Applying dubbing

[Bluesy 0]

What is the easiest way to apply dubbing and still achieve a slim but distressed look for tying say hares ears/bob's bits /hoppers etc do you suggest waxing the thread or is their cheaper easier alternatives. is there anybody here from scotland?

[Guest]

I don't use wax or waxed thread for dubbing. I spin it on the thread or make a dubbing loop.

 

Peaty Mann is from Scotland.

[Steeldrifter 0]

I like to put a small amount of wax on the thread.

 

Just a tip on slim/loose look on dubbing. Spinning the dubbing cloclwise on the thread will give a slimmer rope of dubbing, while spinning it counter clockwise will give it a more open loose rope of dubbing.

[day5 0]

I do not use wax with most dubbing that is synthetic but I like to make my own dubbing with bits and peices of feathers and hair and sparkly things then I may use wax if needed. Sometimes if my dubbing is to thick depending on the dubbing you can wrap thred over it to slim it down/pull it tight.

[CrustySpinnr 0]

I use a little bit of wax on the thread. However when tying dries I sometimes use my liquid floatant. Just enough to get the thread damp to hold the dubbing. I use Gink and just a small amount seems to work ok. I don't know if it actually makes them float better but I would like to think so!

[Mato Kuwapi 0]

QUOTE (Bluesy @ Jun 28 2005, 02:20 PM)

What is the easiest way to apply dubbing and still achieve a slim but distressed look for tying say hares ears/bob's bits /hoppers etc do you suggest waxing the thread or is their cheaper easier alternatives. is there anybody here from scotland?

I don't use wax either...but I think the thread I pick up around here is pre waxed. (Uni and Danville)

 

Are you looking for someone LIVING in Scotland or were you just looking for a Scotsman. For those Scotsman out there looking for cheaper alternative to wax...Those wax Toilet seals will give you enough fly tying wax to supply you for life and all of your buddies. Pick one up....repack it in empty Mustad hook boxes and sell it for ten times the price.

 

I know a few Scotsmen.

[Bluesy 0]

Thanks for the reply's

Mato are you saying plumbers seal is as good as commercial wax + i was just wondering if there was any scots fisherman about(4 a blether aboot the fishin)

[Dragon 0]

Hi there,

I am new here to this forum, and thought I would reply to your delema first. The wax or no wax question was one that I looked into early into my tying. So here is my recomendation:

Start with natural dubbings. They tend to be softer and much easier to work with. After you are comfortable with these you can switch over to coarser or synthetic materials. That was what I did, and I found that I do not need wax to dub. And remember no insect is perfect or identicle, so don't worry if you botch a few. You'd be amazed what the fish might chose. :dunno:

[Gregg A 0]

Check out the instructional videos on this sit, I'm not sure exactly where they are, there is a good one on dubbing that may help you. After a while you will develope your own style and technique that comes with practice. For myself, I always use wax and only natural materials. Thats just the way I learned, and the way I like to do it. Probably doesnt make any difference to the fish though.

[Joe Hard 0]

You could use those glue sticks, head cement, soft body or anything that will make the thread tacky. I suggest you try using real small, sparse clumps of dubbing and stretch it out along the thread as you dub it. Make sure your thread is tight, and when the doobing noodle is wraped on the shank pluck it out with a bodkin or simmilar, wrap a rib and then pluck it out again. It doesnt take much dubbing to make a great fly, regardless of the dubbing material.

[Crotalus 0]

I use a small amount of wax on my fingers when dubbing. For dries I dub onto a single thread strand, for wets i generally use a dubbing loop.

[Rustyspinner 0]

If you have pre-waxed thread, you really shouldn't any extra wax on the thread. I personally only use extra wax when I am dubbing a synthetic that just wont dub naturally, then a "little" more wax will help.

 

To achieve that "buggy" look with a taper, dub the tightest tapered body you can, which will depend on the type of dubbing you are using, then use a bodkin or the hook side of a velcro strip and pick out strands to make it as buggy as you wish. This will achieve that buggy look, but will also have nice tapered body underneath.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Rusty

[Catalpa_Joe 0]

I've always been intimidated by the dubbing process. But after seeing some videos I'm gonna try it. Haven't made uglies in a long time.

[mgj 0]

hmmm...

 

start with 1/4 the amount of dubbing you think you need. no wax necessary. tease a tiny bit from between yer fingers and twist it tightly and sparsely about the thread. yer really just painting the thread a different color. wrap andcontinue adding material until you've got a body of the desired taper and length. it's allright to go back over a previously dubbed area, but take care to make the taper neat.

 

this is mostly for dry flies, but nymphs are similar (unless you use a loop) though you could use a little more material. nothing'll fuck up a fly like too much dubbing, maybe sloppy ribbing'll do it...

 

prewaxed thread is not waxed for dubbing, it's waxed to keep the thread strands tightly bound together.

 

dubbing is easy and fun if you learn how.

 

key point to remember...less is more.

[British mike 0]

I dont use wax either but often will use the Davy Wotton technique of splitting the tying thread with a dubbing needle and inserting your dubbing, well teased out into the thread, then spin the bobbin and there you have it, you can apply as little or as much dubbing as you wish to achieve your required body and no hassle with dubbing by hand or sticky wax.

Mike.....