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carpflyguy

Making Articulated Streamer Spines

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I've been using paper clips. There are several ways to bend and shape them. The smaller ones seem about the right thickness and are easier to shape but the large ones work too. I've been using round nose pliers but the jig poopdeck posted looks much better.

 

Have any pictures? Good idea

 

Sorry I took so long. been away.

 

The image on the left shows two ways I've bent the paper clip. Either works, depends on where you want body lumps. To minimize lumps, align and trim the waste ends of whatever line you use for the hook loop so they line up with the end of the wire. Then wrap carefully to even out the body area.

 

In the right image you can see some variations of the back end. The third from the top is the poorest way because it rotates in the vise.

 

As soon as I can get in the shop I'm going to make one of those bending jigs so the eyes come out rounder and more consistant.

post-51082-0-02109100-1452559562_thumb.jpg

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many many years ago hair/bobby pins were used

 

fine-straight-2.3-inch-pin-rs.jpg

I think those would be better than paper clips but I can't find them to buy. Most have flat wires.

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I've also thought about that JaksonK, been watching jerry french on youtube and his composite ooops for steelhead. Realized that any old hook and a pair of wire cutters is all thats needed for a shank.

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I've also thought about that JaksonK, been watching jerry french on youtube and his composite ooops for steelhead. Realized that any old hook and a pair of wire cutters is all thats needed for a shank.

I kind of just came up with it on my own because those shanks are so expense. Found a bunch of packs of mustad bass hooks in assorted sizes. I've worried about slipping when using that shank for the lead hook in an articulated pattern, but after using superglue and trying some of them, I haven't had any problems with it yet.

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Realized that any old hook and a pair of wire cutters is all thats needed for a shank.

That's true for A shank on an articulated fly. If you want to do a backbone of several shafts, you'll find it very hard to put a second bend into a hook shank. Even the cheapest hooks are too brittle for that.

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Lots of options already stated. I find the craft wire is softer overall than the leader wire I have been using. Once you close up the DYI shanks, they will all work, since most flies have the shanks behind the hook, there is little chance they would pull apart. As stated before, my wire is currently a 105# leader wire, and I am sure that heavier leader wire will work as well. If you have access to leader wire, try some, if not, then try the craft wire from Joann Fabrics.

Do you think the 105lb wire is about the ideal thickness? Or should I go up a bit in diameter? How does it compare to the thickness of a standard wire hook? And, do you think heavier wire would be too difficult to bend neatly with round nose pliers?

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If you need to heat that wire to get a "smooth bend" something is not right.

You dont "need" the heat to do it, but It takes some of the stress off of the metal. And allows for smoother curves and sharper angles.

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True Mike, for multi-shank flies old hooks won't cut it. Was thinking of intruder type patterns or wire articulated flies like JacksonK mentioned. If my local flyshop hadn't had a 50% sale after christmas i'd be making my own shanks by now :P

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The 105# leader wire I use bends easily without head. I do use round nose pliers, and make some short bends to get a nice round bend on each end. Then I use the thread to close up and tie the last (tail) section. Once the back one I link it to the next section and close that up with thread, and a little flexible cement.

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The 105# leader wire I use bends easily without head. I do use round nose pliers, and make some short bends to get a nice round bend on each end. Then I use the thread to close up and tie the last (tail) section. Once the back one I link it to the next section and close that up with thread, and a little flexible cement.

I do mine a little different, that's probably why thr heat part seemed strange I have two pins set in a board one for the round bend another for the little kick out after the bend so there parallel, if im making one ill just use pliers if im doing a dozen I just heat the wire and pull around pins and done, I should have probably explained that.

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