Jump to content
Fly Tying

Recommended Posts

I just got a 3 wt reel and I am unsure of how much Dacron backing I will need to put on it. I realize not all 3 wt reels are the exact same size, but can someone that has a 3 wt give me a ballpark number of how much backing you put on your 3 wt reel? Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the best way to know how much backing to use it to spool the fly line on first and then the backing. leave a little room at the end of the spool

 

then unspool everything and reinstall the backing first and then the fly line

 

everything should fit perfectly

 

or check the reel manufacturers web page for backing recommendations

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watch this video. At about 3.50 into it, he shows how to determine your backing amount. It's a great way to determine how much. The video is a pretty good one for the whole line set up.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the best way to know how much backing to use it to spool the fly line on first and then the backing. leave a little room at the end of the spool

 

then unspool everything and reinstall the backing first and then the fly line

 

everything should fit perfectly

 

or check the reel manufacturers web page for backing recommendations

This is pretty objectively the best way to get the right amount of backing for how full you want your spool, which works for any spool of any reel, with any line, and any type thickness (or color!) of backing.

 

Some friends of mine want every last inch of backing they can possibly get, and spool up their reels to the max. Others reason that they almost never see their backing, so they put enough on to cover the arbor with a layer or two, then put the line on, leaving the spool largely empty (which may look weird but means they don't have to worry about even distribution when winding).

 

Personally, I try to get a good balance, making sure I have plenty of backing, but also leaving myself generous space, so that while I have to pay attention to the evenness of my reeling, I'm not going to bottom out with a few errant turns of the handle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is definitely something you'll have to figure out or look up specs on, because the answer depends on the weight and diameter of your backing and spool size. If you need more backing step down in backing weight or find another braid with a smaller diameter.

 

I needed more backing for my saltwater setups here in florida, especially my 10wt as I fish tarpon and Bluewater with it. What I did was buy a 11/12 reel which allowed me to get 300yds of 30lb backing.

 

General standard on my freshwater reels is 75 or 100yds, have never felt like I was close to getting spoiled in freshwater

 

just dont put too much backing with the fly line all neat and such, because when your fighting a fish and build up a lump of line instead of a nice level wraps it will rub and could break your tippet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might not need a lot of backing for a running fish. If you put fish on the reel, it is a good idea to have enough backing on to bring you fly line as close to the rim as possible. If you're reeling in a fish, every turn of the reel only retrieves a certain amount of line. The larger the diameter of the spool, the more line you retrieve. If you've only got a 2 inch circumference of line on, each rotation pulls in 2 inches of line. If you've got a four inch circumference, you pull 4 inches.

 

I don't use my reel to fight fish on a fly rod. But my level wind and spinning reels are filled to the rim (almost) and it makes a noticeable difference on the retrieve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most spools have holes you can see the backing in, I fill my spool up to fill that first hole with the micro backing or even just the Cortland thin backing material and into the web a little between that row and the next row of holes. On most spools that's plenty of backing and leaves plenty of room as well. It's not a matter of how many yards but just how full the spool is on a 3 wt. On a 3 wt I doubt it's going to be a huge issue about how far into the backing a fish might spool you out. As mentioned, I think I'd rather the fly line have a little clearance in this case. Big fish, heavy gear, fast charging fish that make long runs , that's another matter entirely..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On a 3 wt I doubt it's going to be a huge issue about how far into the backing a fish might spool you out.

After reading this line ... I started to wonder.

If you have a three weight, and you've got say, a 2# test tippet, and you hook into an 8 pound bass ... or an 8 pound brown trout ... aren't you MORE likely to have the fish take you into the backing?

If you catch the same fish on an 8 weight rod with 10# test tippet, you can likely bring those fish in without letting them run more then a few feet.

I am just pondering ... since I don't have a 3 weight, nor do I use such small tippets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First off I can't see a situation that you would be using 7x or 8x tippet for bass fishing. And unless you are smallmouth fishing in a river, that 8lb bass is not going to take you into your backing. Now a wild 8lb brown in a river and you could be toast, but even then I would guess that fifty yards would be enough because with tippet that light you would have to chase the fish anyway. The tippet couldn't stand the strain of the fish, the river and all that fly line and backing dragging.

 

I would say to first check the specs on the reel as was already stated. You will want to not quite fill the spool with line and backing so as to maintain the largest diameter possible WITHOUT crowding the spool. If you get too close to filling the spool, every time you reel in the line you will have to make sure the line doesn't pile and cause it to jamb against the cross members of the reel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

On a 3 wt I doubt it's going to be a huge issue about how far into the backing a fish might spool you out.

After reading this line ... I started to wonder.

If you have a three weight, and you've got say, a 2# test tippet, and you hook into an 8 pound bass ... or an 8 pound brown trout ... aren't you MORE likely to have the fish take you into the backing?

If you catch the same fish on an 8 weight rod with 10# test tippet, you can likely bring those fish in without letting them run more then a few feet.

I am just pondering ... since I don't have a 3 weight, nor do I use such small tippets.

 

This is shifting more into a "right tool for the task" discussion, buuuut...

 

The short answer is: yes and no.

 

The issue of matching tackle to fish, and theorizing the impact and limits thereof can quickly become a very circular argument due to so many factors at play, including, but not limited to: the stiffness of the butt of the rod, the stiffness of the tip section, the range and quality of your reel's drag, the break strength of your tippet, the weight and type of fish on the line, the environment in which it's caught, the temperament of the fish, and more...

 

In very broad, general terms, yes, you are more likely to bring a fish in and to give up less line with a heavier rod and stronger tippet. That being said, the break strength of the tippet can be a misleading over-simplification of the situation (an 8 lb fish can be easily caught on 2 lb test...and that same fish can put anywhere from 0-30+ lbs of pressure on that same line...and not break it. That being said, however, an 8 lb brown in moving water is going to take it's line, and more than a few feet of it, regardless of the rod, reel, or tippet. Similarly, you might be able to take a pig bass in still or slow water on 5 or 6X tippet on a 3wt and never get the rear taper of your line out of the last guide. Those sorts of hard limits are entirely up to the fish. River smallies in particular come to mind for finding ways to use every advantage they can, but also tend not to be distance runners. They'll wrap behind a rock and drag the line across to slice it, make a loop around a submerge branch, or even dive deep (increasing drag due to the submerged line) then come up for a jump and head-shake, applying shock pressure to that tippet in excess of the total weight of the fish...and they'll do it all within 40 feet of your wading boots.

 

This is the area where good angling instincts and keeping a cool head will get you more fish. Good gear and appropriate gear may give you an edge, but there are very few situations where your gear prevents you from landing the fish, or the flip side of your gear being the only reason you were able to catch a given fish. Still, lots and lots of these situations are determined by dumb luck. They drag you against a broken bottle on the bottom, or wrap you around a branch...or the luck may even work occasionally in your favor (I once had a nice Erie steelhead thrashing around in a riffle and pool, only to make a hard run sideways and beach himself on the bank).

 

So in broad terms, yes, heavier gear allows you to dictate the terms of the battle more than light gear...but those terms are very broad indeed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...