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Fly Tying


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About Rocco

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  1. robow7, Are you refering to the Ambush lines or the TT lines?
  2. They would lend themselves nicely to some mini trout spey patterns.
  3. Fuzzy fiber is often used as a sculpin head material in a dubbing loop that will shape well and not retain water. It adds bulk to head of a fly w/o impeding casting/sinking. To me, its kinky character does not recommend it as a movement wing material in streamers.,
  4. Sally Hansen... Did I date her?
  5. I'm all for it as long as catch and release is not part of the picture.
  6. Can't imagine wanting a short vise. I hate bending over a vise -- or a vice for that matter. Long tying sessions looking down on my work really screw up my neck/back muscles. So I too want the device set at eye level. Back in the cave dwelling days, they used to sell a simple round extension device for a few bucks that was about 2" high with a large flat head screw in the bottom and hollowed out center for your vise shaft with a set screw tensioner. You made your own base out of wood and layered pieces at one end to mount the extension tube at any height you wanted with the original vise shaft. 50 years later I'm still using it.
  7. If you speak of the entire range of classic, traditional, Atlantic salmon patterns within which you find the Spey and Dee flies, you probably should also mention similar but distinct styles and patterns from Irish, Scandinavian, and other European and even North American salmon fisheries. Like the Spey and Dee styles I would guess there are river specific patterns and variants in those regions.
  8. Spey flies typically are works of art as well as reliable attractor patterns that are mostly used on salmon and migratory trout. They imitate nothing in nature and rely on color blends often using exotic materials, hints of flash, and sparse, balanced, construction designed to move through and cross currents as if alive. They are mostly delivered on two handed rods and swung down and across. Done right, tying them is time consuming; often expensive -- as only the finest and often hard to find materials pass muster; demanding in the use of materials; and a serious test of anyone's mastery of tying techniques. They are not to be confused with fully functional salmon or steelhead flies that you can knock out assembly line style by the dozen in an evening .
  9. Philly and Mike Chell, Dron Lee indeed was the tyer I tried to remember before and could not, until Mike's memory jogger. I found his site on the inet and now have all his work bookmarked again -- until the next puter crash that is! His pattern, that is a bit like Philly's, is called the YUSAKA CREASE Fly. You can find it in his Fresh Water Nation subsite. Rocco
  10. Philly, That minnow pattern looks like a killer. It reminds me of a similar pattern by a tyer from Indonesia who had some amazing designs. A while back I lost access to his work when my computer crashed and I a lot of my saved items went away. I cannot remember his name now.
  11. If you are talking about exact imitations of the really small spring stoneflies, they may get strikes but would not hold any steellhead I know of. Stonefly nymphs of middling larger size but far short of the standard stonefly in size do work. Years ago, I came across a youngster -- late teens -- on the Pere Marquette who was having a field day on steelies with a simple black wet stonefly nymph. He gave me one and I've used the pattern with considerable success since. The components are readily available and the tie is simple. A 1X strong, sharp, wet fly hook standard length will do in size 8 --- not as a platform for a bulky fly but for the hook gape and strength. For the tail use two slightly spread, thin, black/gray biots a bit over half the hook shank length. The body is a thinly dubbed, shiny, black synthetic dubbing slightly roughed up with velcro and just a few wraps of small round silver tinsel. Tie in a shortish black hen or dyed dyed black pheasant soft hackle at the head with a small bit of spacing between two wraps. Overall, the finished nymph should be trim, short -- @ 1 and 1/4", and have some movement in the water. They fish best on 8lb Maxima camo leader at the most. .
  12. I really like butt extensions and have made many of them It is dead easy. It takes longer to describe than to do. I turn these out now in under 15 minutes once the parts are in hand. The hardest job is finding a ready made butt section. ARE sold a great 3.5 inch cork extension but they are closed down now. There are other sources I suppose in the rod making supplies world. Or you could make and shape your own which I never have done All you have to do is remove the end cap on your existing short rod butt. In the case of rubber end caps butting against the reel seat, just pry them off and saw off any blank overhang for a flush fit against reel seat. If no rubber cap, tape up the base of the reel seat to protect it and use a hacksaw to cut off whatever base is there and expose the inner hole of the rod blank. Find an old rod blank to use as 'stent' material. ( Do not use a flimsy old blank, strength is important.) Measure the inner hole of the exposed rod blank with a calipers and find that dimension on the stent and mark it for reference . Measure 4-5 inches up the narrowing taper of the stent and cut it off. Measure the inside depth of your new butt extension and cut the stent @ half inch short of that length measuring down from the point the stent touches the reel seat. Do a trial assembly, insert the long side of the stent inside your rod blank until it is tight. Then try the bottom half of the stent in the butt extension -- you may need to trim it a bit again to bring the butt extension up tight against the reel seat. The stent end inside the new butt extension most likely will be a loose fit, so tape it up until it is almost tight but leave some room for epoxy to flow over it. Check the other end to see if it rattles around inside the blank and add a little tape there. if needed. Mix and apply slow drying epoxy sparsely over the two stent ends and assemble the new butt extension up tight to the reel seat. Cover the reel seat with masking tape as a temporary damn against epoxy overflow. Tape the extension butt down against the reel seat to assure it does not 'climb' loose and stand the rod blank reel seat upright during drying over night. The new extended butt enables two hand, near effort-free, casting; gives ground and clothes clearance for your reel; and also adds a bit of weight in the butt that allows you to balance a rod with lighter reels. Damned if I know why more rods aren't build that way.
  13. flytire and all. I misspoke on the "bitch creek ref! I meant "thunder creek" style. Here is one version. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NMMaELd8y0
  14. The barred squirrel tail wing is a nice touch as the material has great movement for streamer wings. It will work fine. For reference clarity though, you might call the pattern a variant because the traditional wing has sparse segments of black, over brown, over white, bucktail. Some other variants use maribou in those colors and there is a "bitch creek" style Black Dace too.
  15. Wow. I've caught fish on most of these patterns and, between the Mickey Finn and wooly bugger, stacks of fish. But over 60 years in the game I can count on one maimed hand the number of fish taken on egg patterns. Maybe cuz I don't like tyting or using them but trials with them have not chnged my mind.
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