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Capt Bob LeMay

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Everything posted by Capt Bob LeMay

  1. I used to do a bit of flash on popper bodies and didn't use mylar sheets at all. What I came up with was large mylar braid. I'd remove the core (usally on 3/8" braid) then cut a piece, push it together to enlarge it then slip it over the popper head and pull tight (like a Chinese finger trap). Once in place, coat with whatever finish needed and it would appear like the poppper head was made that way at a factory..... Hope this helps Tight lines Bob LeMay (954)435-5666
  2. The one tip I can provide has to do with quality control. Try to save a master copy of every pattern you tie (particularly when doing something new) as you fill your orders. These master patterns should be carefully labeled and saved long term. Each one is a ready reference to aid you in quickly matching color, dimensions, etc. I've had orders that were requested again five years later and was able to match the exact item my customer got the first time, identical colors and all.... You'll find as you tie (and hopefully actually use) different patterns that you may want to make slight changes in one aspect or another of a given pattern. Those changes get well established if you also change that master... One last thing about master patterns... I actually lay out those dozen flies (or 100..) and carefully choose the absolute best example as my master (or the one that I want to fish personally). As you tie over the years that will help you do your best work since the master will be the best you did on any given pattern (until you do it better...). By the way when you get an order from a well known guide or that tournament winning angler... have them provide a sample of that hot pattern before you fill their order. You can learn some interesting stuff that way. Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  3. After more than a few attempts to thin Sally Hansen with various solvents that didn't exactly work as planned.... I went to another strategy.... When my usual bottle begins to thicken to the point that it's not usable, I buy a new bottle and carefully decant half of it into the old bottle. I quickly seal up the half new bottle and set it aside, then shake up the old bottle and it's ready to go. The half used new bottle will stay new since it isn't being used and eventually it too will be decanted into the old bottle of finish when needed. Hope this helps - as a commercial tyer I try to make my basic supplies last as long as possible... Tight lines Bob LeMay (954)435-5666
  4. Please excuse the mention of spinning gear in this report.... and ignore the picture of the big snook it produced.... This past week at Flamingo have seen some changes with morning water temps dropping about four degrees and tarpon finally making a good showing along the west coast of the 'Glades and up inside the rivers that drain the area. As usual the pics will tell most of the story. This is what you get if you leave the dock well before the sun is up and make the run out to the coast.... Hard to beat the look of the 'Glades at dawn, a long way from the boat ramp... Most of the next eight days would be fly fishing but that first day it was a mix of fly and spin. Andy Strawbridge started out that day with the lightest spin rod on my skiff (and one I'd just built only two weeks before)... His very first cast with a light jig produced a heavy snook near lots of blown down trees along the coast...... It was touch and go, back and forth, but here's the results.... this big girl weighed 14lbs, and taped 36"... she was very carefully released - it was a great start to the day, and an outstanding catch on 10lb line with a light 30lb leader..... In the next hour we released two small tarpon and lost another few big fish. This was just a hint of how good the fishing is this time of year. A day or two later and we finally found a river or two loaded with 50 to 80lb tarpon. With Chris Ravelo and Mike Wior from Tampa aboard I had a couple of skilled fly anglers. The pics tell most of the story (but not all of it)... these two are skilled enough that this guide didn't have to even touch one of the tarpon for the release.... Each guy took turns putting them in the air, then bringing them to the boat, where they handled the fish like they'd been doing it for years (and I suspect they have...) None of our fish that day were over sixty pounds but they gave a good account of themselves in a river that was less than 100 feet wide... The next day my angler was Amador Rodrigues from Chile and we were scheduled to fish the next five days with fly gear. On the first day we had to hit a few rivers before finding the tarpon. With tarpon from fifty to one hundred pounds in the river, the first fish we encountered were black drum in the 20 to 30lb class. Amador made a great presentation and was rewarded with this one.... We weighed this one at 23lbs before the release. Amador went on to catch and release a sixty lb tarpon a few minutes later (I was using his video gear, so no photos). Later that day we went back out to the coast, and found a nice snook. Once again a great fight near lots of snag filled shoreline.... Here's the result, another great catch and release snook this time on fly. Anyone who thinks the snook haven't recovered should come talk with me..... We went on to catch and release a tarpon each day on fly... Here's a pic of Amador's best fish - once again up another of the many rivers holding the big fish when they aren't out on the coast.... the last portion of the fight was with a broken rod... Amador did everything right, we recovered the broken tip and the fish for a careful release... These next three or four weeks should see some outstanding tarpon fishing along the Gulf coast of the 'Glades. This second big tarpon season is little known to anyone that's not familiar with the way big tarpon like to feed up in preparation for that first cold night in late October. I rarely see many anglers taking advantage of that opportunity. Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  5. You do realize that this is the height of the hurricane season? Of course it's also just about the best fishing we have every year... Hope you have a great trip (and save a few fish for the rest of us). I've just come off of eight days straight with fly anglers (mostly) at Flamingo... and I will sleep well tonight.....
  6. Here's a vote for a guy who's long gone now.... His name was Harry Friedman and I only met him towards the end of his long life. In the late 1940's he actually lived on one of the islands near the Ragged Keys along the eastern boundary of Biscayne Bay.... He was nice enough to give me a few pointers back in the late seventies when I was developing an interest in fly tying. My very first bonefish was on a pattern he taught me.... As a life long member of the Miami Beach Rod and Reel Club his proudest achievement was a 72lb tarpon on 12lb tippet. When I first saw the photo I wasn't very impressed.... later I learned that the Miami Beach club in that era (1950's) thought it un-sporting to use a shock tippet when fly fishing.... I can't imagine a 72lb fish on straight 12lb line (and I've handled quite a few fly caught tarpon -seven or eight this week alone). By the way, Harry was a contemporary of Joe Brooks and you'll find more than one or two pics of him in those early books on saltwater fly from the master, Mr. Brooks.... Here's to you Harry, I never got to fish with you and wish it weren't so.... Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  7. Great looking bugs. Many years ago I used to tie for the Fly Fisheman shop when Liz and Frank Steele owned it. That area is a dream come true for shallow waters that you can access by 'yak, skiff, or just wade....
  8. On the rare occasion that I'm using a single strength tippet tied directly to the fly (mostly for bonefish where an 8 or 10lb tippet is pretty much a standard) then the Palomar gets the nod every time. It will test closest to the actual line strength of any single line knot you can find since you have two turns of line actually through the hook eye.... The referral to Kreh and Sosin's knot book is a very good idea. It was pretty much my bible thirty or more years ago when I was learning to use light tackle to the max. I belonged to the old Tropical Anglers Club down in Miami in the late seventies and early eighties. They had a full sized tensile strength meter that anyone could use and it was pretty handy. The thing you'd do with a new spool of mono back then was to do three breaking tests to determine its actual breaking strength (we were all hot to set new club records - and more than a few club members set new world records with the gear we used). Then we'd put a piece of tape on the end of the spool and record the results to make sure we knew the dry strength of any lines we might be using. This was important both for spin, plug, or conventional gear - but also for any fly tippets we might want to submit to the IGFA (or the old ISFA before they went out of business and transferred their records to the IGFA - I can't remember who kept the records for fly gear before those records as well were absorbed into the IGFA record system). Spools of line back then (and still today) usually over tested the claimed rating (and occasionally they were just mis-labeled from the outfit that sold them....). For fly gear I divide leader systems into single line with no shock tippet and leaders with a shock tippet. The knots for each vary quite a bit. If I'm using a "Poor Boy" leader (essentially just a straight single strength leader in the 20 to 30lb range that's four to five feet long) one end has a single Surgeon's loop that will connect that portion of the leader to the leader butt (a heavier piece of mono that is permanently attached to the end of the fly line with one or two nail knots and has another Surgeon's loop at the bitter end (4' of 30lb for a 7wt, 4' of 40lb for an 8wt, 4.5' of 40lb for a 9wt, all the way up to 6' of 60lb mono for an 11 or 12wt...). These days the Poor Boy is generally fluorocarbon... and the knot attaching the fly is just about always a loop knot, I prefer the Improved Homer Rhode knot... Once you start adding a "shock tippet" (better named a bite tippet, since it's there when you're working fish with very abrasive jaws like tarpon or snook) things get complicated pretty quickly. If I'm staying with just single strength line my usual connection is a Slim Beauty knot (it used to be a Blood knot). Once you get up to where you're needing the absolute strongest leaders then each end of the tippet (or breaking strength, the way IGFA records are maintained....) then I use a Bimini Twist at each end before tying that Surgeon's loop (now a doubled Surgeon's loop) or connecting the other doubled end to a shock tippet using a Hufnagle or Slim Beauty knot. This complicated stuff becomes necessary when you're using heavy shock tippets with fairly light tippets (20 to 40, 20 to 60, 20 to 80, for example). The results are a two part leader (whether single strength or with the more complicated shock tippet leader) that is connected loop to loop and very quick to change out for different conditions, different species, etc. Combining the length of the butt section with the Poor Boy usually gives you a nine to ten foot leader, with the shock tippet, about nine feet as a standard. When bonefishing I either use a manufactured tapered leader or tie my own using the Ritz formula and loop it to the butt (with a seven foot tapered leader that gives you an 11 foot leader with an 8wt... AS you can guess this entire topic is complicated enough that a single magazine article won't quite cover it all. Most of the above is from an article I wrote a few years ago for a magazine.... Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  9. For some years now it's been legal to export/import very controlled amounts of polar bear fur. Legal stocks come from both Canada (someone correct me if I'm wrong about Canada...) and Alaska (but you'll sure pay for them....). Years and years ago the only way to get your hands on any was to buy trimmings from old rugs (or buy an old rug and piece it out). As a commercial tyer I very carefully never did any flies for shops with polar hair (this was learned when it was still illegal to import the stuff). I started out as a commercial tyer in 1979 to give you a time frame. I figured that life was complicated enough without having some kind of "endangered problem". Many years later I did a new pattern using bear hair and submitted it to the folks I have a contract with, Umpqua Feather Merchants. The hair involved was just black bear, pretty commonly available in small pieces all the way up to full sized hides. They quickly declined and advised that the hassles with any kind of bear hair moving into and out of the country were just too great to consider using that particular material. Imagine having to buy everything your tyers in another country need to produce your patterns, ship it out to them as an export item, then import the finished product back into the States with black bear hair when it's going to get close scrutiny at every point in the process.... While I'm on the topic of bear hair, if you're ever up in Alaska they have an open sale every year of skins, furs, etc that anyone can participate in called (if memory serves) the Fur Rende (for Rendevous). I'm sure some tier from Alaska will chime in with the specifics. At any rate that's the best opportunity to purchase legal polar bear hair that I know of (Polar items come from roadkill, and legal Native takings). One other thought about polar hair - I long ago quit dyeing it and just used bucktail or other brightly dyed hairs to accent the natural polar hair. That technique works quite well if you use a very small quantity of bucktail (polar goes translucent when it gets wet). Down here in south Florida the main use we have for it is when making barracuda patterns. Sharp toothed fish ('cudas, mackeral, bluefish) don't seem to be able to cut polar bear hair -the bucktail cuts easily but the polar survives very nicely.... Tight lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  10. Last night was one for the books. I met my anglers Neil Franklin and Michael Jameson at the dock on Miami Beach at 8Pm and we set out to fly fish nearby bridges, docklights, and other possibilites. With the high tide inside just after 9pm that night we had to hunt a bit before finding much in the way of fish and it looked like we were in for a slow night with lots of searching to find any hungry fish. Michael was looking for variety and maybe a tarpon or snook. Neil, a very experienced tarpon angler was lookng for his first one on fly. After more that six different spots and two bridges with little if any signs of fish we began to concentrate on docklights. That was the best decision, as it soon proved... With Michael using his 10wt we began to find a few very nice snook working one of several lights and just trapping small bait in the lights. At first all we had was an occasional follow with no strikes so I took a chance and re-rigged him with a lighter leader (a Poor Boy rig, with the tippet end four feet of straight 20lb fluoro and no shock tippet at all). We were gambling that the lighter leader might be all that was needed (if we were lucky we might land one or two small fish - bigger fish would just shred that leader...). As we poled just outside a dockline (I think quietly poling a skiff, day or night is hard to beat when hunting spooky fish...) Mike made a long cast and was rewarded with a good fish that followed in the light a short distance then took the fly. Since I was busy poling I never saw the fish until it was hooked and it stayed deep most of the fight. It was quite a battle, the fish made a half dozen strong runs and repeatedly tried to get back to the all the pilings. Michael did everything right and the fish stayed connected. After almost fifteen minutes the fish was leadered then I grabbed it's lower jaw, holding on for all I was worth. I never guessed just how big that fish was until I grabbed it. Once it settled down a bit I used a Boga Grip to make sure we had the fish securely and could handle it safely.... Here are a few pics of that fish.... this big girl was nearly 44" long and at least 12" from her back down to her belly at the widest point. We didn't make any attempt to weigh her, wanting to have her back in the water as quickly as possible. I estimated this fish at nearly 30lbs (my own personal best on fly was 22lbs weighed, this was a lot bigger...) We slowly towed her for several minutes to make sure she was in good shape before the release... This fish of a lifetime, on the lightest of leaders with no shock tippet, was just an outstanding catch on a Sage 10wt rod. Michael will have a hard time doing any better. Unlike most really big snook that you find near ocean inlets or hanging out under bridges in strong currents... this big girl was in a very quiet backwater hanging out in the light by a small dock in a really nice neighborhood.... Later that night it was Neil's turn and he finally got his first tarpon on fly in the shadows under a bridge. Just like Michael's fish we got to see the fish strike. Here's a few pics... This nice small tarpon was taken with an 8wt rod, note the really good fighting position in the first two pics. Tarpon are beaten a lot quicker if you keep your rod position as low as possible. This 20lb fish was the perfect size for that first tarpon on fly (and just the right size for an 8wt rod..). Both great fish last night were taken on the same small pattern that we use most nights. Here's a pic.... Tied up on a strong 1/0 or 2/0 hook the Night Fly has been my standard night pattern for more than thirty years now.... Between day trips to the Everglades out of Flamingo or Everglades City and night trips in Biscayne Bay every day (or night) is just getting better and better as we move toward that first real temperature break in late October. Our fishing now is as good as you'll find anywhere in the world.... Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  11. it's been a long night.... that Poor Boy leader system I just described was used to catch and release a monster snook earlier tonight. My own personal best snook on fly is 22lbs.... this fish looked to be nearly 30lbs and my angler was using a 10wt with no shock tippet at all.... I'll post a report later today once I've had some sleep - I have pictures! The report will be on the general fly fishing board.
  12. We do break our share of rods on my skiff.. Funny thing - they're rarely broken on a fish, mostly everything from big feet on down. If you're anywhere near us you'll hear my telling my anglers not to "high stick" when there's a good fish getting close to the skiff, then to "give with your arms if there's any sudden surges when the fish is close. We needed every bit of luck and skill last night after my angler hooked a monster snook on a 10wt. I still don't believe the size of that fish (my own personal best on fly was only 22lbs. Later on today once I've had some sleep I'll post up a report and the rest of the details but I think the fish may have been as much as 30lbs - I have pictures.....
  13. We use a simple "Poor Boy" leader for most of our reds in water that's more than a foot deep. All of my fly lines have a permanent butt section spliced to the fly line with a surgeon's loop at the bitter end. Here's the size/length for the butt.... 7wt-3.5 to 4' of 30lb mono, 8wt-4' of 40lb, 9wt- 4.5' of 40lb. The actual leader portion is just four or five feet of straight 20lb fluorocarbon looped onto the butt section. If we're working lots of downed trees along wild mangrove shorelines we'll have the "Poor Boy" tippet of 30lb fluoro since you never know when a snook or small grouper will be what bites while you're actually looking for reds. The Everglades is really hard on leaders in mangrove country... Tight lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  14. Some fish boogie and others don't. Like Kirk I've never had any red get me or my anglers into the backing (but our bigger reds are rarely on fly....). I have had one big snook on fly that burned a fly line and almost 100 yards of backing the first run (but must admit that was unusual - they mostly settle the fight very quickly if they're big and powerful). Bigger snook just rarely need to make long runs before they've buried your fly line up into one snag or other (bridge pilings a specialty for big snook). Other species will give you a good look at your backing, a standard bonefish (under 10lbs) will burn almost 100 yards on that first run and subsequent runs will be less (unless you've got shark problems). Bigger bones, over 10 lbs, are a different proposition entirely - they'll burn that first 100 then pause a moment... Just when you think you've turned a really big bonefish, they'll start their second 100 yards - that's when you get into trouble since your backing is actually dragging bottom no matter how high you mount your flyrod.... In the days that I hunted permit on the flats it was rarely with a fly rod but I'm sure that most of those guys are going to need every bit of the backing you have once they're above 15lbs (and I've actually seen one or two that looked nearly 50lbs oceanside of Key Largo...). These days most of our permit are out on shallow wrecks on the gulf side of the 'Glades. Permit in 10 to 15 feet of water behave much more like big jacks (see below). The fish that I expect to really need backing for are sharks, tarpon, and critters like big jack crevalle. For all of those guys 200 yards of backing may need to be assisted with some serious boat action to keep from being spooled. By the way, tonight we'll be sight fishing baby tarpon (mostly under 30lbs) with 8 and 9wt rods - every one of them will take us well into the backing for most of the fight since they usually go down current from whatever bridge we find them at.... All of this is aimed at inshore fly rodding. The moment you head out towards the reef or bluewater 300 yards of backing is a minimum requirement. A good friend of mine got a once in a lifetime shot to fish marlin on fly down in Panama a few years back. On the water the captain told him to set his drag at zero (not the slightest drag at all). He complied but thought it not needed. He actually was lucky enough to sight and hook a small black (300lb range). Here's what happened - he hooked up and watched his line scream off down into the backing in one or two seconds... Then while his line was howling straight away from the stern the fish jumped 100 yards in front of the boat (that's right, while the line is going one way the fish had reversed course and was going the opposite way).... No, he didn't win the fight - but he told me that the slightest drag would have parted the line - just from the water pressure alone.... Don't think I'll ever get to try it but 500 yards of backing might not be enough in that situation... Tight lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  15. I've washed both rooster saddles/necks and bucktail as a first step before dyeing. The advice I was given many years ago (late seventies) was to use Dawn dishwashing detergent in warm water wih several cold rinses. It was right on the money (use Dawn for animal fats, Joy to remove petroleum products or synthetic based oils or greases). Once the pieces were washed and rinsed they were laid out on newspaper and turned frequently to aid in the drying process. For feathers on skin you could also clothespin them up onto a laundry line (I preferred onto a chainlink fence) for the final drying. This allowed the feathers (particularly neck hackles - large for tarpon flies)to fluff up. The downside to hanging is that your feathers will naturally curve as they dry (handy for tarpon flies, not so much for other needs). However you wash make sure to thoroughly rinse, and be very certain your materials are fully dry before storage.... (that's one of those "Ask me how I know" propositions...). Tight lines Bob LeMay (954)435-5666
  16. Great looking shrimpy.... I'm back on the water tomorrow night (we'll be sightfishing small to medium tarpon) I'll bet that bug in all white would do just fine for fish hanging out in docklights or in the shadows up under local bridges. Very nice. Tight lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  17. As a purely saltwater guy... all of my reels hold backing (and I want a minimum of 200 yards of the stuff under my fly line). Makers of dacron braid are fond of labeling the stufff they're trying to sell you "fly line backing" but any decent quality dacron will do just fine (and Micron is probably the best dacron I've ever used). My standards for dacron are 20lb for reels that are 9wt or smaller and 30lb for reels that will be holding larger lines. That 200 yard minimum is for inshore use, for offshore I'd want 300 yards as a minimum (and maybe more, lots more if it's tuna or billfish being hunted....). Like many I was a bit skeptical of the new super braids (and for those that use PowerPro, Spiderwire, etc. you might want to try Sufix braid - it just is head and shoulders better than some of the original braids on the market). Yes, the stuff really will cut you when a big fish is screaming off your drag (so you keep your fingers away until the spool quits turning...). Yes, one of the chief complaints is that it will tend to cut into itself if not spooled properly (a cotton glove while using lots and lots of tension when spooling it initially will cure that problem cold...). Yes your initial turns of braid on the spool will tend to slip (that's easily cured with a single layer of masking tape on the base of the spool before your start winding on your super braid). Lastly is the concern over super braid tending to actually cut a groove into your guides. I bought that proposition for many years until I actually began to use braid on both spin and conventional reels. I have yet to see the first sign of any grooving on my guides (and I build and use all my own rods so I'd be the first guy to notice if that particular problem occurred). In short, with a few precautions those super braids work just fine for backing and many of my fly customers show up with their reels loaded with that kind of backing. The only advice I'd give is to use a bit heavier backing than you normally would if using super braid. Most that I know use 50lb since it's just a bit smaller than the standard 20lb backing. These new lines will provide a lot more backing, they'll survive real world hazards better than standard backing, and most of the "drawbacks" are easily surmounted. There is one minor problem with super braids that I haven't addressed and that is they're a bit harder to tie a knot in properly. For those used to tying up a Bimini twist to double dacron... you're going to need a 40 turn bimini with super braid. You'll have to experiment a bit as well to find out which other knots work as well. Uni to uni knot connections work quite well with super braids (use a nine turn uni-knot with doubled braid to a three or four turn uni-knot of doubled mono, for example). Can't tell you how many of my anglers have shown up with first rate gear, nicely set up by their home fly shops, that fails the knot test the first time any real pressure is exerted. One of the things I routinely do is double check all of my angler's leader, and leader to fly line connections... You'd be surprised how many of them fail (and it sure is nice to find out before you hook a big tarpon or other really powerful fish). One other thought about backing, this time about dacron.... Both dacron and the super braids are synthetic lines... so no matter how ugly or stained they get (mildew, etc) they don't ever rot and pretty much will not deteriorate on the reel so you won't need to be changing out your backing unless you've lost some of it or it's become abraded during extended battles with big fish... No it won't look good but once it again it doesn't rot or deterioate on the spool.... Hope this helps Tight lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  18. A few months back I got rabbit skins from two different sources and was very pleased with each place. They were Wapsi Fly (you'll have to get your local shop to order from them) and Cascade Crest. Both outfits have been suppliers of mine for many years.... I buy both un-cut and pre-stripped rabbit for different uses... Hope this helps Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954)435-5666
  19. I use the same Pentax Optio W80 for all my photo work from shop photos with a tripod all the way to daily on the water pics.... For serious closeups (flies, knots, technical stuff) I try to not even touch the camera (I use a timed release). Everything is directly downloaded to my computer for sizing, organization, etc. I've not yet done any enhancing, preferring the actual picture every time (although with closeups I'll uusually do a variety of light sources from direct to artificial even flash the choose the one that best shows the bug..). Here's a few more samples -the shark pic was taken last Friday along the gulf coast of the Everglades. It's a medium sized lemon shark - about 8' long and 150lbs...
  20. Because I'm generally fishing out of a guide skiff (think bonefish boat) most of my pics are of customers. When I'm on my own exploring (or whatever excuse is needed when I take time off from shopwork) I've learned over the years to bring a towel and wet it before it's needed. When I have a good fish that I want to photo, I lay that towel on the deck, then lay the fish on it just long enough for a photo and usually include whatever rod I was using for perspective... It helps that I keep my camera on a lanyard made of mono (and the lanyard's long enough to allow the camera (a waterproof Pentax) to sit in my pants pocket until needed. That wetted down towel provides a good surface for the fish to lay on and i'm able to release it afterwards in pretty good shape. When I'm out exploring I rarely pick up a fly rod since I'm trying to cover as much ground as possible - as quickly as possible. When I'm solo I may cover as much as 100 miles in a day running through the Everglades along the mangrove coasts. A day or so later when I have anglers with fly gear I'm sure they wonder why we fish one spot or another - it really helps when you actually know the fish are there from a day or so before.... Hope this helps and I'll add a few pics to show the results.... Tight Lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  21. Several reasons why I went to a lanyard.... not the least of which is all the things you need both hands for when a fish gets near the boat (or you have to drop your camera to use the pushpole, etc.). I've already had an earlier Optio go bad (the screen cracked and the factory replaced it - but I was the one paying...). Eventually it was no longer waterproof (found that out when I fell off of the poling platform as we were poling up on a big tarpon - no, the tarpon was not impressed...) so the Optio W-80 was its replacement. For ordinary anglers that have the luxury of just using their camera when their companion has a fish on that little float looks great...
  22. Panama, didn't know you were down - glad to see a report from you (and aren't trout the best fish in bad conditions?). Here's a tip for that next camera (my current one is a Pentax Optio W-80).. Although it's waterproof (something I'm not eager to test), like all cameras it doesn't float so I've always been worried that if dropped in the water it will sleep with the fishes.... I took a length of 30lb mono and made a lanyard that's just long enough that while around my neck the camera can hang inside my pants pocket. That way it's out of the way all day long until needed, fairly protected (turned so the all important screen is in towards me) but ready at a moment's notice.... I figure that my fishing reports aren't worth much without a photo or two. Tight lines Bob LeMay
  23. Not sure but suspect that you'll have a tough time finding "tropical" lines in that light weight size. Tropical lines are meant for the salt usually and I'll be surprised if they come in sizes smaller than a six weight.... Tight lines Bob LeMay (954) 435-5666
  24. Here's one other minor factor when tying with red hackle (saddles or neck...) to keep in mind. Many classic saltwater (or freshwater bass) patterns are in a combination of red and white (usually the red end of things is the collar...). Dyed red feathers may be one of the least color fast materials around. A red and white fly just doesn't stay that way for long once it's wet. Bad enough that the red fades but the white materials begin to turn a light shade of pink.... Whenever I can I use pink or fl. pink instead of red for that red/white pattern. In use the white actually stays white since the dyed pink end of things is very color fast compared to red... Here are a few samples of that pink/white color scheme... Tight lines Bob LeMay (954)435-5666
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