brianbailey1000 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2013 Anyone else get frustrated tying these tails on? They are very hard to handle and see, I end up putting one on, then the next instead of both crossed at the same time. I also keep a butt end of thread hanging so I can "split" the tails forward but they never seem to lay right, much less angle up. I have used sparkle organza as an alternative to tailing which is much easier to use, but I still would prefer fibbet's cause they look bad ass! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2013 To lift the tail are you taking your working thread under the tail and pulling into the base wraps before coming back over the top again? This helps lift them. Check out some of the tailed patterns Hans Weilenmann has posted vids on here and shows this clearly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riffleriversteelheadslayer 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2013 making a small ball of thread before tying them in on the hook shank makes them lift and split Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2013 The dubbing ball method described earlier is the one I use most often. It makes a fan tail which I think gives more support than a split tail. If you do want to split the tail, Al Beatie has described a method. After you have put the thread on the hook, and cut off the thread end, put it aside. Tie an even number of micro fibbets on the hook, and do a crude split of the fibers. Then take the short piece of cut thread, and make a "U" with it around the bottom of hook bend and slide the U so the thread separates the fibers to each side of the hook. Then tie the thread ends down over the top of the hook. Another method is to take one thread wrap between the tail and hook on the far side ( as you go down higher to lower) and then back over the hook. Take the next wrap between the near side of the hook and tailing material (as you come up lower to higher) and then back over the hook. A third method is the Hockley Tailing Method. Bud Hockley of Baltimore Maryland devised a method of tying spit or fan tails which is both elegant and simple . This method was described in the 1985 September issue (vol 16, issue 6) of Fly Fisherman Magazine, pg 36 by none other than John Betts, the originator of microfibbets. 1. Tie an even number of Betts microfibbets or stiff hackle fibers in the usual manner and overwrap them with thread back to just before the start of the bend of the hook. Give yourself the room for two more wraps of thread before the bend starts. 2. Take a smooth dubbing needle and place it across the hook between the tails and the hook. Slide the needle toward the eye of the hook so that it lifts the tails off the hook. Now wrap two turns of thread around the dubbing needle and the hook as if you were going to tie the needle to the hook. This will slide the two turns of thread under the tail fibers. Gently pull the needle out as you tighten the thread, and guide the thread so that they lie around the hook, but under the tail fibers, and just in back of the thread wraps which tie the tail down. 3. Now take the dubbing needle and place it along side of the hook closest to you with the tip of the needle toward the eye of the hook. There should be a little space between the hook and needle to maneuver the needle. Now take the thread around the needle, and between the hook and the tails, as if you were going to tie the needle to the back of the hook. As you tighten the thread, gently remove the needle and guide the thread so that it comes to lie on top of the two wraps you place in step two. This wrap will further splay the tails from the back of the hook 4. Keep repeating step three to place multiple wraps of thread just at the base of the tails, between the tails and the hook, until the tails begin to fan and split. When you have built up the thread ball, use your fingers to even up and split the tails and elevate them if you want. 5. Now take the thread and take a couple of cross wraps around the tail to hold them in the final position. There you have it. The Hockley method of split or fan tailing a fly without using a dubbing ball. BTW, Hockley uses it for stonefly nymphs as well as dry flies. For a final fly tying tip, I have a cheap source for real micro fibetts. Micro fibetts are the bristles from artist brushes. That is their original source. Like many materials in fly tying, micro fibetts have been adapted from another purpose. Wait for sale coupon for a Michaels or Joanne craft store. Both carry artist brushes that are about $5 for the beginner's brushes. With the 40 - 50% off coupon you can get then for $3 or less. Get the widest flat top brush and cut of the wooden handle. You will get micro fibetts whose tips are aligned and ready for tying in. Just cut out the number you need. The bristles can by colored with markers but I think the tan works fine for most flies. The parachute adams has the paint brush fibetts for tail fibers, and you can see that at the the left base of the brush I have begun to cut off the fibers. The dark tips of the fibetts really is not noticeable on the fly. Essential Artist Brushes BTW, here is an earlier post I found on a search about the same subject. http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=69968 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tctrout 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2013 Great comments on this topic; I actually have a YouTube video explaining a few techniques used when tying with microfibetts for tailing fibers. The video can be found here: Hope this helps! Tim http://www.youtube.com/tctrout Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2013 Many years ago I was shown the second technique, using thread or floss to split the tails, by Marc Petitjean. That's the way I've always done it since. I find it quicker and cleaner than the dubbing ball method. Though I usually use Coq de Leon rather than microfiberts. One thing I have done, that adds to the fly, is to use fluorescent yellow or green floss to split spinner tails. The result is that you get an imitation of the egg sack under the hook shank. There have been days when this has resulted in many more fish. The first day I used flies like this it I took a friend on the river. He was something of a beginner, so to compare the number of takes is more reasonable than fish caught. Even looking at that I had an advantage over him. We came on fish rising to a spinner fall. I caught one, and Graham asked what I had it on. I explained a spinner. He said he didn't have any. In my pocket was a 35mm film canister with a dozen spinners with the egg sack imitation. I hadn't put them in my fly box, and was using an old pattern from my box. I handed him the canister. He covered fish and was getting strikes at at least 4 or 5 to one over me. The patterns being identical except for the egg sack. Of course Graham wasn't going to give me one of those patterns back. A fair amount of leg pulling and an offer to sell me my flies back followed. When he relented and let me have one back, my rate of takes increased to the same as his. If you are using the thread method it is hardly any extra work to use a bright piece to do it. I've certainly found it worth the effort. Cheers, C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2013 Excellent suggestion craig, and one worth doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kentuckytroutbum 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2013 Another option is to get a used 1 1/2" wide trim paint brush, and use the bristles to construct the tails. Their length make them easier to tie on, and then trim to length when you're finished. I have brushes with cream, brown, and black bristles. Used brushes don't seem to be as stiff as the new ones. Like Craig, I use the tag end of the initial thread wrap to split the tails. Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowmike 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2013 making a small ball of thread before tying them in on the hook shank makes them lift and split What he said Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick2011 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2013 I LIKE THE FIBBETS, THEY ARE DURABLE ENOUGH TO JUST TIE ONTOP THEN PULL TO THE SIDES TO SPLEY THEY DONT REALLY NEED MUCH TO KEEP THEM UP OR APART IN MY EXPERIENCE..BUT THEY ARE SMALL TO WORK WITH I JUST TIE IN ONTOP OF HOOK AND POSITOIN AFTER SECURE. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick2011 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2013 Great comments on this topic; I actually have a YouTube video explaining a few techniques used when tying with microfibetts for tailing fibers. The video can be found here: Hope this helps! Tim http://www.youtube.com/tctrout VIDEO WELL DONE, SOME HANDY TECHNIQUES.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianbailey1000 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2013 Lot's of great suggestions! Thanks everyone. I'm curious if most of you use several fibbets or just 2 or 3? I'm usually splitting two fibers, but I really like the idea (like above video) of using several, I think it's much easier to see and handle this way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tctrout 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2013 Thanks, Nick2011; I appreciate the comment! Tim http://www.youtube.com/tctrout Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheUsualSuspect 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2013 Wow, and I "thought" I knew the easy way. Thanks a lot for all the posts. Some really good stuff in here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SSC 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2013 Thanks, learned a couple of tricks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites