Can't cast the distance with a #16 dry fly

[vicrider 0]

What about changing the line weight from 5wt to 4wt... less resistance, and I only use it to fish for trout, most of which are pan-sized...

NO NO NO. If anything you should go to a 6wt. and that should be either a weight forward or possibly a Wullf Triangle Taper. If your casts are laying out fairly well and you're not getting a lot of "wind knots" and not tailing loop every other cast than your form seems okay. If those things are happening you first need to correct you style but if that is a newer graphite rod they have been continuously making them faster and faster but listing line weights that really only work for good casters using a lot of line. For you the first thing to do is put at least on size heavier on the rod and a front loaded line if you can get one. The standard WF line and DT lines are pretty much identical for the first 30' but some are more front loaded these days.

 

If you have a friend you fish see if he has a reel with a 6 weight line to give a try. Sometimes something as simple as a line change can turn a rod you can't bond with into your new favorite. This is especially true now with graphite rods, half weight heavier lines, textured lines, species specific lines, blah blah blah. Go up a line size and see if that doesn't turn things around.

[vicrider 0]

And utyer posted while I was typing and I'd definitely listen to him. Oh wait, he's saying the same thing. Okay. And I have seen rods that 2 line weights brought to life but go a 6 first before going into a 7.

[SpokaneDude 0]

Thank you all... I see what's going on (besides my poor casting)... I didn't realize the head was that long, and between that and my lack of competency in actual casting, I'm surprised the fly got as far as it did...

 

Since I'm retired, I have a lot of time to practice my casting, which will start tomorrow.

 

Thanks again to all of you, I really appreciate the help and in particular, this forum, for people like me who need experts help without spending lots of money that most of us "fixed income" retirees don't have.

[josephcsylvia 0]

Look at your fly line and mark where the head (fat section) tapers to the skinny running line. This needs to be outside your rod to load the rod properly and you are already gaining distance lol

[Poopdeck 0]

I'm chomping at the bit to be on a fixed income. Luckily you won't have to spend a dime. Practice is all you need.

[SilverCreek 0]

I have a Scott A4 5wt rod with a SA 5wt line, 55" Cutthroat leader and 4x tippet. When I try to cast a very light fly (#16 dry) it doesn't go very far, maybe 15-20 feet. Is my rod setup too large for small flies? Should I be using a 4wt rod with a 3wt line?

 

I must admit I'm not the best caster (returning after a 12 year hiatus from fly fishing), but my fishing buddy was having the same problem. BTW, there was no wind to speak of...

 

Thanks... SD

 

I've read the replies and there are a lot of suggestions. I like to start with questions so although you say the cast doesn't go but 15-20 feet you never actually say how much fly line and leader is out of the tip top guide. That actually determines how much line there is to load the rod. Casting a fly 20 feet with the leader and line extended is a lot different than casting 30 feet of line and 7 feet of leader only 20 feet.

 

Secondly you say the Cutthroat furled leader is 55" but you never say how long the tippet is.

 

So lets begin by telling us how much line and tippet you have and what happens when you try to cast it. Are you able to straighten out the line but not the leader? Does the whole cast collapse? Can you straighten out a shorter cast?

 

Also post a video and that will show us what is going wrong.

 

My opinion is that you have mainly a casting problem. While it is true that the fly rod is matched to 30 feet of fly line REGARDLESS of taper, a proficient caster can cast even if the fly rod is so stiff that the fly line mass cannot bend the fly rod. In fact you can fly cast with a broom stick that does not bend, hence has essentially a virtually infinite fly line rating.

 

Simon Gawesworth wrote in Single-Handed Spey Casting (Stackpole Books, 2010):

 

"Many years ago, when I was doing the demonstration circuit of fly-fishing shows in the UK, I had a routine that showed it was possible to cast without any rod flex. I took my old pool cue and whipped a couple of rod rings (one at the tip) and a reel seat on it. During the demos I would cast a WF7 fly line with this cue. I could cast it 50 feet or so, but it took effort to do this as there was no flex in the cue to help. The pool cue was five feet long, so the only way I could generate any line speed to make a cast was to utilize arm and wrist speed and the five-foot length of leverage to basically throw out the fly line. I could throw a very tight loop but had to really work at getting the cast to go any distance.

 

Another part of the demonstration was to put the pool cue down and thread the fly line through a one-inch split ring. I cupped the split ring in my right thumb and index finger and proceeded to cast with only my hand, arm, and wrist. Again, there is no flex or spring power when casting this way, and I had negated the five-foot length of leverage. This shows that it is possible to cast without any flex or leverage length and that the power only came from my arm and wrist speed. However, it could never be called efficient!"

Sexyloops the site devoted entirely to fly casting has this: http://www.sexyloops.com/flycasting/tbasic1.shtml

 

"for it is possible to cast with rods which don't bend (broomsticks, short pieces of timber and one or two brands of flyrods)"

 

Pg 23 in the Orvis book referenced below states:

 

"You can cast a fly line with a broomstick, but that’s hard work and not very pretty." See pg 23 in the Orvis book referenced below

 

Therefore, I suspect that going up a fly line weight or two will allow you to better feel the rod bend but it will NOT make you a better caster if your basic cast is faulty.

 

So do a video if possible and/or tell us exactly what is happening. My guess based on my experience with beginners is that you have a windshield wiper casting or igloo casting motion (see pg 16 in the Orvis book below) with a poor stop.

 

My post below on another BB has some suggestions for beginner fly casters. Learn the Basic Foundation Cast as I describe in the post below:

 

http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/fly-cast/365144-new-fly-fishing-need-casing-advice.html#post772097

 

Read the sections on fly casting in the book below and see if that helps you.

 

Orvis Ultimate Book of Fly Fishing

 

[flytire 0]

casting lessons

[Poopdeck 0]

So let's summarize. Go get a new rod and reel, over line it, pick up a 72" cutthroat leader, a 10' tapered leader, and a box of size 2 flys. Then take your old outfit out for casting lessons.

[Dave G. 0]

SpokaneDude was going to practice today, I'm curious how he made out ?

[SpokaneDude 0]

It rained today... no casting... will try tomorrow...

[SpokaneDude 0]

SilverCreek: thank you... will start on Ch 1 immediately... precisely what I needed...

[Carl Z 0]

Also, find a local fly fishing club or casting instructor. Sometimes some fly shops run quick clinics.

[Bimini15 0]

SD, any updates?

[SpokaneDude 0]

Bimini15: yes, it's a pilot error on my part... among other things, I drop the rod on the forward cast. So, once the weather clears, I'm gonna get the book out and practice for next season (too old to fish in the cold and rain).

 

Thanks again everybody!

[Bimini15 0]

Keep at it and don't get discouraged. We have all been there and most of us still can improve, a LOT!