Fish For Life 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 Im trying to tye some really heavy nymphs to drag other nymphs down to the bottom fast in swift current. Im looking at trying to tye these nymphs up to 3.5-4 grams. The problem is i cant get get a fly over 1 gram. Im using lead bodies and tungsten bead heads on size 14 hooks but its still not heavy enough. Do any of you have any good patterns or ideas to make a fly super heavy. Im not going for anything fancy i just want a fly that will get me down fast. At this point what i might try doing i tying these heavy flys on bigger hooks. Ill be able to get more lead on them and a bigger head. Another thing i might try doing is using tungsten cone heads. Im sure that there heavier than the beads. Im not trying to get the most realistic fly i just want one that is heavy. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaydub 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 I don't see any way your going to get that on a size 14 hook. My standard size 6 stonefly nymph is only about 24 grains = 1.55 grams. That is with a 3/16 tungsten bead and 24 wraps of .030 lead. I once tied some size 4 nymphs with a large tungsten cone and fully wrapped with lead wire plus a double layer over the thorax. I didn't weigh them but they were very difficult to cast (or flip really) with a 6 wt rod. Maybe try some big tungsten dumbell eyes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 John Tyzak, when he was fishing for England used a fly that might suit your needs. He took a size 8 grub hook and threaded onto it 5 tungsten beads. 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 4mm & 3mm. Then covered the whole thing in floss. It had a tendency to sink! You could try that using smaller beads on your size 14. Though I would have to ask, if you are tying a "sacrificial nymph" why does it have to be so small? That is one approach. Another is to consider what you really need. You don't so much as need a heavy fly as a dense one. Split your materials into two kinds. Ones that float and ones that sink. Tie your flies from the ones that sink. It sounds simplistic, but many people put dubbing over weight to try to make a sinking fly. The dubbing is trying to hold the fly up the weight take it down. The result is they think they need more weight. One practical outcome of this thinking is wire woven bugs. Slim flies that cut through the water very quickly. This kind of thing. A simple fly with coloured copper wire woven for the body, over a single layer of holographic tinsel. A touch of loose dubbing is all it takes to imitate legs at the head. These days I have changed from using seal's fur, as in the photo, to using Quick Decent dubbing made from aluminium.. If that isn't heavy enough, double the copper wire and twist it together before weaving it. Of course you can also add a bead head. Cheers, C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
switch10 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 I'm a big fan of the depth charge birds nest. I use 2 tungsten beads, and as much weighted wire as I can fit on it. I tie these up to get down quick in the spring when the water is high. They work great for me. They make a pretty good golden stone imitation, and I'll often use them in place of a hare's ear as well. Step by step tying instructions can be found here: http://mytroutfly.blogspot.com/2013/07/depth-charge-birds-nest.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 I assume you want to get deep because you're not catching but others are using this method? Have you tried asking what they are using? If its just yourself that wants to get right down follow the dense slim route and try the multi bead setup but as already said, casting will be a pain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 Also don't forget to throw a good upstream mend into your line so the fly has chance to sink before current pulls your flyline along and lifts it all up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryon Anderson 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 Perhaps I'm being dense here (no pun intended), but why not simply add more lead (or substitute of your choice) to your leader to get your flies down? You'll get your 4g of weight a lot faster that way than trying to add it to a hook. If putting the shot above the flies doesn't get you down fast enough, you can place it at the end of the leader with your flies on droppers off the main leader. If you haven't already, check out Kelly Galloup's video, "Nymphing By the Numbers". It explains a bunch of different ways to weight your rig to fish different types of water. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 You are describing the function of a Czech Nymph. There's a special body weight that's used: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/cgi-bin/item/SM-730200-0000/search/Hareline-Ribbed-Tungsten-Scud--Shrimp-Bodies.html I'm sure other vendors carry similar products, but that's the first one I found. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FlyFishin'Jam 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 What Crackaig mentioned is gold, consider your dressing. For example take a bare hook and drop it in the water, it will sink like a stone, now take a heavily dressed hook, it may not even puncture the meniscus. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaydub 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 Perhaps I'm being dense here (no pun intended), but why not simply add more lead (or substitute of your choice) to your leader to get your flies down? You'll get your 4g of weight a lot faster that way than trying to add it to a hook. I can't speak for the OP, but one reason might be regulations. For example here in Oregon, on fly fishing only waters, you cannot have any weight attached to your line or leader. Any weight must be part of the fly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m_grieb 0 Report post Posted August 14, 2013 oh lord Jesus please don't mention lead or tungsten... those are troubled waters... haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cussfly16 0 Report post Posted August 15, 2013 Look up black widow..... I posted it on here a while back and they put the sbs on the hatches sites... It will get you down and catch fish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyflycaster 0 Report post Posted August 15, 2013 In Dynamic Nymphing - IMHO a great book - George Daniel argues that you don't need a lot of weight to get down to the bottom. After the cast (or lob) is made, you should have some slack in you line, which will allow the fly sink. (You'll have to wait a few moments.) Also, he recommends using slimmer nymphs. Finally, you can use a Tuck Cast, which is used to get the flies deep as quickly as possible. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockstarflyfishing 0 Report post Posted August 15, 2013 Tungsten bead and FLAT LEAD... And stop buying the domestic crap... It's not real lead !! The flat lead helps keep the body proportions correct while being able to add a whole ton of weight ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockstarflyfishing 0 Report post Posted August 15, 2013 George know his stuff but I gotta say if you fish super fast pocket water you need heavy!! I don't care what he and his book says. State college fishing isn't all that gradient. That's where he has prefected most of his techniques. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites