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mikemac1

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About mikemac1

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/14/1948

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    Brown trout
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    Bozeman, Montana

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  1. Failure and Insanity go hand in hand in angling.
  2. Saltwater Myakka Minnow - SBS I started tying freshwater versions of Steve Gibson’s Myakka Minnow last year in anticipation of a Nov 2020 trip for exotics in Florida. Covid forced that trip instead to the Central Florida Gulf coast where Speckled Trout are my chief quarry. I had only tied a few saltwater versions of the Myakka Minnow but they did result in some nice trout last December. We just finished another trip to my favorite trout haunts where six straight days on the grass flats at the mouth of Tampa Bay produced dozens of trout every day on Myakka Minnows. Despite having all manner of salty flies with me, the Myakkas on #1 or 1/0 hooks were all I needed, and actually very few of them because of their incredible durability. I fish them with a 200 grain sink tip and short 0X fluoro leader. The Myakka Minnows pulled up trout in just about every pothole or channel edge I could get my fly into. The Saltwater Myakka Minnow SBS demonstrates the most effective color/material combo in my mind for specks, but other colors and materials can be used as well. They nailed a lot of ladyfish, a few catfish and reds as well.
  3. Materials List Hook: Umpqua XS410-NI5X #1 or 1/0 Thread: Fine mono Weight: 10-15 turns of .015 lead free wire Tail: Polarflash (other suitable tailing material includes long furs like finn raccoon or arctic fox, bucktail or deceiver style hackle although they are not as durable as Polarflash or Flashabou) Body: Hairline Flat Diamond Braid Back: Polarflash Eyes: 8 or 10mm holographic eyes Weed Guard: 30-40# Hard Mono (optional) Throat: Dyed UV Resin (red or orange) Coated with Thick UV resin (much cheaper generic hard jewelry resin) Create a thread base with fine mono thread. Wrap 10-15 turns of lead free wire mid shank. For the bottom section of the tail select 5-10 full length strands of Polarflash. Fold in half and tie in the hank at the hook been at a point that creates the tail length you want (~1.5-2”). Fold the remaining hank back over the tail, tie in and trim to length. For the top section of the tail, repeat the above process with a darker color of Polarflash but do not trim the upper section of the Polarflash hank. Using the flat diamond braid tie in at the hook bend just over the tail tie in. Wind the mono thread forward to the hook eye and secure with a couple of half hitches. Using a bobbin hanger to keep your bobbin away from the body slowly rotate your vise and wrap the flat braid forward to the hook eye then back and forth to create a minnow shape. The body near the hook eye should be at least twice the diameter of the body at the tail. Secure the braid by taking one wrap behind the braid, pulling the brain back along the side the body and secure with multiple thread wraps. Trim. Create the back by pulling the upper section of tailing Polarflash forward along the top of the body. Secure with a couple of tight wraps at the hook eye then fold the remaining flash back toward the hook bend. Secure with tight wrap around the entire body from the tail to the hook eye. Trim any extra flash beyond the hook bend. Secure the thread at the hook eye with a couple of half hitches. Cement with a small amount of UV resin before trimming the mono thread. Using 8 or 10mm Holographic Stick-on Eyes, place the eyes on each side of the body at the thickest portion of the body behind the hook eye. Use a small amount of UV resin between the top of the eyes to secure. Mix a small amount of red or orange dyed UV resin and coat the space between the eyes on the bottom of the body and cure. [Optional] If a weed guard is desired, add it immediately after creating the throat. Take of 2” piece of 30-40# hard mono and flatten one end ~1/8” with a pilers and bend 45 degrees. Using forceps or pilers, hold the flattened end of the mono along the bottom of the throat. Add a drop of UV resin and cure. Trim the mono to the desired length. Start coating the entire body with small amounts of UV resin and cure. Ensure some resin covers the entire surface of the eyes. Once the entire fly is covered in resin and cured, coat with a thin coating of Sally Hansen nail finish.
  4. Been trout fishing all week with great success. Lots of 19-20” fish among the many dinks. Water temps approaching prime time with crystal clear conditions for spring. Most fish came to hand on small streamers fished on sink tips but early in the morning, topwater action was good. Got a few more days on the water here along the Central Florida Gulf Coast before heading back home. Its been a great Spring Break.
  5. 🤘Arrived in good order yesterday. Nice ties.
  6. @caloosa bug Exactly. Been tying Steve’s Myakka Minnow for both fresh and salt work for about 6 months now. Salt versions were killers on Specs down in Tampa last December. Hope to do some more damage with them in the next two weeks on the IRL system and Tampa Bay.
  7. Absolutely unless you tie into a large Trevally. The last time I fished the Makaha coast I used a 7 weight with either a full sink or sink tip line and deceivers. short, stout leaders with 30# + bite tippets. A lot of reef fish have choppers.
  8. Apart from the flats opportunities for Bonefish, the best shore bound opportunities lie along the Makaha coast from Barber’s Point on the north side of Malakole Harbor north to Makaha. Lots of shore access, both beach and rocky points. Good opportunities for small trevally and other toothy reef fish.
  9. It common knowledge that fish that feed on baitfish tend to key on the eyes of their prey. So whimsically, I tied a couple of flies that accentuate the eyes. IMG_0264.MOV IMG_0263.MOV
  10. Another hack to make helicoptering wire easier it to tie off the wire parallel to the hook shank. With Br and Medium wires, they tend to float above thread wraps no matter how tight you make them. Solution, after completing your wire wraps, wrap and additional two wraps on the shank that would normally be covered with thread wraps. Then fold the wire back parallel to the hook shank and take a few tight wraps. Now, the wire can’t float and will helicopter off easily.
  11. If you are talking purely about Mayfly duns, you are probably correct, even with attractor patterns. However, once you need to fish Mayfly spinners, wings are essential. Additionally its rare to see an adult caddis or stonefly pattern without a wing element.
  12. The method of tying in your bugger hackle can impact the length of hackle fibers relative to the body proportions. Two techniques are commonly used. 1. After tying in tailing materials, tie in your hackle by the tip. All hackle feathers (especially capes) are tapered from tip to butt. After tying in the tip, wrap your body with chenille or dubbing and leave the thread behind the hook eye. Wrap your hackle forward and tie off. This will give a slightly taper hackle apprearance. 2. After tying in tailing material, tie in a piece of small wire. Then wrap your body forward with chenille or dubbing. Just behind the hook eye tie in your hackle by the butt end (trim to an appropriate length for the body size. The objective is to have the hackle tip be close to the end of your body wrap). Wind the hackle back toward the tail leaving the thread behind the hook eye. Counter-wrap the hackle with the wire back to the hook eye. Whiting bugger packs have a good selection of hackle ideally sized or buggers. This bugger was tied with a Furnace bugger pack hackle from the tip over a mylar body.
  13. Flies are in the post this morning. 1 dozen Foam Stimulators.
  14. Count me in. Foam STIMULATOR Foam Stimulator Hook: Firehole Stick 718 #8 Thread: UTC 140 Fluorescent Orange Tail: Bleached Deer Hair Body: Yellow Fettuccini Foam palmered with Silver Badger hackle Wing: Bleached Deer Hair Thorax: Orange Fettuccini Foam Hackle: Lt Ginger
  15. George, Over the 55+ years I've tied a lot of flies for both trout, warm water species and saltwater. Whenever I want to embark on a new pattern that I haven't tied before, especially if it is somewhat complex like the Royal Wulff, I try and get my hands on a well tied reference copy. Photos and You Tube videos are great, but having a properly tied, properly proportioned fly in-hand does wonders for helping you tie a better fly. Try and replicate that reference fly in as much detail as possible, then branch out with your own style as you see fit. If your first attempts don't replicate the reference fly, keep trying and researching info on the tying techniques that will help you solve problematic elements of your ties. Mike
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