Nail knot vs loop to loop

[mikechell 0]

Thank you ... I am glad you liked it.

 

I do push the needle through the center of the fly line. If I wet the needle first, it goes a little farther. As soon as it stops moving in, I fold the fly line to the side and push the needle out.

 

I don't use superglue. I just tie a clinch knot, 6 wraps and back through the loop. It makes a small bump in the fly line, but it rarely grabs weeds or moss.

 

I've since seen a "knotless" connection where the guy used the needle, but then glued the mono and pulled it into the fly line. I have my qualms about trusting a fish to a glue only connection.

[JSzymczyk 0]

Thank you ... I am glad you liked it.

 

I do push the needle through the center of the fly line. If I wet the needle first, it goes a little farther. As soon as it stops moving in, I fold the fly line to the side and push the needle out.

 

I don't use superglue. I just tie a clinch knot, 6 wraps and back through the loop. It makes a small bump in the fly line, but it rarely grabs weeds or moss.

 

I've since seen a "knotless" connection where the guy used the needle, but then glued the mono and pulled it into the fly line. I have my qualms about trusting a fish to a glue only connection.

What you describe is the Dave Whitlock method. When done correctly, it is not a glue-only connection. I've used it for several years on my 5 weight and 3 weight lines, and have landed some very hard fighting fish with no problems. As with everything, the critical thing is to do it CORRECTLY-- braided core line, rough up the butt end of the leader with sandpaper, quickly and smoothly pull it back into the core. I was very skeptical at first too, but now I am not.

[mikechell 0]

JS ... I am confused or missing something. "When done correctly, it is not a glue-only connection." The line is pulled into the fly line with superglue on it. No matter what you do to the line, it's still basically a glue only connection, no?

 

I understand a lot of people use it, and it seems to work, but I just can't get over my own ... distrust.

 

Another reason I use the knot: All I need to carry with me is the sewing needle. I don't have to have a bottle/tube of glue with me.

[CaddisGladys 0]

Excellent video, makes perfect sense and looks increibly strong! Thank you so much.

[artimus001 0]

I don't trust welded loops. The strength of a fly line is in its core not in the "plastic" coating around it. Welded loops are not made by joining the core to itself, but by fusing the plastic coating. I like a connection that connects the core.

my thoughts exactly.

[ditz2 0]

When using the loop to loop connection and a hand shake type knot there actually very little stress on the weld itself. The actual stress in on the main line. The hand shake squeezes the coated fly line together and at least half of the stress is on the main fly line and it the coating bond tend to stretch the stress is transmitted to the main line. Now if the coating gets cut thru then there may be more stress applied to the weld but I have never had the loop coating get cut thru to the core. I suppose it could happen with large, long running fish such as some salt species or maybe steelhead. It works very much like what I think is called an Albright Knot. I'll do some research to make sure of the name.

[flytire 0]

the whitlock splice

 

http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com/pond.asp?page=4

[JSzymczyk 0]

JS ... I am confused or missing something. "When done correctly, it is not a glue-only connection." The line is pulled into the fly line with superglue on it. No matter what you do to the line, it's still basically a glue only connection, no?

 

I understand a lot of people use it, and it seems to work, but I just can't get over my own ... distrust.

 

Another reason I use the knot: All I need to carry with me is the sewing needle. I don't have to have a bottle/tube of glue with me.

when used with braided core line, and pulled tight as the glue sets, the tension of the braid partly holds the roughened leader. I had doubts about using it too, until I decided to do it and test it. It may not work well if you use a straight piece of 8 or 6 pound mono because it might be too small diameter to grip enough. On any sensible tapered leader, the tippet will break before the splice gives.

 

I don't BS around with doing those in the field either. If I for some reason need to replace an entire leader in the field, I'll do a nail knot. Truth is, I can remember exactly three times in my life I've needed to replace a whole leader while fishing and none of those were on my 3 or 5 weight. Believe it or not I do like to keep things simple... part of that is going over my gear before heading out, and making any repairs or changes before I get to the water. The majority of my lines have whipped loops I made- I prefer a loop-to-loop really, but I'm just pointing out the Whitlock method does work well.

 

Also, I have not experienced this so-called "HINGE" effect so many folks talk about... no matter what you do to join a fly line to nylon, there will be a sudden transition from one component to another. Unless you have a completely loose loop-loop, it won't "hinge". Sounds like operator headspace and timing issues to me.

[mikechell 0]

 

 

... part of that is going over my gear before heading out, and making any repairs or changes before I get to the water.

 

I go to the water with all things prepared, too. But I do just use a straight piece of mono. I also usually end up with an air knot here or there. I know, that's probably some flaw in my casting, but I don't care so much. If the knot is close to the fly, I just retie the fly. If the knot is closer to the fly line, I'll replace the mono. At least one of my 6 rods will need to be done almost every trip.

[NickJ 0]

Another vote for the Albright knot.