tjm

I did not know that Gudebrod was out of business, I see their thread for sale here and there, not that I need or use it.

Thanks for the reply Steve.

Mike can they ask the value of an item in a general thread like this? This isn't the trading forum, so?

Wow!

Actually I've never heard of it, so.. Like mikechelle long time Verizon (since whenever they bought out Alltel-was with only Alltel prior) for the same reason, almost always get a signal, and I live in an area with spotty reception for other companies and Alltel had nationwide coverage way back when we first got cells, so travel was never a problem.We've never paid a roaming fee.

Don't wash them and don't use the zippers- two most important things to know. And of course don't try to move much.

Not so big, only difference in domestic hogs and feral hogs is feed and care, hogs butchered for lard, bacon and hams 50 75 years ago commonly ran 4-600#. In the late 20th century the efficiency of feed conversion studies suggested that more money could be made by butchering smaller hogs and 230# size markets were developed. Today we eat baby hogs as a given. I saw a state champion hog at the fair in Sedalia, Mo. that weighed a bit over 1500# and back in the 1930s a guy in Tn. raised one that weighed 2,552 pounds. The last sale barn hog I bought to butcher weighed 460#. Chops bigger than a plate.

I'd rub that reel seat threads down with paraffin, then scrub all the wax off with a cloth, just like waxing the ferrules, try to rub it clean- I have found wax to be a fair lubricant if it is rubbed well enough. (car wax or wood finish wax have also worked a time or two) A chamois or moleskin shim under the foot might let the seat fit better without over tightening, or not.

I have been using these sewing machine bobbins on my Frank Matarelli bobbin holder (and several others) for ~40 years, the plastic bobbins would be less likely to damage your bobbin holder. I put all threads on small bobbins because when I started tying the thread spools came in odd sizes that didn't fit well in the bobbin holder, or so I thought. I have a 2" long piece of wood dowel that fits tightly in the sm bobbin and I turn it with a battery drill motor. 20-50 spools of thread take up a lot less space on bobbins than on spools. Only down side is the labels are all gone now and all I know about the threads are what I can see- color, approximate size, and know that nylon is the only material I recall buying. I really don't think the fish cares about the manufacturer anyway....

Good fish.

Last study I read said they (several years ago now & iirc in NJ) survive best if when you cut the leader you leave about a foot of leader hanging out of the mouth- this supposedly will keep the hook from blocking the food in take. in that study the cut short as possible leaders led to mortality, supposedly from the hook blocking the gullet . I believe a Canadian study on pike about the same time indicated that hooks don't dissolve readily but that fish often rid them selves of the hook within 48 hours. I've read several places that Mikechell's method works well, on bass. My hooks are all barbless or bent down barbs because I believe they penetrate better, and they usually come out pretty easy, but if I can't easily reach it with forceps, I have cut the tippet long as suggested in that study- however if a fish is bleeding I don't have much hope that it will survive, if a legal fish I'd sure dispatch and eat. If a no keeper you have no choice but to release it, "unharmed". I have also read anecdotes of fish caught with hook and some leader hanging from the vent, as if passed through the digestive system.

I think that is one of the early Sage fly rod blanks. "B" = blank, 680 = 6wt. 8'. GFL was on the early models before the Graphite II, RP, RPL, LL, SP, XP ... This would agree with the guy selling a nos blank a couple months ago, said he used to build them- blank went for $135 the second time he listed it. So that makes your deal pretty nice. Fenwick used to mark blanks as FL-xxx rather than the factory built FF-xxx, don't know if that continued under all the various owners or not.

I should add that what prompted brother to tell me that story, as I was driving him to a VA appointment we passed a beggar on a corner with crutches and an hour or so later passed a burger joint about 1/2 block away from that corner with the crutches laid up against an outside wall while the guy was on his lunch break.

We stopped at a burger place in Bentonville, Ar last week and the ground out side the place had thousands of black crickets, area ~8'x40', lady said they came from the down spouts with the rain and that what we were seeing was far less than had been there the day before. I haven't noticed any place else in the area that has more of crickets or hoppers than in a normal year.

With wind it may help to learn the "Belgian" cast. It can twist the line over time but it keeps the leader tight throughout the cast. In the case of a "tailwind" I'd keep the back cast lower and shorter and fling the forward cast up and long, letting the wind carry it. I would also say that the leader you describe may be too long for windy bass fishing. With a rig like yours I might use 3' of 15# mono knotted to 3' of 8# tippet, for 6' overall leader length. And I tend to agree with Mike in that you are likely starting forward a bit late letting the line drop before it moves forward. You may be simply trying to cast too far for the line speed you are developing, something that plagues me. So much so that I marked some lines with a "stop casting and fish distance".

Younger brother and his teenage grandson were observing a "homeless" panhandler several years ago and the young man felt sorry for him and asked if they could give him some money, brother said "watch this and learn" then went up to the beggar and asked "Got change for a hundred?" beggar pulled out a wad and counted out 5 twenties cool a can be. I recall back in the "70s reading in the Boston paper about a few beggars in Boston and in Washington DC that were bringing in over a hundred grand a year and lived in good neighborhoods. I don't listen to those calls or read their mailings, I think they have my name on the "waste of time, don't bother list". If I could just explain to the guarantee extension people that my truck is a 1985 and the guarantee expired before I got it...

That's what I always say, and they usually agree.

Oh, I see, we are guessing what some one did. I think the tail, under/over wing, cheek and throat/belly are all the same white synthetic stuff and colored with marker, stuff looks like the Bonnie Braid carded out about 3/4 the way to straight, but I don't use synthetics much and it could be poly yarn or congo or or. Think the eyes are either plastic beads or melted mono- there is a 3-D look there, they line up with the shank. I think the piping over/under-body is folded over the beads in the fashion that flytire said. I'm not seeing any ribbing over the tinsel body or if there is I'd guess oval tinsel rib in same color as body. Gill is just scarlet thread and head is UV cure.

Even funnier if you have walked through the store and looked the clothes, My very first thought there was "this is where the effeminate loggers shop!'' Fire-hose fashion.and the "bullpen briefs". Reminds me I need to look at their on-line catalog and see if there is anything I can convert that gift card to. Maybe a fire-hose rug or slippers.

I never bought Filson, I tried some on when they opened a store near me years ago; I believe they are made for camp, and fit best when standing still, but that is kinda my experience with Carhartt also, I don't like stiff. And the coarser weave of canvas abrades easier than finer weaves like twill. Activity levels and exposure to concrete and diesel can give a different perspective. I class Red Wing boots in the don't buy group too, and lots of folks think they are fine. Gear and clothing are best chosen for the activity and lifestyle where they will be used, a 3wt flyrod isn't for tuna nor a 10' casting rig good for brook trout. I've never heard of Courteney boots before and after finding them on the net would say they look comfortable but fragile. Rubber soles in particular don't last well on farm or construction where they will encounter oil sooner or latter. Most of what they call boots, I'd call shoes, to me a boot covers above the ankle or calf; however if they work for you and last ten years average. stick with them.

Can't help; I've never seen anything quite like it. Watching.

Only had the insulated bibs and a jacket; all were binding to work in, uncomfortably ill cut for the size they claimed to be and the bibs shrunk when washed and wore out quicker than less costly brands like Berne or Walls. My advice is to buy Carhartts two sizes too big and find a smaller guy to give them to. Oh and the price is not quite comparable with the quality. I suspect the price raised my expectations beyond their ability to provide, but bibs should have legs larger than yoga pants and the bib should come up over my chest and the suspenders should not be at maximum length for fellow of average height. Carhartt made their name by building canvas pants in a denim market, canvas should outwear denim, if you don't consider that one is an apple and the other is a pear. Yet in working construction side by side with a Carhartt wearer Big Smiths lasted longer. As to them selling boots and underwear, I don't buy cake from a butcher nor meat from a baker, why would I buy boots from a tailor or pants from a cobbler, a company that sells both probably buys both from another source. Makes all their products suspect, imo. flytire, I don't think you have missed out by not giving those brands a lot of attention. I have an unused gift card from Duluth Trading, twice through the store and I suspect that card will remain unused.

I use all the above and store those in a large tote bin. The shoe boxes are especially useful and come in a few sizes and styles for varying prices. I also like these https://www.dollartree.com/tool-bench-hardware-plastic-compartmented-storage-cases/206348 for small items like hooks or bead chain: several will fit inside one of the other containers such as a shoe box. The disposable foil loaf pans make handy open containers and stack inside each other. Walk through the big box store and all the dollar stores with an open mind and you will find many possible solutions.

Not a fan. They have a nice color is the best I can say about them.

Bass Pro Cabela's Amazon, eBay most fly tying supply houses? https://www.amazon.com/Curious-Minds-Busy-Bags-Puffer/dp/B07PJNV7NL/ref=asc_df_B07PJNV7NL/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726543156287&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZJFJZ3/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07SZJFJZ3&pd_rd_w=ZQ5sl&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=47m0W&pf_rd_r=902MZH5K28WP6NJWXY4W&pd_rd_r=8a252684-4b51-44e4-87c6-df6df0de649d&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTzlHSjM0SUNCOFdRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDQ5ODU2MVQyUUxSQlJNREhaSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDU1MDE5MkVUVkVXNUJIQjc1RyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=