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heavynets

A Peak Vise Improvement

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Nice!!!

 

I think it would be most excellent if it was held in place by a set screw. That way you could raise and lower the jaws to keep different size hooks on the perfect centerline.

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Regardless of how you actually made the arm, you should look into getting a design patent on it because that solves a problem just about all tyers encounter. That being more clearance to the back of the hook. I could see a lot of vise manufactures stealing that design.

 

Dave

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Yeah, except a patent cost around 10 grand. The only price I found for stainless steel printing was $5.00 per cc. That mean this piece cost, what $35.00 to have made? You need to sell about 670 at $50.00 each to make your money back.

 

Sorry ... just playing devil's advocate.

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What really sucks is if you just start selling them on your own, a company with bucks and lawyers does patent it and runs you off the plantation.

 

I like the idea. I just put my Peak, Renzetti, and Mongoose vises in a box and bought a new HMH since I felt like you did about the arm on the rotation vises. Some of the straight arm vises like the new HMH and the old Anvil I never should have sold give you both the straight shaft I like plus the option to drop it down and use it to rotate on fly axis if you want. I don't rotation tie but like to use that feature on certain flies to look at both sides or tie on bottom.

 

I'd love to try one of yours to see how it works. Maybe take a list on board on who'd buy one from you and since the company you dealt with has 3D patterning setup maybe get a decent price on a dozen or so and make enough to pay for you own. I'm in if it's reasonable.

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It is interesting and nice. I've been tying on a Peak for many years now. I tie a lot of big streamers and whatnot. Since I don't do anything with the materials which stretch back from the hook bend after I've measured them and tied them in, I haven't had a major issue with "access at the back of the hook". I can understand if it is a mental thing where a tier does not want materials touching anything after being tied in. I read over and over where people have such a problem with access to the "back" of the hook on rotary vises. I tend to use the brass block to rest my hand on when tying in materials.

 

What are you all doing back there, beyond the hook bend?

 

Also, I use rotary all the time to wind on body materials, hackle and ribbing, as well as turning the fly to have a look at different angles. That is a massive hunk of steel hanging off-axis. How does it feel while rotating the vise quickly?

 

I'm not bashing your creation, just asking.

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I have no intension of patenting anything. If I did, I certainly would not have posted it here. No intension of selling anything either. I'd rather be fishing at this stage in my life. Feel free to take the idea and run with it if you want. It's not really my idea anyway. I got the basic idea from the J vise. I didn't want to deal with a company in South Africa or pay what they wanted, so I came up with my own solution.

 

I sent my pictures to Peak. Maybe they will make some changes, but I'm not holding my breath. People have been buying the current design for years! so it may not be a big issue to the vast majority. Probably not worth the the tooling and marketing costs to implement. All I know is that it's more ergonomic and accessible for me.

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When I tied on the old Thompson, I remember how my left hand was positioned and when I went to the Traveler, I remember how the left hand was 'now' different - in how it was positioned. I think my left hand is rotated a bit clockwise compared to how it was on the Thompson.

 

Just to me, it feels like a more comfortable position when there was 'room' for the hand as was/is provided by the Thompson.

 

I really like the Traveler, but I've always wondered why some rotary manufacturer had not done this sort of modification before? No demand or no money in it I suppose.

 

Still I really like the idea and glad you shared it heavynets!

 

J - you have a good question on wondering how it 'spins' though! You'd think with more mass spinning it may be a bit more 'clunky' (for a technical term lol). But the trade-off is the 'feel' vs. how clunky it spins.

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Even if the stainless is too heavy to spin well then the part could be made from aluminum. If a simple aluminum alloy is to strong enough (which I doubt) an aluminum/zinc allow should to the job. The aluminum/zinc allow is heavier than one of the normal aluminum alloy however. Just a thought. The aluminum part should also be noticeably cheaper as well. Easier to machine as well as the metal base price.

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I would think aluminum would be plenty strong for that part. Probably can't "3D print" aluminum YET. Honestly I didn't know it was being done with metals. I thought it was still plastics.

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That IS the crux of it isn't it - as I thought too that all that was capable was sterolithography (laser curing a polymer) sort of prototyping. But, we learned something new - some metals are possible. Makes for interesting possibilities as heavynets has discovered.

 

I just wish AutoDesk 123D would be WIN8.1 capable. My limited look into it seems to have uncovered that it isn't quite able to work with 8.1 - just WIN 7 for now.

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The weight of the arm is not an issue when using the rotary function.

 

Aluminum can be 3-D printed.

 

The ability of any arm to be strong enough is a function of the material's strength, quantity and shape. The original Peak arm is aluminum. I made a prototype with ABS plastic that was strong enough for most tying, but marginal for deer hair or if dropped. My SS one is beyond bulletproof.

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I'll have to do some research. I don't understand how a "3D Printer" can handle the temperatures needed to deposit metals in that fashion.

 

But then again, I don't understand MOST things. Just ask my wife.

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OK, It's sintered metal. makes sense now. The part is "printed" then taken to a furnace/kiln to be fired.

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