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Fly Tying


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About rscconrad

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  1. Find an old cedar chest. I store all my feathers and furs in one. Stood it up and put coasters under it to make it more like a cabinet
  2. Yes, very. interesting. Thanks for sharing.
  3. I’ve used Uv resin for 3d printers. It works fine. I did it mostly out of curiosity but talk about a large volume for low dollars. Mostly I use loon.
  4. How about rod weights, lines and tippets? Does it nail it there?
  5. I have used the doll hair from there for brushes. Works great.
  6. UV glue works great but lots of people including myself get an allergic reaction. It’s hardly nontoxic. I can’t resist using it though. Usually I give myself problems when I grab the fly before it is fully cured
  7. Xpatier has it 90 percent correct. Most spools work fine. In the minority of spools that don’t work most are to tight. A quarter inch drilll bit solves that simply. The rest of the ones that don’t work are too big. For those rare spools, I use a round print instead of the flat one that come with it. this is really getting into the weeds though. I have a hundred or so spools, I have used the drill bit say 10 times and the new o ring only twice.
  8. So for flash there are lots of biodegradable plastics. Almost all flash we use is mylar or a Mylar knockoff. Some one just needs. Figure out what biodegradable plastic to replace Mylar with. Prior to mylar it was other metals. Think the classic gold on one side silver on the other side tinsel
  9. That is cool. Thanks for sharing
  10. I have one. Took a while to get use to. Now I wish I had 5. Love it
  11. That is a beautifully job tying. Nicely done
  12. Think about this. Chicken feathers are more expensive than jungle cock. That’s crazy
  13. I used it at work long before I used it for tying flies. I’m not that smart. If I was I wouldn’t be working. I first used it in like 2008 from a firm in Iowa. It was ment for “potting” electronic boards. For the heck of it I pulled it out of a cabinet to see if it was still good. It set up fine. I did not use it for years until again I needed a 3d resin printer at work. I took home the table end of the bottle I told you about. It also worked fine. It also takes dyes so but one bottle and make it any color you want. Hobbiest have been doing this forever when they use it to cast parts (think dungeons and dragons). I actually have a thick, thin, and flow from loon. I like them because of the bottle and applicator. No complaints, use them all the time. That being said those applicator bottles you can also buy. Leur lock applicator bottles. Green tip blunt tip glue dispensing needles. Totally standardized by color of the tips. Buy 500 mls of clear. Make a bunch of colors with dyes or powder “lakes”. Store them in the bottles you buy. For the most part they are clear bottles, spray paint them black. I did it for the fun of it but man I overpaid for the loon thin. The 3d stuff comes in not too many viscosities but they tell you the viscosity up front, unlike our normal suppliers. Maybe someone smarter than me can figure out what to increase or decrease the viscosity with
  14. You using a 3d resin printer light. I do also. It works great. Now take the next step and buy some clear up resin. It will blow your mind how much you get for how cheap. It is like medium viscosity, similar to the loon thin I use. For the clear printer resin, I use Dr.3D clear. Mine was a 500 g bottle. They sell it as photopolymer resin. I am sure lots of people will pop up saying why it won’t work, but it works great. I have not tried the color stuff yet but the clear looks the same, smells the same, and sets up the same. I am sure there are differences but they don’t matter to my flies. good luck
  15. Who would have know. Seems like those guys across the pond know a thing or two
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