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Capt. Matt C

Bead Heads and Midges

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What percentage of your midge patterns include bead heads and WHY? -Other than to add weight to the fly.

 

How important are bead heads in the anatomy of a midge fly pattern?

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I think mostly it just helps them sink. Flash is another consideration as an attractor variable. I use a bead head on all my stillwater patterns. The naturals kind of bounce when they swim to the surface. Up some, down a little, up some, down a little and the BH helps this effect when the water is very still. I use a lot of white or pearl beads for my midge patterns to add weight and to give the appearance of the gills.

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Hadn't thought about the click- nice idea. For me, I am sure the bead's shiny surface gives it that appearance tough outer / exoskeleton of the nymph. The colours will be very different under water - and through the eyes of a fish. Although I mainly use the bead for weight - sometimes with a wing-bud pulled over the top.

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hey capt. I wondered that for awhile myself and instead of asking I just tied a few patterns without a bead and added a few wraps of lead for weight there wasn't to much of a difference in the speed it sunk nor in the hook up rates on the river but in still water the hook up rate was much better with the beads

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I started carrying a new bead called Nymph-Heads . Their a Tungsten bead with small eyes on the sides of the beads. They come in copper,gold, black nickle,and silver. They

look pretty cool. You can check them out at www.flymenflyfishing.com (Their website)

Randy

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Most of my midges are pretty small - 20-22 so I don't have a lot of room for a bead head. I do use them on bigger nymph patterns - mostly because I like the look of the fly.

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hey capt. I wondered that for awhile myself and instead of asking I just tied a few patterns without a bead and added a few wraps of lead for weight there wasn't to much of a difference in the speed it sunk nor in the hook up rates on the river but in still water the hook up rate was much better with the beads

 

That’s interesting. I am fishing MT in April and moving to CO in June. (The area of Florida I live in does not have a fly shop, other than Bass Pro and there selection is slim pickins.) Anyway, I sat down to start filling a box with midge patterns and then came to a realization. Almost every pattern I see requires a bead or includes one.

 

I figured I could tie them and utilize my materials to give the same effect as the bead, sink rate aside.

 

I am looking for a reason to tie them without the beads to save a few bucks having to order them online.

 

In addition, being the anal retentive fly fisherman that I am, I am looking for a reason why I should not tie them without the bead.

 

P.S I wish I could experiment on a stream, that would avoid all this confusion, but FL doesnt have trout streams and snook dont eat midges.

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I don't think the bead is essential Capt.

 

When emerging they have a conspicuous swollen thorax. Imitate that, the feathery gills and throw in some red color and bit of sparkle somewhere and you should be fine.

I think most of my best midge fishing is either dry or within 5 inches of the surface anyway. If the water is too fast or you need to get deeper just take it down with larger fly.

One of my favorites is just black thread, ribbed with crystal flash, a red thread thorax coated with head cement and with a tiny bit of cdc out over the hook eye. You could even drop the cdc and I don't think it would make a big difference. Also, black thread, red crystal flash ribbing and a peacock thorax works great for me.

Now, if your fishing stillwater, then that's a different topic.

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I tie some zebra midges with beads or PT midges with beads to add flash so they can be seen easier in swifter streams (all on sz 20-22 hooks). I dont like to add much weight to a fly, except to get it to break the surface tension of the water, b/c weight kills the action of a fly. I add split shot to my leader (if legal) and/or use flourocarbon. I fish these pupa/larva deep.

 

I also tie sz 22-18 T200R pupa, with sz 22 being biot pupa and 20-18 (sometimes 16 for lakes) being PT or turkey tail body (some with a red thread for some lakes), a very fine wire rib, and a dubbed thorax. These are some of my favorite and most effective flies.

 

Unlike old hat, I rarely fish dry midge patterns, but parachute emergers are dynamite. midges are a very important food source of trout, can be tied in seconds, and I use them a lot, especially in tailwaters and spring creeks.

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I would say that 90% of my midges DO NOT use or need bead heads. Just got back from 4 days on the San Juan and midges, pupa and larva were the name of the game. Here are my most affective flies for the week.

 

IPB Image

 

Capt. These flies have proven very affective in MT as well especially on the Ruby and Beaverhead.

 

Also look at zebras, KF midge, RS2's, foam wing emergers, thread midges, shukas etc.. All do not require beads and will work great in both MT and CO.

 

If you do want a cheap source for beads go to your local Micheals or JoAnns and ask for "seed beeds" every size and color you could want and very inexpensive.

 

Good luck to you.

Josh

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