boring rainy day with nothing else to do so gave her a shot.

 

 

I will add some eye to it later. The reason I put a leader(power pro) because it can take more of a beatting then mono.

 

Have any tips?

[riffleriversteelheadslayer 0]

looks great

[coinman66 0]

Awesome 1st try!

 

[pickapeckof 0]

Very nice, the hook gape could be bigger, but then I like them big for pike.

 

Steve

[deeky 0]

Very nice work for a first. I agree with the hook gape though. In the future you can use a wide gape hook. But for this one, you can go back with a razor and trim the bottom even further. Don't be afraid to go far enough you are nervous about cutting your thread wraps. Not only will it give the hook more room to bite, but the less bouyant hair you have below the shank, the more likely the fly is to swim upright.

 

Deeky

[mcfluffchucker 0]

Very nice work for a first. I agree with the hook gape though. In the future you can use a wide gape hook. But for this one, you can go back with a razor and trim the bottom even further. Don't be afraid to go far enough you are nervous about cutting your thread wraps. Not only will it give the hook more room to bite, but the less bouyant hair you have below the shank, the more likely the fly is to swim upright.

 

Deeky

 

that is a really fantastic first effort i think your going to be one to watch in future with deer hair flies well done buddy

 

[Hairstacker 0]

Excellent 1st effort! I echo what the others have said about trimming the bottom closer to the hook shank. If you're not already doing so, always make that bottom flat cut first, making sure it is oriented correctly with the hook -- you can then use that flat bottom as a reference point for trimming the rest of the fly.

 

Also, not only do you want a wider-gaped hook but also one that is longer and shaped to put the hook point a little further back on the finished fly. Get some size 2 Tiemco TMC8089 or size 2/0 Gamakatsu B10S hooks (the size 2 Tiemco and size 2/0 Gamakatsu are exactly the same size) -- they are much, much better for this application. In any case, great job!

 

-- Mike

[mcfluffchucker 0]

Excellent 1st effort! I echo what the others have said about trimming the bottom closer to the hook shank. If you're not already doing so, always make that bottom flat cut first, making sure it is oriented correctly with the hook -- you can then use that flat bottom as a reference point for trimming the rest of the fly.

 

Also, not only do you want a wider-gaped hook but also one that is longer and shaped to put the hook point a little further back on the finished fly. Get some size 2 Tiemco TMC8089 or size 2/0 Gamakatsu B10S hooks (the size 2 Tiemco and size 2/0 Gamakatsu are exactly the same size) -- they are much, much better for this application. In any case, great job!

 

-- Mike

 

if your looking for a good hook with a wide gape id recommend the sakuma manta and sakuma manta extra a great hook for big pike bugs

 

[Wellman 0]

Thank you all.

 

I do have actual bass popper hooks they're at my cabin. :wallbash:

 

Does anyone know how I can attach eye with out having them fall out?

 

[Hairstacker 0]

Thank you all.

 

I do have actual bass popper hooks they're at my cabin. :wallbash:

 

Does anyone know how I can attach eye with out having them fall out?

 

Get a soldering iron (less than $10 at Radio Shack) and melt a small cavity where you want the eye to go. Put a little 2-part epoxy in the cavity and stick in the eye.

 

-- Mike

[riffleriversteelheadslayer 0]

mike gave you the best advice you can also use superglue but it doesn't work as well

[mcfluffchucker 0]

Thank you all.

 

I do have actual bass popper hooks they're at my cabin. :wallbash:

 

Does anyone know how I can attach eye with out having them fall out?

 

i just use epoxy with the big round plastic eyes , if im using 3d eyes superglue will do but you will have more chance of them coming off with fish hitting them the epoxy route is better

 

[JJD 0]

Similar to Mike's suggestion above, I use a tack in a dowel. I heat the head of the tack with a lighter and burn a small hole for the eye. I use Fletch-Tite adhesive for my eyes instead of epoxy. It seems to have some of the flexibility of Goop, but it's easier to apply due to the thin applicator.

[streamer 0]

About the hook gap........'nuff said.

I'll be super picky and suggest a couple of other minor corrections:

1 - Stand up the collar a bit straighter, and stiffen it with flexament or softex. The water pushing against that collar is what gives it movement and forces the fly to dive. Even standing straighter, it will give a bit on the strip/retrieve, so let's start it out standing straighter.

 

2 - There is a glue that I buy for setting eyes that is super tough, a bit flexible, and dries very quickly. It's called Fabri-Tac, and any sewing or craft store carries it. No mixing. A simple squeeze bottle. Burn the eye socket as has been suggested, put a generous dollop of FabriTac in, and push the eye into the glue as far as you can. It'll spring back a bit, and that's okay. You get better coverage this way, and a firmer set.

 

3 - Regarding your leader.... Is that snelled in place, or what? I'd lose the leader and attach the fly to the tippet with a loop knot. It gives the fly more wiggly action, and if it starts to fray from (let's hope) fishy bites, just re-tie it.

 

All in all, that's a terrific bug for a first effort! Nice goin'!

 

Regards,

Streamer