Hare's Ear Nymph and dubbing....

[rawfish 0]

So I am following skip morriss's book and I am up to Hare's Ear Nymphs and I am really excited because I can theoretically use them on my trip this week. I am having some major problems....

1. I either spin the dubbing on my thread too tight and it looks nothing like the picture or its so loose and fluffy that the dubbing comes off the thread in a big clump just as i am turning the thread around the hook.

2. Forget about tapering...

Any advice on the hare's ear nymph for a lost soul?

[flyboyutah 0]

I had a simular problem I found for me was to switched to a tac ier wax so I could add more dubbing . Also for the dubbing I switched to (dont tell :hyst: ) using natural red fox squirrel hair instead , it seems to give that more "hairy" look that the picture give. O and also I found that if the hair pulls off as Im rapping thread Id just stop hold thread tight with odd hand and rewrap dubbing on string

Hope that helps.

[atroutbum2 0]

My guess as to what is happening is that you are trying to put too much dubbing on the thread at one time. Correctly applied, the dubbing should just coat the thread.

 

What i do when dubbing a hares ear ( or any other fly) is hold a tiny clump of dubbing in my hand and then pull a bit of fibers from the edge of the clump. Spin those arround the thread. If more dubbing is needed then repeat the process.

 

Done be affraid of putting a couple of layers of dubbing coated thread . Thats how you build a tapered dubbed body.

[Joe Hard 0]

When you add dubbing take out a pinch, Put half of that back. Make sure your thread stays tight and pinch the dubbing on the thread. Then spin it onto thread. Keeping the thread tight spin it in one direction. I usually spin clockwise. spin it tight onto the thread. Try to form a cigar shape with the dubbing to get a taper. After you wrap your dubbing and rib take your bodkin or a small velcro brush, and pick out the dubbing.

 

http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?sho...hl=Velcro+brush.

 

If you find your dubbing is still not staying on the hook try using a dubbing loop. Spin it tightly but not so tight that it will snap your thread. You can realy pack the dubbing on in a loop and if spun tight can pick or brush out the dubbing so that it is real buggy. Kepp trying it will come to you, good dubbing makes a real nice fly. Again dont use too much it will be easier to dub and make a better fly. Try a pinch about the size of a dime, then divide it in half.

[flytire 0]

Just remember when spinning dubbing, less is best! Just do what atroutbum2 says and you should be all right. You can always add another layer of dubbing if needed.

 

When I use dubbing, I can see the thread through the dubbing.

[Soft-hackle 0]

rawfish,

I guess I'll not be in the majority, here, since dubbing directly to the tying thread is much easier and quicker. I will say that dubbing a body by the Leisenring method will produce strong, buggy looking bodies for wets, emergers, and nymphs. The method also gives the appearance of a more translucent body. (see photo of my Leisenring Spider, below) The process is done on waxed thread, off the fly, between the ends of a piece of thread folded over itself. The thread is twisted to form a dubbing brush, which is then tied on to the fly and wrapped. It takes a bit of practice to learn the process, but the results are very effective. To learn more see if you can secure a copy of a book The Sports Illustrated Book Of Wet Fly Fishing. It illustrates the process, or PM me for more info.

 

Mark

 

[Chase Creek 0]

When I want a buggy look, I almost always use a dubbing loop. On a smaller fly, you really don't need very much dubbing at all - when you spin the loop, the dubbing sticks out all over, so when it's wrapped on the hook, it looks really buggy.

If I don't want to use a dubbing loop, and still want a buggy look,I'll do it by "touch dubbibg". Wax the thread (don't goop it on, a little goes a long way) then take a small wad of dubbing, touching it to the waxed thread up and down the length of thread you need dubbed. You'll end up with a fuzzy looking thread to wrap arond the hook. It's best to use thread color that kind of matches your dubbing.

If you haven't tried it, after the body is wrapped, fluff it out with your bodkin, or better, a piece of velcro (the hook side). I have a small pc of velcro wrapped around a dowell for this.

Hope this helps. And as said before, the more you tie, the easier any of these proceedures get.

[flyfishingtaz 0]

I almost always use dubbing loops when dubbing a body. 1. the loop holds it securely, and if your new to dubbing you wont get discurouged. 2. I can never get a wiry looking body when i dub. it always comes out smoothe and tapered. and 3. loops can easily be made, and then set aside so you can grab em later and tie em in. look for a dubbing brush maker. you can find on most fly shop websites, and can easily be made with 2 nails driven into opposing ends with a groove for the dubbing going between the two nails. set your dubbing in the groove, then wax ur thread set it on the dubbing, and twist it to cover the tread. once its done set it aside for when you need it. it s less frusterating then dubbing at the vise. and try applying like a +. instead of going with the thread, set it accross in the opposing direction. gives a really buggy look to the fly.

[carlp5351 0]

Are you using pre-packaged hares ear dubbing, If you are that is the problem. dose not have enough gaurd hair's in it. Go buy a hares mask, clip the hair off the shoter hair between the eyes and above the nose, Put in coffee grinder and blend for a couple seconds. use this dubbing for the nymph. lot more gaurd hairs

 

 

Carl

[MTtyer 0]

An easy way to control the amount of dubbing for a beginner is what G. LaFontaine refered to as "touch dubbing". Using a Very sticky wax, coat the thread and lightly touch small clumps of dubbing to it. Only a small bit will stick and you can regulate a more even strand of dubbed thread. When it looks about right then, and only then, spin it a bit on the thread. Hope this makes since.

[Buzzby 0]

Full dress Atlantic salmon fly tyers sometimes use liquid wax to apply very spikey materials to their thread. A shop that specializes in salmon/steelhead materials should have it.

Davy Wotton (inventor of SLF dubbing) from Wales splits his tying thread with a fine point bodkin to apply difficult dubbing. Danville's Flymaster and Flymaster Plus threads work well for this as they're not twisted threads.

[arkle 0]

Hi there,

 

For probably the most complete article(s) you're ever likely to see concerning Hares fur and the like there is a furom run by Paul Arden over here in the U.K. called the board go to www.sexyloops.com and no that's not a wind up. Look for a thread by a Scottish guy, Mike Connor who has written and photgraphed pages about hares fur/ear also several other topics you may find useful. Hope that helps.

 

John

[Bruce Derington 0]

All the responses have merit and one of my favorite ways to start dubbing the abdomen, is the same as MTtyer suggest by appling wax on thread then use the touch technique this puts a very small amt. on the thread and once you have a base coat its much easier to add dubbing to dubbing and you can build it up to the desired shape and size

[CM_Stewart 0]

I don't think Mike Connor's articles are still on sexyloops (at least, I cannot find them). Here are a couple links that might help, though.

 

http://www.flyforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8657

 

http://www.flyforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=2296

 

 

[arkle 0]

If you go to www.sexyloops.com then hit the second button saying "the board" that will take you to the forum, then go to fly tying, and you WILL see it, last post on that thread was on 26th March 07, by Mike Connor at 12.35 and it had 600 veiwings at 20.00 G.M.T. this evening. Hope that helps.

John