Orvis........

[iFly 0]

I have a 7wt Trident TLS, about 3 inches from the tip broke off. But, the dilemma is, it does not have their warranty because it is a re-(something) rod. It has a "R" stamped on the cork. Anyway, what is the value if repaired by a fly rod repairman? I've been thinking about getting an 8 or 9 wt rod, so this could be my chance to sell it (for less, obviously) and get a heavier rod more suited for what i fish for........

 

Any help greatly appreciated

[JSzymczyk 0]

Put a new tip guide on it, spool up your reel with an 8 wt line, and you have your new outfit. Not joking. See how it goes, I bet you'll like it.

[iFly 0]

Put a new tip guide on it, spool up your reel with an 8 wt line, and you have your new outfit. Not joking. See how it goes, I bet you'll like it.

 

See, i thought of that, but i had 8 wt line on it, and i think thats what caused it to break..........i was using 8wt sinking line, but i got all the line in before casting............not sure what happened. But ill give it another go.

[Eaglerapids 0]

If you were fishing bead heads or anything weighted and happened to hit the rod with them on a backcast, that would do it. And it wouldn't necessarily break at that moment, the impact could weaken the wall of the rod and the break happen later.

[iFly 0]

If you were fishing bead heads or anything weighted and happened to hit the rod with them on a backcast, that would do it. And it wouldn't necessarily break at that moment, the impact could weaken the wall of the rod and the break happen later.

 

 

I actually thought about this. I used to throw weighted crab flies, etc, and i have hit the rod on windy days. But that was almost 2 months ago and ive caught plenty of fish on the rod since, and no problem until this past Saturday.

[Stippled Popper 0]

If you were fishing bead heads or anything weighted and happened to hit the rod with them on a backcast, that would do it. And it wouldn't necessarily break at that moment, the impact could weaken the wall of the rod and the break happen later.

 

 

I actually thought about this. I used to throw weighted crab flies, etc, and i have hit the rod on windy days. But that was almost 2 months ago and ive caught plenty of fish on the rod since, and no problem until this past Saturday.

 

 

I guess it is possible that damage occurred which though not enough to cause an immediate break was sufficient to be compounded by subsequent stress and eventually lead to a break.

[Steve P 0]

I guess it is possible that damage occurred which though not enough to cause an immediate break was sufficient to be compounded by subsequent stress and eventually lead to a break.

 

Seen this happen on both my rods and several customer rods as well... I did it to a Winston, with a big conehead, didn't fail until almost 6months later, and i had not cast anything bigger than a #18 midge on it since it was hit.

 

Steve

[perchjerker 0]

With respect to it's value if you get it fixed, it will be worth what someone is willing to pay for it. If you have it fixed, you might be surprised at what a nice 'new' rod you have. Fixing it just might make it a much faster rod than it was. My 'prized' 9ft 9wt got broken a little farther back than this from the tip. It cost me $20.00 to have it fixed. If I had know earlier what an improvement it would make, I would have broken it and had it fixed much earlier!

 

perchjerker

[Rocco 0]

The "R" mark on the grip is one that they burn onto the grip of rods that are factory seconds/old models/floor models. In our area they have a big sale every year on such ORVIS gear in a warehouse. Prices are slashed as they do not extend a warranty on them and, typically, there are no replacement parts available. I have a Trident Spey rod with this mark that I bought for a song.

 

Rocco

 

With respect to it's value if you get it fixed, it will be worth what someone is willing to pay for it. If you have it fixed, you might be surprised at what a nice 'new' rod you have. Fixing it just might make it a much faster rod than it was. My 'prized' 9ft 9wt got broken a little farther back than this from the tip. It cost me $20.00 to have it fixed. If I had know earlier what an improvement it would make, I would have broken it and had it fixed much earlier!

 

perchjerker

[iFly 0]

Thanks for all the replies and input. Taking it this week to get fixed.

[JSzymczyk 0]

gluing on a new tip top is about the easiest DIY rod repair there is... 5 or 6 bucks at the most, and 5 minutes of time.

[iFly 0]

gluing on a new tip top is about the easiest DIY rod repair there is... 5 or 6 bucks at the most, and 5 minutes of time.

 

Where its broken is splintered, do you have to do anything else before gluing the eye on?

[flyfishing99 0]

gluing on a new tip top is about the easiest DIY rod repair there is... 5 or 6 bucks at the most, and 5 minutes of time.

 

Where its broken is splintered, do you have to do anything else before gluing the eye on?

How malive piece rod is it?

Orvis is pretty good about fixing their rods even if not covered by warranty. I would try to get an estimate from them

[DHise 0]

I should be able to get it repaired for you. Its like $100. Dont hold me to it though. Ive had them done before.

[morfrost 0]

Here's how you can do it yourself.

 

If you saw the rod tip square where the blank is sound with the finest blade you can find, i.e a coping saw or a fret saw if you have access to one, the blank should end up with a very smooth cut. Sand the end with a fine sandpaper , 120 grit or so to make sure you hasve a nice edge. Try to remove as little of the original tip section as you can.

 

If you have a rod tip sizer tool or a machinists sliding caliper , you can measure the diameter of the end. You can get one from J Stockard or another supplier of rod building material.The tip top is measured in mm ( millimeters) If you use a machinist's caliper, convert to mm. Order the appropriate tip top from J Stockard or your local shop. Order some thermal rod tip cement. If you can't do this, take the cut tip section to a shop that sells fly rod components, get them to measure it and buy the appropriate tip top and cement. Get some size A nylon rod thread to match your winding colours and accent colours as appropriate. Get some colour preserver ( CP) and rod finish too ( 2 part rod finish).

 

Lightly Sand the area under the tip top with extra fine sandpaper ( 220 grit to dull the finish and give the blkank some "tooth" for the glue. Heat the thermal glue stick with a match or lighter, dab a small ball of glue on the end of the rod and push on the tip top, lining it up with your guides. Pushing the tip on will forcre the glue down the blank. If there's excess, let it cool. You can then chip it off with a fingernail. You may have to reheat the tip top if it set before you got it lined up correctly, but that's no big deal. Use pliers to reallign the hot tip top, and work quickly. Reheating it to soften the glue will make the tip top hot enough to burn you. I've done that a few times.

 

Winding the threead is simple too. You can cheeck out the rod building section on this site or google " winding guides on fly rods" to get instruction on how to do this, or borrow a book from your library on rod building.

 

Finish by brushing on the CP, let it dry and apply the finish.

 

I think we all will break a rod tip now and again. I've done it several times. The rod tip sizer tool, colour preserver and 2 part finish is handy and it only codsts a couple of $.

 

Who knows, this may ignite an unknown spark in you and you mayu build your own rod somewday.