Fly Tying Tips and Tricks

[flytire 0]

I am creating this thread in order to keep all fly tying tip & tricks in one location without having to create individual threads for each posting or having posters hijacking threads

please use this thread to post your fly tying related tips and tricks

thank you

[flytire 0]

[RickZieger 0]

When putting small bead chain or barbell eyes on a fly, hold one side of the barbell and make one wrap of thread around it and then pull down on the hook where you want it to be on the hook.  Rick 

[flytire 0]

[Sandan 0]

I keep all my materials and tools in their places as I'm tying. For example. I lay out what I need before I start actually tying. Tools are to the left of my vise. Materials are to the right. Consider the vise base as a clock. Tools at 8-9. Materials at 2-4. trash at 5,30-6. Thread not in a bobbin at 12, centerfield. Spare bobbins w/ thread 2,30 in short right field. Same places all the time. After a while muscle memory kicks and you won't have to look allover your bench for what you need. When I'm done everything goes back into it proper storage space. The bench is clean for the next tying session

[Gene L 0]

Tip for dubbing wax.....Overton's Wonder Wax, glue a small bit of Velcro to the to the top of the container and an opposite bit to the bench. Turn the wax upside down and attach the container to the Velcro on the bench.  You can then use the wax more easily, and recap the container.  You don't need to screw the container after using it.  

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

I use a lot of thin super glue tying for the salt (my preference is Krazy Glue in the original small tube...).  I've learned to be very careful not to use very much of it since it will soak up into nearby materials and ruin them... What I do is simply squeeze the tube before placing it near the fly to produce a small bead of glue that I can control - before placing the tip of the tube to the spot where the glue is needed.  Works very well and speeds my production when tying in bulk.  I also use that same Krazy glue to seal up thread on heads instead of using any kind of "head cement", using the tip of the glue tube like a paint brush to apply it evenly.  Here's a  pic of what I'm talking about... 

[Gene L 0]

Here's a tip for shaving down a leader to thread it into your fly line, making a "Krazy Glue" joint without a knot.  Take the leader in your weak hand with about 7 or 8 inches free, hanging down.  Next, take a double edged razor blade and touch it to the leader; the razor blade will bit into the leader.  Then, all you have to do is shave the leader with an even motion. It will get thinner toward the end of the leader.  It will be thin enough to thread in a needle, which can then be threaded into the fly line.  You add the CA to the leader, which helps with lubrication and makes things easier.  I don't know that it's stronger than a nail knot, but it's strong enough.  

[flytire 0]

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

In all or most of the tying videos I've watched... I see tyers adding materials - then trimming the parts not needed for the pattern away from the hook afterwards... Tying production style the way I was taught you always trim the material precisely - before tying it in place, and rarely ever use your scissors to trim away anything during the tying sequence - saving time and motion while also generating a very precisely tied fly - time after time.  Add a "master pattern" on the bench with you while tying greatly speeds tying - and also allows you to generate that same pattern over and over again - with the same proportions, colors, etc.

This was something I learned to do on my own years ago.  Every time I filled an order I'd tie one or two extras - then line up all of the run and be as picky as possible about the best of the bunch in every respect, colors, proportions, density, etc.  That saved fly would become a "master", set aside, sleeved, and always available for the next time I received an order for that specific pattern... Any additional over the order went in my box to be fished.   Over time some patterns evolved into a bit different fly than the original.  When that occurred it would be time for another master to replace the one in hand.  To this day I still have master patterns I set aside more than 35 years ago... In many case the customer or shop that placed the order isn't even around still - but those masters make a great starting point for developing something new as well as being able to re-generate a specific order... 

 

I always got a great response from any guide or shop when, even years later, I could still produce that same exact pattern to fill their order... 

[flytire 0]

[RickZieger 0]

When tying many flies I use yarn that has been split to make fly bodies rather than dubbing.

Most yarn has three or four strands. 

 

Rick 

[flytire 0]

[DarrellP 0]

If you don't want to wrap the rib opposite the Chenille or dubbing, you can also wrap the ribs further apart than the Chenille or dubbing wraps and go in the same direction.  Not as easy or reliable in my experience. 

Whe tying popper you can put a small amount of superglue on the thread and wrap it tight and close to the popper and hold it tight for a second or two and it will hold without tying off.

On Wolly bugger type flies with palmer hackle, wrapping the hackle in the groove between the Chenille wraps will hide the stem of the feather and add some durability. 

Use the hook shank to measure proportions, just keep in mind this can vary from hook type to hook type.

For subsurface flies: the faster the current is, the stiffer the materials have to be in order to hold their shape.  That is why a lot of Western flies use more bucktail than feathers for wings and more rooster than hen for hackle.

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