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Fly Tying

Hardyrod1974

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About Hardyrod1974

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/29/1953

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Smallmouth Bass
  • Security
    22

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  • Location
    New Hampshire

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  1. I still tie on my Thompson "A" vise that I purchased for $10 in 1971. I bought it from Reed Tackle in Fairfield NJ. I also have a Vienard "Midge" vise that I use for the smaller stuff. That was purchased in1973. I haven't run across anything I need to tie (freshwater) that couldn't be tied on either of these vises.
  2. I'm looking to get a pair of hip boots for my small stream fishing. I'd prefer to actually try them on in person rather than order on-line. The local Bass Pro Shop is still open here in NH. They carry a line of boots called "White River Fly Shop". Does anyone have any experience with these boots? Thank you.
  3. Charlie P- Can you tell me about that round bin that seems to be attached to the base of your vise? I'll assume it holds your trimmed material scraps. Did you make it yourself? Thank you Richard
  4. Mark, Your post a page back, in the picture where you mention the wreath, to the left is a metal(?) frame with spools on it. Where did that come from? Thanks
  5. Not everyone sees the need to wear a pack or vest when fly fishing....
  6. I hope to do a lot more fishing this year and some of it will be in streams wearing waders. I'm pondering the use of cleats or studs or chains in some instances. And I got to thinking about how well sound travels underwater, I remember as a kid banging some rocks around while swimming under water and how loud the sound was. If my waders have some sort of metal attachment on the soles, should I be concerned about the noise spooking the fish while I'm walking around???
  7. This is a progress report on my fly tying bench. It is being done in the Adirondack rustic style. The 4x4 legs are temporary and will be replaced by Yellow Birch logs after they season properly. I stood one up in front of the bench for the picture. The "live edge" bench top is 2 1/8" White Pine, cut 40 years ago. The shelf above it is also White Pine. The other shelves and back board are Birch plywood. The vertical supports holding the first shelf are the ends from the slab the shelf was cut from. One picture shows some segments from a Yellow Birch sapling clamped to the backboard. This is to give you some idea of how the backboard will be framed. After the pieces are attached, the plywood to the outside of the saplings will be cut away. A lot of rustic furniture is designed as you go along. You get just so far, then you consider the options available for the next stage. Another picture shows an oval metal frame with a thick piece of beveled glass (from an old car??) This might be installed where I set it and the birch saplings will butt up to it or maybe I will add a small piece of plywood at the top and let the sapling frame go over it. Maybe I'll not use it. Time will tell. I'll look for a picture of a Smallmouth bass, trout or salmon that fits nicely behind it. My wife might paint a fish on the back side, or ???? The two sets of drawers came from old sewing machines. The set on the left are from a Remington sewing machine made just after the Civil war. They made lots of stuff when the gun business fell off. The pulls are marked "the Remington", that was the model. The final stage will include a lot of trim work using small sticks, birch bark and maybe some small pine cones split lengthwise and who knows what else. Some of the upper shelf supports may have some pockets carved in them and some classic wet flies set in them. I may do a similar thing on the bench top and fill the pockets with some clear 2 part epoxy. Updates to follow. Rich
  8. jdowney, If in fact you are going to toss those old necks, I'll take them. I'll pay postage. Let me know what you have. Rich
  9. Flytire, At this point sending it back is not realistic. Say it only costs $3 to send it back and I get the $5 purchase cost refunded. Add the original $4.99 shipping cost to the $3 to return it. So in the end I've spent $7.99 for postage for a book I no longer own.
  10. I received my copy in the mail yesterday. I did look at the Amazon preview (I wish it had showed more). I took a chance. What Whatfly said about scope and not detail is very true. If I had the book in hand before paying for it, I'd still have my $9.99 to spend on something more worth while. Live and learn
  11. David, I was in your place many years ago, around 1974. I had been tying for myself and friends for about 4 years. I tied for some local shops and for Eric Lieser at the Fly Fisherman's Bookcase in NY state. I did OK, made enough money to have Walton Powell make me a custom bamboo rod and buy some Hardy reels. I sort of enjoyed the whole process, did it for about 3 years but not full time. I wouldn't do it again though. You get an order for 12 dozen dry flies WITH a deadline and all of a sudden your "fun" pass-time isn't as much fun as it was doing new patterns for yourself or maybe a dozen here and a half dozen there for some friends. Tying commercially comes at a cost though. You now have a deadline. You will possibly be asked to tie flies that you have a hard time with initially. You can't say "no" the shop owner too often before the calls stop. Are you in school? Do you have another job? As an experiment, sit down at your tying bench/ table and tie 3 dozen of one fly, one size of your choosing with just a couple of rest breaks. Time yourself for each dozen. Then put your flies in a big group and see if they are ALL the same. Buy a few flies from a couple of the bigger shops, use them as your model. Sit down and tie a dozen of each, do they EACH look the same as the model? How long does it take you? How many per hour? Do the math. What's your time worth? You will get faster as time passes and that will help. Give it a try. Please try what I have mentioned though. Regards, Richard
  12. Has anyone out there used this book? I have a good handle on the basics and do OK ish with the easy stuff but would like to learn more. Thank you. Richard
  13. Thank you guys very much!!! I looked around at the various versions of that kind of epoxy on Amazon and it seems it is just what I want. I put some on my "list" for the future.
  14. My currently under construction fly tying bench is built around a 2 1/8" thick white pine slab. I'm thinking about carving/ routing a 4" x 6" x 1" deep pocket off to the side somewhere and creating a small "stream scene". I'd like to line it with some pebbles and sand and sticks and also have a short length of leader with a streamer tied to it. I know how I'd set everything up but what kind of clear "stuff" can I fill this pocket with? It has to dry clear. I've seen some bar tables and counter tops coated with some sort of clear material (epoxy?) but I don't know what it was. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you Richard
  15. Gentlemen, Thank you very much for your suggestions!! I started to go in Flytire's direction. I found several components online and was planning a trip to home depot to buy the rest. Then Tidewaterfly posted the picture of the C-clamp with the welded nuts. Right now I'm going to try that. A friend will weld a block of some yet to be determined shape of steel to a 3" clamp and I will tap a hole in the side for a set screw or bolt. A little back ground on my under construction bench. It will be in the Adirondack rustic style. A friend gave me a live edge slab, 2-1/8" thick which will be the bench top. I plan on using my Thompson A vice that I have tied on since 1970/71. I'm hesitant to cut a groove in the slab because that won't allow for any lateral movement of the vise. I don't want to go the pedestal route because the vise would be too high and I don't want to cut down the shaft of my vise either. So the clamp and welded block meets all my requirements for now. Again, Thank you all for your replies. Richard
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