utyer

I live in Orlando, and usually fish the Indian River or Mosquito Lagoons. Unfortunately, they have gotten so dirty there is no site fishing. I switched to walking the dikes around the Indian River Lagoon and catch Small (ok baby,) tarpon, Snook, Redfish, Sea Trout, and Lady fish all over. The water in the retention ponds is cleaner than the lagoons. Surf fishing with a fly rod is also a productive way to fish. For fresh water, follow Mike's advice, there are many lakes and ponds that have bass and pan fish. Not many (but some,) can be accessed from shore or better still a kayak. There is a Shad spawning run on the St Johns River every year. It begins in LATE November, and extends through February into March. The St Johns has some walk in access, but its a 2 mile plus walk in. On the Econlockhatchee ( a tributary to the St Johns, there is easier walk in access. Fly fishing for Shad is good on both rivers south of Lake Harney and Rout 46. PM me and I can provide further details. I grew up across the Sound in central Long Island. Left there in 57 for Utah.

I don't always do flies in carry on, but I have and haven't had any problems.

In south Orlando, it never got below 32 last night. Coldest its been since I moved down here. Last time I saw snow was in Idaho last May.

I have been flying at least once for the last 25 years. A 4 piece rod will fit in the overheads behind most any carry on bags soft or hard. Then my carry on goes in the overhead with reels, and new assortment of flies. Since I go to the same destination every time, I have a full kit at my destination with waders, boots and other gear. Delta and Southwest have never had any complaints with my 2 carry on items. I have had some issues at the Airport security about fly tying vises, forceps, scissors, and pliers. Now I put any tying tools in my checked bag.

The Library can be a great resource.

Glad to hear they are ok.

Good to know. For almost all of my flies, I use white thread, and use markers when I need to at the head. After 25 or 30 years, some of my markers need replacing.

I learned about taking an extra set of clothes the hard way, and more than once. Fortunately, only once did I take a dive in December. 30 years later there is always a complete change in the car. The emergency kit and clothes are in the back of the SUV with the spare. I also learned the hard way about taking my 6 piece rod through the brush. When I got to the river the tip was missing, and I know I crawled through some willows on the way in. Never found the tip. but I did have a spare rod in the car. Sorry Steve, but I build my own rods. I usually pack my Point and Shoot camera in a sealed waterproof container. I tested it in the pool to make sure that it floats and is really water tight before I started using it. When fishing from a kayak or canoe, always strap your rods at both ends, or in a fixed holder. So far I have only lost 3 rods all spinning rods. I had one rod and reel carried off into deep water while wading. It was carried under a tangle of logs and sticks, no way to get in there to find it.

First off, no I have a much smaller box for stream side, but I never have used it. This is for camp. I usually stay a week, on most trips, and I fish with others. Someone is always needing a few flies. Yes it is a cigar box which I got from my brother in law. Next step is to try and build a larger box for use in my home tying area. Since I use the same area for other projects, I need to quickly pack up the tying stuff and convert to doing art work.

I many of my long trips, I like to take a small tying kit: This is my latest kit. It uses a Nor-vise small jaw, mounted on a post. No modifications were necessary. Tools in the lid in front of several bags of feathers. There are feathers and hackle under the shelf behind the yellow foam as well. 16 mini bobbins are loaded in a rolled tube of heavy card stock. Hooks and materials vary with the season. The jaws, post and brass mount are removed and fit down in the box for travel and storage. Box measure about 11 by 9".

Yes I used a white nail polish on the edges, the rest is markers.

Mikechell, here is one image of the "brown one," It is supposed to be a dock spider. Legs are 3 or 4 strands of turkey tail that I coat with head cement before mounting them.

Didn't get many flies done this month, but I did get my Halloween decorations finished.

When I started filling custom fly orders, they were exactly that. They were flies that were not in any catalog or shop. There was NO internet, and all my customers were referred to me, most by other satisfied customers. Some of my "niche" flies were for Pacific Salmon, and other were for local trout anglers. Advertise on your website and offer to fill orders for patterns that they can't get anywhere else. Local favorites, something they got somewhere that they cannot find. I would agree with both flytire and Steve. It's good to see younger anglers making a go at something like tying flies. Your best bet is to show examples and then try and find customers with "special" patterns they want. You can charge a bit more if it can't be found elsewhere.

I don't know what other response you have gotten, but I will certainly get out a few dozen before years end.

In George Grants book Montana Trout Flies, he describes the Rubber Legs as having 3 pairs of rubber legs, the tail and antennae are turkey quill fiber. The Girdle Bug is shown with the tails and 3 pairs of legs all rubber, and no antennae. As Mike said, its movement more than the number. I usually tie all mine with 3 pairs of legs.

Inspired by DFoster's versions of the Red Clock, I tied up a few Spiders of my own.

I have never owned a Universal vise, but I did buy a Leonard back in 71 or 2. Somewhere a long time ago, I lost the stem and clamp. The threads on the back of the jaws just happened to fit a standard camera tripod mount. I can now use it again, and it makes a nice compact travel vise.

A few of you may have misread my first post about the threads I use, and the savings that I get. I save about 75 to 85% by purchasing in bulk, and certainly a LOT more than .20 cents a spool. My average cost per 100 yards is $0.20 including the shipping. Veevus cost 3.25, UCT 2.25, and Danville 1.25 (half a 200 yard spool,) I save $3.05 over Veevus, $2.05 over UTC, and 1.05 over Danville. I consider these brands to be among the best in traditional threads. I have never tried any of the newer Nano Silk or GSP thread that cost about twice as much. I don't use the Skala and Serger threads simply because they are less expensive. The Skala threads have worked well for me for over 10 years. They are multifilament polyester, and will lay flat and also, can be split. The finer sizes like the 360 are too thin for everything but midges, but they tie them fine, and add almost no bulk. Since I load any and all thread onto my Auto-bobbin spools, and can usually load much more than 100 yards on a spool, I save time as well. All these threads I use works for me. so I will continue to use them. I did not in my first post suggest that any one else use them; in fact I did point out that they only come in very large spools which have to be re-spooled in order for use. Since I do that with all threads, getting these bulk spools works for ME, they may not be right for others. While we are talking about savings, here is an even better price on a Nit Picker. I find these work much better than a loop of mono for pulling legs through foam bugs.

McFly, I wouldn't still be using them if they didn't perform well. Since I have to re-spool ALL my thread to fit on my Nor-vise Auto-bobbin, I save time by loading these bulk spools. I can get much more than 100 yards on each spool. I only buy white, and use markers as needed to color the eyes if necessary.. My first bulk spool was some Nymo 3/0 which I have used for over 30 years, and still have more than half of it left. I use that mostly to patch my pool screens when they get holes from the squirrels.

One of the biggest ways we can save money is in Thread. The big cost in thread is the re-spooling onto 100 yard spools. Most thread is made in much bigger lots. I simply cut out the middle man and save money. I have not bought "fly tying" thread in over 12 years. I started using Gutermann Skala and Gutermann Bulky Nylon threads. I recently found a new source, and have just picked up a few more sizes. My cost per 100 yard spool is less than .20, and that includes shipping. The threads I use do have a couple of drawbacks: The Skala only comes on large spools from 5000 to 20,000 meters (that 5468, to 21872 yards.) I re-spool all my thread to fit on my Nor-vise Auto Bobbin spools so there is no added work for me in doing this. I now get these from Wawak.com and their shipping is $5.95 for any size order. I usually buy 2 or 4 spools at a time. I have a list of about 6 other threads I want to try.

With apologies to "Paul Bunyan," my version of his Bunyan Bug. Still working on one made the right way. Thread: Nymo 3/0. Hook: MFC 7027 3xl. Wings: buck-tail. Body 2 strips of craft foam, one under & one on top spiral wrapped with thread.

The foam is wrapped around the hook tied down, and then ribbed with the floss.

Delta wing Stonefly pattern on a MFC 7008 hook Thread: Gutermann Skala 240, Craft foam body black floss rib. Elk hair wing tied as a Bullitt head and split. White bucktail sighter, Eggs are trimmed black deer hair.

Reminds me of upstate NY. Spend 2 weeks every summer camping and fishing on Indian Lake. Each summer we would hike through the woods along a stream. That's where I saw my first brook trout. Then we move to Utah, where the only thing any one fished for was trout.