Jump to content
Fly Tying
Brodrash

Skagit Casting and a Paddleboard

Recommended Posts

Im wondering if it would be effective to Skagit cast with an 8wt spey rod off of a paddleboard. Im thinking of getting a spey rod, as it would be perfect for one of my larger local reservoirs, but I would be casting off a paddleboard and im not sure if that would throw me off balance.

 

So do you guys think is it plausible enough to consider or am I wasting my thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watching people on YouTube ... spey casting looks like it requires a solid foundation. I don't know if it would mess with your balance so much as cause some side movement on the board as you do a "D-loop" or "Snap-T" or whatever fancy cast you choose.

That said, anything is possible. You might actually like it and you probably won't even notice the "problems".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check out the paddle board videos on NorthFork Outdoors. All paddleboards are not built equal, but Dave Scadden and company don't seem to have much difficulty fly casting with normal rods. Spey might be asking a bit much, but then, why are you wanting to spey cast? On a paddleboard, your back cast shouldn't present a problem....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im wondering if it would be effective to Skagit cast with an 8wt spey rod off of a paddleboard. Im thinking of getting a spey rod, as it would be perfect for one of my larger local reservoirs, but I would be casting off a paddleboard and im not sure if that would throw me off balance.

 

So do you guys think is it plausible enough to consider or am I wasting my thoughts?

it might work, but the whole point of Skagit casting is that you can do it with no back cast room. If you're out in the water I feel like you have all the back casting room you'd need. Also, the board it self might get in the way of your cast(not sure), as you have a lot of line on the water during these types of casts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, I see that although it's possible it is unnecessary so instead of a spey rod, my next rod (don't tell my wife) will probably be an 8wt switch rod, because there are many lakes and rivers that I fish and don't have a lot of back cast room and two handed casting would be ideal, but there is also many bodies of water where I have plenty of room.

 

Utah DWR has started stocking and regulating quite a few waters with kokanee salmon. They would be a blast fishing for with a two hander I think!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, am I mistaken that it takes less effort to two hand cast farther than a one handed cast, once you develop the technique?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, am I mistaken that it takes less effort to two hand cast farther than a one handed cast, once you develop the technique?

Well yes, in a manner of speaking.

The 'work' is divided in two plus the biggest gain IMHO is from the switch

rod length's (~11' versus the typical 9'). I find it's not much effort at all to cast

out a medium sized fly about 60-80', compared to DH-ing all day long.

 

Things to ponder:

Wind & using a trailing rope (life-line)

Water temps

Keeping your kit on the paddleboard

 

Not sure what part of the country you're in, but sustained winds and cold

water don't seem conducive to paddleboard use throughout a fishing season.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Based on videos (Again, I have no direct knowledge of this), Spey casting allows for getting a lot of line out with little or no back cast space ... true. It also allows for much farther distances with less effort than regular fly casting. Watching some of the casters, they're putting 100 feet of line out or more.

 

Negative?? There's no picking up and casting the whole line, as I understand it. If you DO cast to a target 100' away, you still have to bring all the running line back in before you can cast the casting line out again. I might be wrong about that aspect of it, but it's one of the reasons I've not tried it. There's a lot of unproductive water between me and the target that I have to strip through to get to the casting head again.

 

I also have many more assumptions and questions about it.

On the swift moving rivers, this extra distance results in huge areas of water covered as the swing is in progress. On still water, it just means you can cast to a tailing fish, or a school or a sight fishing target from farther away. Less chance of spooking the fish with your presence.

Negative?? The larger head section of a Spey set-up will make more of a splash when it hits the water. Is the benefit of casting from farther away offset by the commotion of landing line? Only those who try it will know.

 

I understand your desire to try the system, Brodrash, but I don't know if (as others have stated) it will be "better" for paddleboard fishing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jack, I am right on the Nevada, Utah, Arizona border it gets quite hot lol. So the paddleboard would be used April through October on water close to home. The water temperature is no problem as it ranges from 55ish to the upper 80's in the water I would be fishing.

 

I do fish waters at a lot higher elevation, with a lot lower water temps but I know better than to paddle board out there though lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you got it Mike, I mostly just want to try the two-handing style. I think the splash effect wont be to damning to my success, at least as fishing for LM Bass go. Especially because I'll be fishing as deep as possible.

 

My main Purpose in asking is just to make sure a two hander won't have to narrow of an application to justify me purchasing it. I made a mistake by including the paddleboard in the question I think. lol

 

I think it would be great for some overgrown rivers I fish for pike but don't have room for a good back cast. It would also be great for the kokanee that are located a little more north of me.

 

Would an 8wt be to heavy for the average trout?

 

I have a lot to think about! lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 5-6 wt switch rod that I frequently underhand / spey cast while standing in a canoe. It is no more of a problem than when single hand casting.

 

Just because you are in a boat or paddle board does not mean that you always have room to back cast. Learning "spey casting" technics is an advantage to ALL fly casters, even if you don't have a two-handed rod..

 

Mike's objection is nonsense to me. (sorry Mike) It's true that the running line must be retrieved before another cast can be made, but is that all that different than a standard weight forward line. I find it impossible to lift any fly line off the water once more that about 50 or 60 feet of line is out. Also, you don't have to make 100' casts with a switch rod, I frequently make 30' cast too. Just this week I was fishing Monroe Reservoir for wipers. I waded out as far as I could go and started casting as far as I could in all directions. The wipers could be anywhere so I wanted to cover as much area as I could. The switch rod allowed me to cover ( I haven't done the math) probably 30% more area than a conventional rod. Once I located some fish, I obviously shortened the cast to that distance or moved closer to shorten the distance. No different than you would do with any rod while wading or in a boat.

 

As for splash, the heavier, thicker line does make a bit more of a splash. For its effect on the fish, I guess it depends on how spooky they are. I've never noticed a fish that jumps or splashes scaring away the other fish, so why would the line? It certainly was not a problem with wipers, I caught several, along with yellow bass and crappie. With carp or trout in clear water it may be a problem. A longer leader may be in order then. And of course you never want to "line" and fish no matter what kind of rod you are using.

 

Kokanee are land-locked sockeye salmon that feed on zooplankton. You will have a tough time catching them with any rod or any fly. Not impossible, but very tough.

 

The weight of the rod, to me, is usually more of a function of the size and weight of the fly or rig being used and the wind being encountered rather than the species being sought. For most application I would think that an 8 wt is too big for trout. It would be good for steelhead, salmon, pike, red fish and such. For trout and bass a 5 wt will usually do. I plan on going after steelhead with my 5-6 wt soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kokanee are land-locked sockeye salmon that feed on zooplankton. You will have a tough time catching them with any rod or any fly. Not impossible, but very tough.

Not nearly as hard as you would think. Have caught plenty of kokanee on a fly rod, on nymphs as well as dries. Just a matter of how deep they are and the type of forage. You would need a particularly light switch/spey rod, however, for it to be much fun.

 

While I have a few switch rods myself, I really think the OP needs to rethink his "need" for a new rod. What is so often overlooked is the amount of time it takes to develop your cast when you switch to two-handed techniques. This is not a casual commitment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 10 ft 8wt Steve built for me on an anglers roost blank it's been great throws a shooting head very well. I also built a 9'10 4wt on an anglers roost blank that casts very well and roll cats like a champ even on still water.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You talk about an 8 wt switch rod. Since most spey casting calls for a head 2 wts. heavier than rod is listed at that puts you into 10 wt. territory. From the fishing you're describing I'd think a switch rod from 4-6 wt. would serve you well. I wish I could tell you how it's working but I haven't got out yet to try but on recommendations on the spey site I bought a 12' 5 wt. and outfitted it with a RIO Ambush 7wt. line which is basically a wt. forward line developed for skagit casting with a very short head length. Went to that while trying to learn since it eliminates all the complications of changing heads and leaders and running lines and puts it all together in one line you just add your leader and tippet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...